New Home for a Young Cherry Tree [Bonsai]
Hello bonsai enthusiasts! Check out my latest article as I work on my cherry tree. It has grown so quickly, I think you will be amazed with the results. In this article I will be showing you various stages of growth, how to prune the roots, type of soil to use, and how to arrange the tree in the new pot. I'll also share some information about why bonsai roots are designed a certain way, and why the pot is so wide and shallow in bonsai.
For beginners, this information can be quite valuable, and for masters, they know that I'm barely scratching the surface of true bonsai design.
Everybody is always welcome to comment here. Ask questions and provide constructive feedback. Make friends and connect. That's what we're all about.
Historical Details of this Tree:
ID: 0024
Nickname: Soda Pop
Type: #Cherry
Age: 9 months
Grown: cutting from branch
Last repotting: On the day of these photos, November 9, 2018.
Read this article, to learn about the origins of how I started growing this tree.
First it was grown in sand and rocks until it rooted.
Then it was put into a pot with a more moisture rich, soft compost and coconut coir. This gave it a chance to be nourished with many nutrients and extra moisture to promote more root and leaf growth.
In November, I decided this tree would do better if I transferred it to a bonsai style pot, with better bonsai soil.
After removing the tree from the pot, I was pleased that it came out in one piece, and not roots were damaged. The roots look very healthy to me.
In bonsai, I'll be removing the longest roots coiling around the bottom, and use a wider pot with rocky soil to promote more branching of roots out to the sides.
A perfect root system would have thick roots spreading out in a radial shape in all directions from the trunk, and head out sideways until they hit the edges of the pot. Along those main roots, smaller feeder roots are allowed to grow. This can take many years to develop, but it will provide a growth system that will support a healthy tree for possibly many generation.
The soil on the bottom of the pot may develop a pale sheen, such as this. Fungus and bacteria will often form in the soil where it is dark and moist. As long as the fungus and mold is not rotting the roots, it actually helps benefit the roots by feeding beneficial nutrients and sugars in a form the tree can readily use.
I raked out the soil and pruned off the long root that was coiling around the base. Not very much root was removed, in truth. With all of these side roots clustered around the trunk, this tree already has an excellent growth system in place to sustain it. Some of the center roots are already showing signs of thickening, to build the makings of a future nebari. The hardest part will be pressing down all of the valuable top feeder roots so they do not lift above the soil level. The soil level will be made to match the height of the thickest top root touching the trunk, so they are slightly exposed.
This is the pot the tree will be going into. It is best to arrange the screens over the holes and arrange the wires before working on the tree. The worst is to have an unready pot after trimming the roots, and then the roots get dried out and weakened by the light and air while getting the pot ready. So make sure you get the pot ready first. Wires are necessary to hold the tree tightly into the pot, because the roots will not grip well for many months in the new loose soil. The wires will attach the tree firmly to the pot, and ensure it does not tip over or fall out.
Here, I arrange the tree in the orientation I think it should be planted. Some of the roots are extending beyond the limits of the pot, so those will be trimmed to fit. I never trim long roots completely off. That would be quite unnecessary. Leave them as long as possible so they extend just to the width of the pot. Any roots that criss-cross or get folded should be stretched out so they lay straight, and trim off the excess.
Fill the pot with good porous bonsai soil if you live in a wet and climate like mine. I tend to over-water my plants, so this ensures that they will never drown or rot, because it will have excellent drainage and lots of humidity around the roots. For this tree I used 100% horticultural pumice.
During the winter, this pot will be mulched heavily with coconut coir and bark chips, to protect from drying, cold wind, and to add extra layers of warm moisture against the pot.
Here is the finished result.
Looking forward to seeing what this tree will do next Spring. I think it will continue to be a fast grower. Who knows? Maybe it will make flowers and fruit some day too.
Photos in this post are all #originalworks by @creativetruth, unless stated otherwise.
Find me on discord and chat with other tree growers, bonsai enthusiasts, and gardeners. We have quite a few accredited experts filling out our ranks, and a helpful Spanish-speaking community.
