Travel Diary: Gilgit-Baltistan Through the Karakoram Highway – May 26th to May 28th, 2024
I can no longer wait...
Life has been full of ups and downs lately, with no sign of stillness. Yet, I've decided to begin my travel diary, and I'm determined to complete it this week. It might take more than three parts to capture it all because such a memorable and extensive journey can't be confined to just a few posts.
So, today's diary covers the period from May 26th, 2024, to May 28th, 2024.
We set off from home on May 26th. Our first stop was in Rawalpindi, the twin city of Pakistan's capital, where we visited some relatives and enjoyed a hearty lunch. Oh, forgive me—I got so excited to write that I completely forgot to mention our destination and the journey we embarked on. So, let me share this beautiful memory with you: it’s the stunning valleys of Gilgit, Hunza, and Naltar that we explored... But more than the valleys, it’s the story of this long journey that I will likely never forget.
Our first proper stop, or rather, our first night stop, was in Shikiari, a little further from Abbottabad. At 806 km (501 mi) in length, the Pakistani section of the Karakoram highway starts at Abbottabad, although the N-35 of which KKH is now part, officially starts from Hasan Abdal (near Abbottabad).
The Karakorum Highway connects China and Pakistan across the Karakoram mountain range, through the Khunjerab Pass, at an elevation of 4,693 metres (15,397 ft) above the sea level.
The highlight of this entire journey was the tunnels... I mean, every time we pass through one, I can't help but feel like a child, bursting with joy.
We spent a night in Shinkiari.
The pine trees there, as suggested by @bambuka, known for their positive energy. I spent quite some time observing them, maybe even having a little conversation. Peace. Yes, if I were to describe this place in one word, it would be peace. After spending a peaceful night, we began our journey the next day. We had been informed that due to dam construction, the road would be blocked at one point, so we timed our travel in such a way that we would arrive at the blockade just as it was opening or about to open.
Well I have already given a detailed account of the hurdles we faced on 2nd day of our travel under tha caption: I witnessed the eighth wonder of the world - The Karakoram Highway, so here's just a quick recap:
On Day 2 of my journey through Gilgit-Baltistan, we traveled the Karakoram Highway—a route I'd always dreamed of exploring. My husband and I drove our new (but second-hand) Toyota Allion, which presented its own challenges, especially with mountain driving. We set off early from Shinkiari, but the day was filled with roadblocks, delays, and a stifling heatwave, making the journey difficult.
Despite these obstacles, including a frustrating five-hour delay, we pressed on, determined to reach Gilgit that night. After an exhausting day, we finally arrived around 1 a.m., greeted by a cool breeze and the comfort of good room service. It was a tough trip, but seeing the lights of Gilgit made every struggle worth it. This adventure, though taxing, is one I'll never forget.
Waiting at the first blockade... It was just a shelter with hot wind blowing from all sides. It was a strange contrast. Snow-covered mountains lay ahead, as far as the eye could see, but there was no sense of cold yet.
The second blockade was more interesting...
At first, we vented our frustration on those responsible for this unscheduled, or rather unexpected, blockage. Our car had overheated, which was causing some trouble with the brakes. The car had already gotten quite hot from standing in the sun for some two hours at the first blockade. And when we finally sat inside, we turned on the AC, and perhaps out of desperation, ran it at full blast. But to cut a long story short, the AC couldn't be kept on while the car was stationary... And then there was the issue of fuel consumption because there aren't any filling stations in the mountains.
So, as I shared in the sneak peek of my blog related to this, we finally got out of the car, and thankfully, there was a small spring-like stream nearby. The evening was approaching, so the air was getting a bit cooler. The kids and I dipped our feet and bottles in the water... The water cooled down a bit, and so did we...
The blockade was lifted after three hours, but now the concern was how to continue the journey in this new place, surrounded by mountains, with the Indus River on one side, in the darkness of the night. The children were with us, and we were getting hungry. Although we had packed plenty of snacks and water as advised by a frequent traveller friend. My advice to you, also, is that if you ever travel on the Karakoram Highway or any similar route, make sure to carry enough food and drinks, especially if you're traveling with children.
It had been nearly 10 hours since we set out in the morning, and we had only covered half the journey. We were both mentally and physically exhausted. My husband was constantly worried about the kids, concerned that they might get too tired. He kept telling them to sleep. After a while, when the kids finally fell asleep, we felt a bit more relaxed. However, the car's brakes still seemed somewhat unreliable. I couldn't tell if it was just anxiety or the new experience of the car's auto transmission brakes. But at that moment, my husband seemed really worried. Our roles were reversed—I was the one putting on a brave front, reassuring him repeatedly that everything would be alright. We had no phone service. We had bought an SCOM SIM card, but the signal was weak or not existent in the mountains.
So, we kept moving forward, taking Allah's name and praying. I was utterly exhausted and struggling to stay awake, but there are certain rules when sitting next to the driver—you can't fall asleep.
Every time we passed by a small settlement, we would try to get a mobile signal. Finally, we managed to get in touch with my husband's friend, who is also a traveler, and that brought some relief. It's so important to have good friends in life.
At one police checkpoint, the officer, in a very sympathetic manner, said, "You've really got yourselves in a tough spot today. But don't worry, the road ahead is as smooth as glass." That was a real relief!
