Iran or ancient Persia is a country that has a lot more to offer than what we get on the news media. It is a country of great culture, delicious food, warm-hearted people and breathtaking landscapes.

Azadi Tower in Tehran

Around the mid-90’s, my mom and I followed my dad on his three-year diplomatic mission to Teheran, Iran. I was on the verge of celebrating my sweet sixteen, experiencing mixed feelings of excitement and dread. Once again, it was time to hit the restart button on my life and move to Iran.

Life of a diplomat in Iran

My family and I got help settling in Teheran by the Mexican Embassy and our “personal chauffer’’ named Amine. Considering that Iran was flagged as a “country at high risk’’ by Mexican authorities, having a chauffer was mainly for security purposes. However, Amine was more than just a chauffer. He would drive us around Iran like a tour guide and was eventually considered by us as a family member. He introduced us to the Iranian culture through food by bringing us to traditional restaurants, visiting cultural sights, teaching us basic Farsi (knowing numbers is very handy, especially if you don’t want to get ripped off at the bazaar!) and even by meeting his family and close friends to learn about the “real’’ Iran and how it was before the Islamic revolution.

Amine drove me to and from school every day. I attended the French School of Teheran and made friends with the international students there. I blended in pretty well with all the other foreign kids, but I was curious to meet and make friends with local Iranians. And that is how I discovered Iran’s underground culture.

Music

I was old enough to attend private parties (called receptions) held at several embassies, as long as I was accompanied by my parents. At one of my first parties, a group of local mixed-race Iranians was invited and I got to meet some right on the dancefloor! Traditional Persian music was playing and I swayed from side to side as if I had always known how to dance to it. Two Iranian guys and a girl spotted me and thought I was Iranian. They began speaking to me in Farsi. I responded with laughter saying “Sorry, I don’t speak Farsi. Do you speak English, Spanish or French?’’ That night we talked in English and danced to all kinds of music. They told me that they loved listening to what was hot during the 90’s: Grunge and alternative rock, pop and hip-hop. After that night at the party, we shared a lot of music and I eventually got invited to their own “illegal’’ private parties where I got to meet even more young Iranians and dance to 90’s hits.

In the 1990s, young artists began fighting the system, developing not only Iranian pop music but also rock, heavy metal, rap and Persian hip-hop. An underground musical world developed within the country, defying barriers imposed by the authorities. Songs are recorded under difficult conditions, in makeshift studios set up in basements, and musicians run the risk of being caught by "morality police" in frequent raids. If caught, they are accused of "collusion with satanic groups", "immorality" and of being "instruments of the Western cultural assault".

Source: http://www.cafebabel.co.uk/culture/article/underground-music-in-iran-talkin-bout-a-revolution.html

Fashion

Although it wasn’t easy to wear the veil in order to go out in public at first, I got used to it. Since I didn’t have to wear it at home or at school, I didn’t mind putting it on the rest of the time. I found a fashionable way to wear the veil in a variety of bright colors and patterns.
Speaking of, Iranians have a very strong fashion sense. I would see many Iranian women wearing Louis-Vuitton veils (that are actually just longer scarves), paired with Prada glasses. According to the Islamic law, women also had to wear a long coat that covered at least their bum. I had my own selection of fashionable coats bought in Paris, where most Iranian women who could afford style shop as well!. Tehran's streets were also filled with boutiques of luxury-brand veils and coats, a treat only mid and upper-class Iranian women could afford. And where would you think I found more fashionistas? At Iranian private parties where I’d get invited to by some of my local Iranian friends. Women would take off their coat and veil, only to reveal a beautiful Chanel dress!

Photo credit: Stefanie Eisenshenck on Flickr

Iran’s laws closely follow edicts given by strict Muslim clerics who took over the country in 1979. However, before the Shah was removed from power, Iranian culture was quite progressive and Westernized.
Many Iranians who enjoyed considerable freedoms before 1979 never gave up their desire for Western culture and still try to enjoy it behind closed doors. For most of us who perceive Iranians as radical or completely devout, the reality is actually quite shocking.

Source: https://listverse.com/2016/01/14/10-surprising-facts-about-iranian-culture/

Coffee Shops

So you must be thinking, besides private illegal parties, where did young Iranians hang out? Where did I hang out?! Coffee shops. Yup, Tehrani coffee shops were always filled with teens and young adults. It was basically the only public place to socialize besides school and private parties. However, since there is a “morality police’’, we had to be careful to not seem as if we were hitting a cruising bar. Unless you had proof you were married, you weren’t supposed to go “on a date’’ at the coffee shop. Still, coffee shops were the perfect spot for youth in hopes of having a nice chat with friends or maybe even meet someone through a little bat of an eye or by sending a cute message with their telephone number paired with a cappuccino.

Video source: Tehran Cafes by Iran ProgramPress TV

Food

Of course, coffee shops were a hit among young Iranians, but everyone enjoyed going out to restaurants in Iran for a meal. Although my mom cooked frequently, we would go out to dine on a weekly basis. Iranian food is sooooo delicious! Over time, we had our preferred places but were always willing to discover new restaurants.

My favorite Persian dish is Zereshk polo (Barberry rice with saffron chicken)

The food portions were enormous! I could literally make a shish kebab roll down the mountain of rice as if it was skiing on the Alpine slopes and easily feed two with one portion. The spicy aromas, the rose water and pistachio taste in desserts and the warmth of freshly baked barbari bread in the morning were all part of the wonderful foodie experience of living in Iran.

Travelling in Iran

Amine drove us around to discover several cities in Iran. We got to visit Isfahan, Shiraz, Qom, Kashan, Tabriz and the Caspian Sea, among others!. Unfortunately, we did not get to visit the great Persepolis, but I have promised myself I will visit one day.
Persepolis

Here is an overview of “10 Must-See Sights of Historical Architecture’’, by Jessica Stewart: https://mymodernmet.com/historical-architecture-iran/

From museums and calligraphy exhibitions to handmade carpet-weaving factories, treasures await the curious traveler that would like to discover Iran or ancient Persia’s traditional art and culture. I am so grateful to have experienced this!

I can go on and on about other perks about my life in Iran, but I might save some for another day. This being said, I really hope this can be a refreshing view of Iran for you. It so unfortunate to see that many people base their opinion on this country only by what they see in the media. If you have it in your heart to explore Iran and learn about its culture, I totally encourage you to do so! Iranians are so friendly and welcoming. They will make you feel at home the moment you set foot in their country and their friendship lasts a lifetime!