Bonsai!
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Ever since the first Karate Kid movie I have found bonsai fascinating. Sometimes I think about growing one, but have never undertaken the challenge. Your post was wonderful in explaining the process and giving good tips.
Can you share the measurements of this tree now and how large/small you plan to work it to?
Can you suggest what might be the simplest tree to start with? I live in North America.... So preferably one that would be available here.
Thanks so much!
Peace
Usually my trees stay about the size of a dinner plate, unless it is a fast grower. They are easier to work with and maintain for my needs. I think this tree is close to 8 inches from soil level to the top of the tree. Cuttings are usually best if chosen from a piece the size and thickness of a pencil with buds on it.
Most people suggest Juniper and Chinese Elm as good starter trees, but I think they are harder to grow because they are not native to my area. Juniper is the hardest for me to grow, but others claim it is easy. I think it has to do with the climate you live in. I recommend going against traditional bonsai wisdom, and choose a tree that grows very easily in your native land, something that grows almost like a weed everywhere.
I chose curly willow as my first tree to learn how to grow, and later on I started growing pussywillow, which has better small leaf size and branching. Nobody sells these trees. I just went to a florist (in Jan/Feb for pussywillow) and started with the flowering branch cuttings they sell. They root so easily in a vase of water, and it is good to learn how to propagate the tree from cuttings before you start with an already mature tree. Beginners often have to start over and grow a new tree because they make many mistakes on their older tree. Forsythia is also surprisingly easy to grow from a cutting, and it is considered a nuisance tree by many people, yet it has the most wonderful flowers in the spring that last for a few weeks. None of theses are traditional bonsai trees. Maple is also a good choice, and for bonsai they recommend Trident Maple and Japanese Maple.
Most deciduous bonsai prefer some tree cover for shade and to have the soil always well-drained, but wet. Conifers usually prefer the soil to dry out slightly before being watered, and can tolerate more full sun. I grow Douglas Fir trees, and they prefer lots of rain, humidity and morning mist.
Awesome suggestions and tips! Thank you!
Willow are super easy to propogate...as you say! You can even use 'trash' from trimmings/cuttings from willow to make a tea or drench to help start roots on other tree's cuttings!!
We have a Japanese red maple as an ornamental tree in our front yard, and I have to trim it from time to time. Next time I will plan to keep a couple cuttings and experiment!!
Thank you!!
I'm sure this fellow will grow into a strong bonsai as you give it the best care it could wish for. A silly question - if this is a cherry tree, do you expect some cherries on your bonsai? I've seen bonsai carrying mandarins if I'm not mistaken so I wonder if you plan to enjoy some cherries ;)
I struggle to keep my normal plants alive so I would not dare to go with a bonsai :)
Thank you for sharing!
Oh I really hope so. The mother tree this cutting came from was actually making cherries that I thought were sweet enough to eat, and it had beautiful burgundy red leaves. Let's just call it a bonus if this tree makes edible fruit.
The best thing about bonsai cherry trees is actually the flowers. They often appear in Japanese ink paintings with a bird. I used to call them "popcorn trees" when I was kid, because they are loaded with so many pink blooms in the Spring before the leaves form.
I know what flowers you are talking about :) They are beautiful! Oh, and what a sweet name you gave them :) I will remember it and call them like this too :)
Great, detailed, informative post. I like the shape of the cherry tree with the one main branch. It will be fun to watch this one grow next summer
Yeah, so far that is all natural shape without any pruning. The original cutting was snipped on both sides, so it must have sent all growth out through that one single branch to become the new central leader.
My apple trees seem to do the same thing. The strongest node get the most growth, and one node under the branch forms a new branch. If top branch dies, then it becomes the new leader.
Thanks again for picking the cool name for this tree. It still very much resembles a soda straw.
