Hanging With The Guys - A True Surfing Story
"It's like the mafia. Once you're in - your in. There's no getting out."
- Kelly Slater, Pro Surfer -
Am I an insider? Am I "in?"
It takes a little while to be accepted as a "regular". After hanging around "Old Man's" for the last five years, I think I have almost made it. At least, the guys I see there most days treat me well.
It takes a while to be accepted.
Image courtesy of Lance Asper and http://unsplash.com
Many of the regulars are retired.
"I've got Monday off" I'll say, "it's Labor day."
"We don't get it off anymore" someone will respond, "we're retired."
I see Glen almost every day. He has been a real friend to me. When another friend gave me a used surfboard, Glen gave me an old leash to hook it up with.
"Good work, R.D.!"
My friend R.D. has been bringing his grandson out to surf every once in a while. "Get them started early," that's what I always say!
Dan is a young muscular guy who is a real artist on a long board. I am amazed at the waves he will go for and get. He has a cute puppy dog named Foca, which is Spanish meaning "Seal".
Dan’s dad Keith is a fireman.
His schedule lets him spend some entire days at the beach. He has always had kind and encouraging words for me.
Chave shows up rarely from somewhere up north. He is a Christian and we’ve had some interesting discussions.
Then there’s the kayakers.
They are a nice bunch, many of them active or retired policemen. For the most part there is an attitude of "live and let live," no matter what kind of device you may be riding. Bill even let me use his kayak one day, and, amazingly, I caught a wave and rode it!
"Get them started early."
Image courtesy of Lance Asper and http://unsplash.com
Those are just a few of "The Guys."
I wrote this story some years ago, when we all used to surf at "Old Man's" just south of the Carlsbad power plant.
I wonder how my guys are doing these days?
~FIN~
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I would have to be one of the kayaker! It's my passion and zen place. It's awesome when you can build a community from a common interest. I bet there are a lot of beautiful times had there!
Some amazing times and memories, for sure! :D
These sound like a swell bunch of guys...level headed like. Bet you're glad to be considered "in".
I wonder what it was like for you, and how long you we not "out" but not "in" either,
By the way, great page composition! :)
Thanks for your comments, friend @cryptologyx!
It probably took a while to be accepted because at first I was a "lowly bodyboarder," and not yet a stand-up surfer. I think I felt more "in" after learning how to surf.
Thanks for the compliment on the page composition. Are you aware that you can easily examine the details of such with @ausbitbank's cool "SteemViz" utility? <- Just click the link and enter any Steemit article and you can see the details of the source...
Sounds like you'd finally done your dues and got accepted. It's not easy being "the new guy" especially in something I'd assume is quite territorial. :) And kayaking on the waves! What an interesting idea! I've only done that on calm lakes. :)
Generally it's the "be friendly to make friends" just like anywhere... However, I have found that some of the spots up and down the coast are more territorial... Which is sad. I tend to avoid them for the most part, but even when I do get tempted and go to one, I've never gotten into any serious spat with anyone... Not worth it!
The places I've tended to surf have a really mellow vibe, and I get to know most of the locals by name. :D
That's what I'm more in tune with - a hometime, mellow vibe. No point stressing about the small stuff. The world is big enough...and in your case, there are always more waves. :)
I can drown easily in still water , I cannot imaging to surf in high waves, It may take my life away.
Maybe take swimming lessons? ;)
I give this post two big shakas \m/ \m/!!
You're being too kind to the yakkers, but there are worse things in the water to look out for these days.
Greetings, my new friend @v4vapid, and thanks so much for your comments here.
If by "yakkers" you mean essentially spammy comments, please know that I am presently engaged in @merej99's challenge exercise, requiring some response to all comments. If "yakkers" is something else, please elucidate? :D
While I'm chatting, I want to thank you for curating @matrjoschka's brilliant article about Taxpaying and Terrorism... Although I follow him, I missed that one and I'm so glad you had re-steemed it.
Nice to have "met" you here, and thanks for your support.
😄😇😄
Lol, actually where I come from we call kayakers "yakkers" and I was just making a joke. I have been dropped in on by a 'yakkker' though, and that was no bueno.
Glad you found @matrjoschka's wonderful article. I'm also a big fan of his, and imho he's one of the best writers on the entire platform. I often miss new post from @matrjoschka too and often not able to upvote it which is a shame. I try to make an effort to check in on his blog once a week now.
Nice to meet you too:)
Thanks for the clarification! :D
While I recall some occasional stress between the "yakkers" and surfers locally, it was never bad. I can't imagine being dropped in on by one though, that would be pretty bad... :( Some of those rigs are just too big, heavy, and hard... wouldn't want to get hit by one!
Yeah, I need to make it a point to visit @matrjoschka more often so I don't miss getting to up vote his good work.
Where do you surf?
I couldn't concentrate enough to learn, I would be constantly looking over my shoulder for sharks. Lol
Once you've experienced the joy of riding a wave, you stop thinking about other minor details... like ocean life... ;)
Where I'm from, Australia they aren't minor my friend they are major and white. Lol cheers
Yeah, I've heard of some of the "King Waves" over there! :O
Your photos are amazing! I'm going to have to try surfing some day
Thanks. Actually, the photos come from elsewhere... but the story is mine.
Used to surf a little a long time ago. Never had a chance to surf big waves though.
If you're still near the ocean, it's time to get back into it! ;)
Everyone loves ya hun, anyone who doesn't will have me to deal with lol :)
Thank you, my dear! :D
More than welcome my friend :)
need to try it some time
Absolutely! Make a point of it!
It is worth all the effort... In the queue is the story of how I learned to stand... It was worth every grueling minute of every day of the month + that I struggled to stand up... :D
And, if you do it right - a long board, and a little help from a friend - you can learn much quicker...
If you ever have or can make the chance... Go for it!