I Thought I Was Going to Die...

The true story of an encounter with the wave I thought was sure to be my very last...

Was I about to meet my Maker?

This is a story from long ago, predating my stand-up surfing days.

"Body Boarding on a Winter Day" - Photo courtesy of Christopher Sardegna and http://unsplash.com

It’s a winter day.

No one else is around this morning. Although still a body boarder, I feel I have adequate experience with the sizable and somewhat rough conditions I see before me now. The waves are really large, head-high or more, and breaking quite abruptly at "warm water jetty."

I head out anyway, quietly confident in my skills, and even more so in God’s careful watch over me.

I manage to catch a few waves, but then notice that the current is moving me gradually north. Am I worried? No, I can always walk back along the beach if I have to.

I’m on the north side of the jetty now, working my way out through the pounders after enjoying a good ride. I can hardly wait for the next one.

Suddenly, seemingly out of nowhere, a huge swell pops up right in front of me.

There’s no place for me to go, and not even an instant to catch my breath. The massive wall of water slams me hard. I suddenly find myself tumbling, out of breath and out of control in the cold and dark.

"A Big Slammer Pops Up Right In Front Of Me" - Photo courtesy of Austin Schmid and http://unsplash.com

As a rule I don’t panic in situations like this; but I’m caught so completely off guard and unprepared. The tumbling won’t stop. I don’t know which way is up, and I become more and more desperate to breathe. Seconds seem to stretch to minutes.

"God! Where are you?"

Is this it? Is this how I’m going to die? Lord, how could you end my life like this? What about my family?

Terror seizes me, colder than the winter ocean, as hard a steel hand, squeezing and twisting my heart. How could my God do this to me?

Just as I am about to abandon all hope, the powerful vortex releases it’s grip on me. Moments later, my head breaks the surface. I suck in great, shuddering gulps of air, and strike out towards shore.

I am filled with remorse.

I feel deeply ashamed of the cowardly, witless thoughts that posessed me just moments ago.

O, Lord! Please increase my faith! When my time does finally come, won't you please grant me the grace to trust in your lovingkindness without question?

"The massive wall of water falls hard..." - Photo courtesy of Tim Marshall and http://unsplash.com

Some went down to the sea in ships,

doing business on the great waters;
they saw the deeds of the Lord,
his wondrous works in the deep.
For he commanded and raised the stormy wind,
which lifted up the waves of the sea.
They mounted up to heaven; they went down to the depths;
their courage melted away in their evil plight;
they reeled and staggered like drunken men
and were at their wits' end.
Then they cried to the Lord in their trouble,
and he delivered them from their distress.
He made the storm be still,
and the waves of the sea were hushed.
Then they were glad that the waters were quiet,
and he brought them to their desired haven.
Let them thank the Lord for his steadfast love,
for his wondrous works to the children of man!
Let them extol him in the congregation of the people,
and praise him in the assembly of the elders.

- Psalm 107:23-32

I hope you've enjoyed my surfing story.

Thanks also to my faithful followers for reading, upvoting, and following me. I write this stuff for you, and without you to read and appreciate it, I wouldn't be here at all.

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I have very eclectic interests and hope, over time, to write about all of them.
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