Vardø – The city of witchcraft in Norway
During my visit to the north-eastern part of Norway, I went to several small towns. One of them was Vardø. It turned out to be an interesting visit in many ways. This small town has a magnificent piece of modern achchitecture and artwork created in 2011 as a memorial - the Steilneset memorial. Vardø is also the world's northernmost fortified city. The fortress was built in 1300 and has a history closely connected to the memorial which is a tribute to the 91 people who were convicted of witchcraft and burnt at the stake between 1600 and 1692.
Vardø
Vardø
Vardø is the easternmost city of Norway and situated on an artic island in the Barents Sea. During the witch hunt ot the 17th century, Vardø was the town which had the highest number of convictions and executions for witchcraft. People have always been afraid of the unknown, of monsters and of people they did not understand. Stories of witches and their fears have led men to commit the most terrible crimes. There are countless stories around the world. It just did not come to my mind that this happened in such a remote place.
This artinstallation was a collaboration between architect Peter Zumthor and artist Louise Bourgeois. It consists of two buildings. The first one is a 125 metre long structure.The second is a glass structure, which houses the work of Bourgeois. The memorial is placed on a piece of barren land along the ocean. When windy, the wind can be felt and heard not only outside the memorial, but also within. The location in these natural surroundings is quite spectacular. I was here in summer. No wind, but my companion told me what it sounds like when windy. I could easily imagine how that will add a much more dramatic effect to a visit!
The first building is this 125 metre long, narrow structure suspended from an exterior wooden frame. When you enter, you walk along a dark hallway with 91 plaques for the 91 people convicted and burnt. Along the hallway there are 91 small windows with bare light bulbs providing minimal illumination. On the wall, on each plaque, you can read the individual stories of these 77 women and 14 men – the name of each one of them, accusations against them, confessions and convictions. It is impossible not to be touched when you read the dramatic stories. To read these stories is an important reminder of injustice and how it affects a community.
The glass structure is an amazing piece of art. Bourgois made a chair, from which a fire burn. Big mirrors are placed in a circle around the chair. When looking at the mirrors you will notice they are not flat but distorted. This was done to remind us that the point of view of those who judged and killed these people was altered.
Steilneset is a dramatic place in itself, but right next door is Vardø fortress. The fortress was the place where most of the convicted witches were burnt to death. Well worth a visit too. The location of the memorial next to the place where they were burnt, is well chosen I think. It connects the history of the past with the present and makes a visit complete.
The memorial seen from the fortress
A visit to Vardø might be on a road less traveled to most people because of the remote location, but it is a place that highligts the dark days of the witchcraft trials in Northern Norway, as no other place in this country. If you are interested, it is open 24 hours, all year round and there is no entrance fee.
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Wow. I didn't know that the witchcraft burning madness had reached so far up North.
That sounds like a very cool experience. What took you there, in the first place? And how did you get there?
I did't know that either! not until I was there..I was visiting a friend. Stayed with her and we drove to some very unique and interesting places! She told me the story of the witchcraft trials and the memorial. So we went to see it. Vardø is almost in the oposite end of our long country - I live in Kristiansand in the south. took almost a day to get up there!! Had to go to Oslo first, change plane. Then to Tromsø and then Vadsø...and each time the planes got smaller and smaller.... but visiting that part, made me want to see more. It is so diferent from the south. But a flight ticket to Spain...or Italy will be cheaper!
Such a big country, that makes Portugal look really tiny. I can cross it by train, North to South, in an afternoon. 😂
So, is it Vardø or Vadsø? And what's up with the words ending in a zero?
hehehe...I need a whole day to cross mine! and that by plane...It can be done by train, but that will take several days!! both Vadsø and Vardø are small towns in that north-eastern corner. Vadsø is where I ended my flight. From there we drove to Vardø.... you know, in our alphabet we got the letters " æ, ø and å" ...
Over the years, Portuguese has ditched many of the weirdest things. Like the word Pharmacy. It used to be Pharmácia, but if that Ph is an F, why don't we simply use an F? For decades now, the word has been converted to Farmácia.
We still have weird things... Like a S before an I is read as a Z. I don't get why we can't simply use the Z. It's there for something.
hehe...I agree. Why not simplify when the sound is F...or the Z...similar things happens to our language as well! But languaged changes. It developes. Quite interesting though.
Wow what a cool place to visit! It's beautiful and haunting. I can imagine the weight of what had happened there so long ago still being palpable. The witch trials were so terrible. I think we as a species are still recovering.
Great post!
Thanks! I is a very special place. Hard du describe. It is a beautiful piece of art, but somehow feels out of place because it is found off the main road in such a remote place.
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