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STOPI love #bonsai and am sad to say that I had a few die recently because in the rainforest where I live, the land owner got a tree looper in to clear branches that were shading my solar panels. I was about to leave for a few weeks in Bali and when I returned the additional sunlight had killed three of my developing #bonsai. I am only now growing some new seedlings and one cutting to replace them. I really love your photos you take as you work, it all looks very professional. You have inspired me to take some photos while I am pottering around in the garden, it’s a good idea.
Yes, thank you for the nice comment. I have a lime tree that I am not sure is going to make it. I think the transition indoors dried it out too much because the house heater removes all the humidity. Maybe I will start over again with a new seed.
It is so easy to take photos on bonsai projects. Without all the photos, I feel like I would be working blind. People leave me helpful advice, and I get to look back on all my progress over the years. It is like having a hundred wise masters looking over my shoulder and appreciating my progress, instead of hiding my hobby all to myself.
“ a hundred wise master looking over your shoulder at once” Just love that!
This post is so helpful, I've being always intrigued by the art of bonsai trees, they look so delicate that I'm always afraid of making the first steps lol perhaps with this as a guide I'll find the courage!
What I really love is after the first tree, people begin to notice and also take an interest. You might find that people want to suddenly gift you with free bonsai trees they can't take care of, or they might give you trees and pots for your birthday.
Wow, that cutting really took off! Those are some impressive roots for just one season.
Definitely. One of my fastest growers to date. Never knew cherry trees are such aggressive growers from cuttings. Must have been the perfect time of year, Early Spring.
It's the first time I see a bonsai tutorial. The destination is something incredible, days ago I ask the price of a bonsai tree - 10$ - . I already knew that they have to be treated with extreme care, almost like having a baby ... this is a good post for anyone wishing to have a bonsai. like me
btw I live in Venezuela
Much love to you and your people in wonderful Venezuela. $10 would be cheap for a bonsai tree where I live. In your country I know caring for small trees and plants can be an expensive endeavor because the water is so valuable. Glad to have you here.
What happens is here in Venezuela we live in an economic crisis. we have hyperinflation 10 $ is not much. but a minimum monthly salary is like 8 -9 $ ... draw your own conclusions....
This is a very helpful tutorial @creativetruth! I love bonsais and I am always amazed how cute they can be! How do you keep the plant small? Is it by cutting the branches, short and trimmed? And can any plant be turned into a bonsai?
Douglas Fir is a tree I am learning a lot from, because it does not grow the same as other conifers.
It's all about the little buds that form along the branches. Any time the branch forms buds closer to the trunk, I try to nurture those to grow, and cut back the longer branches back to the last buds. Otherwise the branches become too long, thick, and straight.
When the buds open, the needles that first open out can also be clipped to half their length, and this causes a shorter branch to form from the bud.
When new buds form, I pick off all the buds forming in undesirable places, like on long branch tips, or aiming towards another branch, and it tends to help more buds to form along the branch, or encourage buds aimed in better directions to swell with life.
The top can usually be trimmed to the height desired. Many buds form on the top branches, because it receives the most sunlight. Having lots of small, dense branches crowning the top of the tree is considered a good thing.
Many plants work as bonsai, but some better than others. An ideal plant makes lots of smaller branches on smaller branches, forms a thick trunk, can be bent and formed, and makes smaller leaves. I've heard of people turning vines and pepper plants into bonsai. I have a Jade plant I keep indoors that is slow-growing and tricky to form new branches on, but I think it will work eventually.
Thank you so much for the detailed how-to @creativetruth. It helps a lot. I have a plant, a Guiana Chestnut that I am trying to keep it as a bonsai but the leaves and getting bigger and bigger and it is getting taller. I am wondering if I should snip off the top so that smaller leaves will grow from the sides.
Branches will probably grow from the leaves if you snip the stem. You can also defoliate the top leaves to encourage buds to form there. If you are really nervous about that, you can cut the leaves to a smaller size.
It is good to learn how often your tree will form new leaves and branches. Allowing it to continue to elongate the stem doesn't teach you very much about the tree's resiliency. Usually right above a leaf node is a good place to trim. Many people clip as short as to the second set of leaves.