We reached Gilgit around 1 AM. It’s a big city. That same friend guided us to our hotel. The internet service was still not working on our mobiles, so even Google Maps wasn’t an option.
I have mentioned in my previous blog:
"Yes, I told you at the beginning, we did reach Gilgit a little after 1 a.m. And it was a beautiful sight. A cool breeze was blowing, and the room service was excellent. We were served a hot dinner and very hot tea afterwards. All is well that ends well."
The next day, we were set to head to Karimabad. When we stepped out of our room in the morning, we were greeted by a breathtaking view that washed away all the exhaustion from the previous night.
You might remember that we were a bit concerned about the brakes, so before travelling further, we found a workshop in Gilgit and had them checked out for our peace of mind. We got a couple of adjustments done to the car and then set off on our journey...
What happened next? Stay tuned to find out, @kozanozdra and all of you!
I may have used some of the pictures previously in another category, but this travel log is unique. I intend to cover my journey chronologically, starting with the first three days of the trip.
the contrast of stifling heat and snowy peaks ... I don't think the sight of snow gave you relief, rather the opposite))
I think the pines have managed to share their energy with you, do not forget about them and about other trees too. They are all alive and can help a good person :)
It's good that we don't have such total heat here... :)
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контраст душной жары и снежных вершин ... не думаю, что вид снега давал вам облегчение, скорее наоборот ))
Думаю, сосны усели поделиться с тобой своей энергией, не забывай про них и про другие деревья тоже. Они все живые и могут помогать хорошему человеку :)
Как хорошо, что у нас тут нет такой тотальной жары ... :)
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Yes, at that moment. It was rather frustrating. ;))
Now that you say it, I think they did. I don't know if I'm a good person or not, but I do think that I benefitted from this experience. So yes, thank you for sharing your wisdom about pines and trees with me :)))
In addition to pines and firs, you have trees that are specific to your land. Try to communicate with everyone and you can feel "your" tree more accurately.
First of all I want to say that your mountains are amazing and the scenery is fantastic. Although I understand that against the background of your adventures, the scenery was unlikely to please you. A trip to the mountains is always full of surprises and it is difficult to prepare for everything in advance. It's good that at least you didn't have any problems with the weather. I can imagine what it was like for you as a mother to go through such a journey, but the story turned out to be very interesting 🙂.
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First of all: thanks a lot for stopping by :))
I write these travel logs for myself and, of course, for valuable readers like you. I'm glad that you enjoyed the pictures. Yes, the journey was exhausting, but the allure of the destination keeps you going. It's not just about reaching the end; it's about embracing every moment along the way, even the challenging ones. Every twist and turn of the road adds to the story, making the destination even more rewarding.
So yes, it's part and parcel of the whole package :)))
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What an adventure… judging from the write up, it seems your husband is driving towards your destination for the first time with the aid of google maps and his traveler friend??
I don’t think I’ll be able to have such courage going with the family on such trip with my family. I will rather go with a guy for the first time to get familiar with the road!
Thank God, you didn’t sleep off with the kids because that morale support was very vital especially during the dark hours
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Well, Google Maps wasn't even an option! He had traveled there before, but only by air. :)
This was indeed a daring trip, and I could sense his worry when we were delayed by all those hassles and blockades. But these challenges make for great stories—if you live to tell them! ;)
You should try something like this...
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I can only try such daring trip with a guy alone. But with a lady, a million and one things will be going through my mind because I would not only be worried for my life, I’ll also be worried for the lady as well…
That’s why I love the fact that you put up a brave front for him and also encouraged him because if you had panic, he would loose all concentration thinking about you and the kids at that moment
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This travel diary instantly reminded me of my own experience. That's what we do, relate everything.
It feels like Gilgit is not in Pakistan but in another world. Not matter how much you travel, the journey seems to never end. The beauty of that place is that the views instantly make you forget all the blockades, smelly brakes, lack of telecommunication and no-life areas.
Karimabad!!! My favourite. Can't wait to read more.
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I agree with you on this relatability. You were the perfect source for all those highlights and insights during the trip. I remember calling you from there, feeling grateful to have someone who had already visited and could guide me through the experience. It made a huge difference having you to discuss the little details that only someone who’s been there would understand. Your own stories brought the place to life even before I arrived, and having that connection made the journey even more meaningful. I kept reminiscing your words...
I know that you love this place. Hence the phone call from there. Stay tuned for the next part :))
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Reading your post I imagine what you're saying and I look at the photographs, the environment is very pleasant but you mention the heat, air conditioning and so on, so somehow everything conspires to make what we see very pretty, but what we feel not so much, let's say that this is what happens when we travel for many hours and more with children, who by the way you mention very little, which means that they endure all this calmly, something that obviously helps, I will comment on what follows and the rest, I follow the trip with you virtually
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Kids are sitting in the water on the second blockade. There's one more, but she is out of the frame. They're not very young, but they're still kids.
The journey is undeniably long and exhausting. At a certain point, the mountains can start to feel overwhelming, especially when you're driving through them for an extended stretch. But it's the allure of the destination that keeps you going.
That's flattering. I'm ever so thankful :))
well done)))
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Gracias
Thank you, friend!
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