I procrastinate best under pressure.steemCreated with Sketch.

in #miniatures6 years ago (edited)

I have been very busy lately with all the exam work , my dayjob and several semiprivate researh projects, which I might post about later when we have something published.

In these periods, when I am very busy, I find myself becoming even more prolific in my creative projects. It is as if I enter a positive feedback loop, where I become very productive for a period. Then usually It is followed by a very unproductive period where I cant even find the energy to go out into my workshop.
Often I become very introvert in these "downtimes" I read a lot, and take it chill. Then after a while I feel ready to start the loop all over. I have made my peace with the fact that I work this way. I actually quite like the change, and I enjoy both productive and chill periods.
A lot of my projects are purely experimental, just attempts to learn new stuff or get smarter, and this is one of those projects

A while ago I had the pleasure to follow a number of posts where @xhi experimented with getting his fdm printer to print serviceable miniatures.
if you want to see how it went, look :
here
here
and here
Go find some of his newer posts and upvote them if you enjoyed his posts.

I have done some succesfull miniature prints based on models made by @katharsisdrill. you can see one of my old my posts about printing a horse in 30mm scale here and @katharsisdrill s post about modelling and (letting me) print a miniature for tabletop roleplay here and another one here
The models made by katharsisdrill were made specifically for my fdm printer. We took several iterations, and talked about how to minimize overhang. The models was also slightly bigger than the 30mm scale I usually aim for. But they came out quite nice. go give @katharsisdrill an upvote too if you liked his posts, and be sure to check out his great webcomics phill from gchq here on steemit or on his own site
These days I mostly use my resin printer for miniatures, since the quality is much better, but I was still curious as to what could be achieved with an fdm printer (fused deposition modelling), and so I decided to try printing the elf spear maiden with the ultimaker.

The model is fairly thin limbed and not very well suited for fdm print. The wall thicknes of the arms and legs are very close to the minimum tolerance of the printer , and the figure as such is "tall" and thin. But i decided to give it a shot anyway.
I used settings as described in a video on this youtube channel The video is fairly long but the boiled down info is:

print slow: use 20-25% slower print speed than the default
minimum layer height that fits the printer. Use the absolute smallest layer height your printer will allow, but make sure it fits the stepper motor (this is geeky but basically look up what someone have listed as the minimum for your specific printer)
print solid. infill should be set to 100%
Print with supports. use supports all over. this will mean you will have to sand the model afterwards, but will help to not get failed prints from breaking, and you will likely have to sand anyways


I did this with my ultimaker, and skipped the sanding to get a better idea of the pros and cons.

When seen with the naked eye, the model looks ok, if a little fuzzy compared to the resin print.
It is much harder to paint because the surface is much more rough. sanding would help here.
it is slightly slimmer, because the slicer make a conservative estimate, so the surface is always on the inside of the 3d models surface. This actually make it look more elegant but is not a good thing, since it is not an exact representation of the model I had made.
it takes longer to print than the resin , both because of the decreased speed, the supports and the solid infill.
smaller details like fingers and some facial details are lost.
On the plus side small horisontal overhangs are handled better. Resin printers may be prone to small amounts of resing solidifying on the underside(overside when printing)

In conclusion: This was not a good model to print in this way. it is far to slim and skimpy. something more solid , like a dwarf or an ork might be better, but for someone like me who own a resin printer, it will always fall out in favour of the resin print.
This does not mean that the fdm printer is a bad printer at all. it is much better for larger things, and if I wanted to print e.g. vehicles I would most definitely use the Ultimaker. it is also much better and faster for my swordfittings -casting -masters


Thanks for reading this. Im EvilHippie, a compulsive creative and jack o' trades. If you want to know more about me, check out my introduction post here

If you like what you see, feel free to upvote, follow and resteem.
If this post is more than 7 days old , consider upvoting one of my newer posts instead.
or you can check out these recent posts
If you are interested in my miniatures, you might also consider visiting my shapeways shop

Killing chickens
Spear maiden

Sort:  
Congratulations This post has been upvoted by SteemMakers. We are a community-based project that aims to support makers and DIYers on the blockchain in every way possible.

Join our Discord Channel to connect with us and nominate your own or somebody else's posts in our review channel.

Help us to reward you for making it ! Join our voting trail or delegate steem power to the community account.

Your post is also presented on the community website www.steemmakers.com where you can find other selected content.

If you like our work, please consider upvoting this comment to support the growth of our community. Thank you.

it came out pretty well, but yeah.. A resin printer's going to walk circles around an FMD when it comes to smooth and slim models like that.

I've never actually checked, is there a different kind fo software involved for Resin printers ?

FMD uses slicers, but what do Resin printers use ?
I'd guess a system that just cuts the model into actual thin slices/outlines per iteration, instead of drawing a path in each slice as the classic FDM slicer does ?

yes the "slicer " is fundamentally different. I suppose it is similar for most of these lcd screen based printers. the slicer makes a stack of black and white png files. these then work as a mask. the laser based resin printer, I assume, are more similar to the gcode files of an fdm printer

Not bad for a 0.4 nozzle. How many insets, top/bottom layers did you put ?

according to the video I should set the bottom layer (or was it the top layer) to infinity. my slicer wouldnt let me make it more than 100 of the total height of the model, and i think i ended up just using 4 or 5 layers top and bottom. insets ? I dont think I know what that is, except I googled it and Kisslicer has a parameter for something called inset

Insets are perimeters: if you have the extruder well calibrated, may be you can put 4 to 5. For the 4 to 5 top/bottom layers, may be it is not enough with this small layer height, you can go safely to twice the amount: the last sculptures I printed it was 8 top/bottom layers with 0.2mm.

You are really pushing FDM to its limits and beyond! :)
With a model this small standard cooling may not be enough. I would suggest adding Z hop after each layer and some cooldown delay. It might give you another tiny bit of extra quality...

thanks . i will try if i can find out how to do that next time.

Coin Marketplace

STEEM 0.31
TRX 0.12
JST 0.033
BTC 64485.37
ETH 3156.53
USDT 1.00
SBD 4.05