Crônicas do Mar + My Actifit Report Card: novembro 7 2018
Quando dei por mim, parecia que desde sempre já estivera em meio às ondas, e naturalmente levar “caldos”, era algo corriqueiro. A analogia mais óbvia é a de se sentir como um trapo de roupa dentro de uma máquina de lavar.
Mas um momento ficou granado de forma indelével em meu espírito: a primeira vez que “cortei” uma onda. Foi um momento mágico. Sem dúvida, uma das sensações mais maravilhosas do universo.
Ser impulsionado pela espuma já é uma tremenda diversão, mas ao deslizar em diagonal pela parede de água enquanto ela vai quebrando logo atrás do teu corpo, isto é; “cortando” a onda.
Te faz alcançar um novo nível, no qual você pode aproveitar toda potencialidade da energia da ondulação, e percorrer distâncias muito maiores e por mais tempo. Uma experiência única que todo ser humano deveria poder vivenciar.
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Hello @pedrocanella, thank you for sharing this creative work! We just stopped by to say that you've been upvoted by the @creativecrypto magazine. The Creative Crypto is all about art on the blockchain and learning from creatives like you. Looking forward to crossing paths again soon. Steem on!