Novi Sad, Serbia - Swimming in the Mother River

Ever since I read the Jean M. Auel ‘Clan of the Cave Bear’ trilogy, I’ve been intrigued by the Danube River, known by the Neanderthals in her books as the “Mother River”. Commencing in the Black Forest of Germany, the Danube meanders through European cities before emptying into the Black Sea.

The second largest city in Serbia, Novi Sad, is one of these cities that have grown up on the banks of the Danube. The initial trading port was first settled in 4500BC on the site of the Hungarian built Petrovaradin Fortress, which overlooks the town on the banks of the river.

Petrovaradin Fortress where the summer EXIT Festival is held

I visited Novi Sad in mid-summer. The humidity was high and thunderstorms were regular. When I discovered it was possible to swim in the Danube I was delighted. There is a two kilometre long beach or “strand” as the locals call it, where everyone goes to be seen and cool off from the heat.

The beach has been here since 1911 with an entrance under the white landmark Liberty Bridge. I followed the obvious beach-goers carrying towels and picnic baskets, down a dusty path adjoining the car park under the bridge and paid 50 dinar (US50c) to enter.

Crowd watching the jet-ski races under the Liberty Bridge

Noise from a jet-ski race near the entrance had a lot of people’s attention. I briefly watched also but then quickly bored of it and wandered off to find a place on the narrow sandy beach.

Frequently placed lifeguards sitting on park benches in towers, watch over the bathers, constantly blowing their whistles to warn those who venture too far out into the swift offshore currents. There was no need to wade too far as the bank drops away quickly from the shoreline.

Finding a space is not too hard near the bridge so I laid out my towel and got my sunscreen out and lathered it on.
Deciding to take the plunge immediately, I rushed into the river diving straight in the cold but welcoming water. It was a murky mix of brown and green yet clean and free of agley. As I floated on my back looking up at the blue sky above, I smiled to myself realising I was in the “Mother River”. Once a much-feared waterway hundreds of thousands of years ago, never did I think I would be swimming in it.

Around me bathers of all ages were playing ball games in and out of the water. Many young children wore arm-floaties of various colours for safety. They giggled and squealed splashing about carefree as their parents watched them cautiously. Attempts at sandcastle making were hopeless with the grey sloppy sand so kids preferred to dig holes and canal the water.

After my fingers became pickled, I returned to my spot on the beach and let the warm sun dry me. A young boy, who had been splashing with friends nearby, stood above me speaking in Serbian. He briskly walked back to the water and his friends while staring at me confused as I replied in English that I don’t understand Serbian.

Every female seemed to be wearing bikinis, including well-tanned, rotund older women. I had on a t-shirt over my swimsuit. A victim of growing up in Australia with the “Slip, Slop, Slap” rule drummed into me as protection from harmful UV light causing skin cancer. Slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat.

Behind the beach was a large, shady grass lawn with cafes, beer gardens and children’s playground. There are also basketball and volleyball courts along with mini-golf to play. When the sun became unbearable I moved over to the lawn where families picnicked. Others were relaxing alone or as couples while sipping on the cheap and very ordinary tasting Serbian beer,’Jelen Pivo’.

In the Balkans all meals revolve around meat and cevapcici is my favourite dish of deliciously spiced minced meat sticks served inside fresh flat bread with raw onions. I choose a kiosk instead of a restaurant or café as I wanted to eat on the lawn.

“Ein Cevapcici bitte”. I ordered embarrassingly in German. I have a bad habit of speaking German accidently in non-English countries. The old man vendor understood and smiled, answering me in German. “Mit Zwiebeln und Jogurt?”

I agree to onions and yogurt. Pleased with myself how my German as a second language came in handy. The cevapcici was not the best I’ve eaten but it went down well after not eating all day and it was 4pm.

After sitting in the shade until my full belly of cevapcici digested, I walked around the paths and noticed wooden changing cabins could be hired out for day use or for the whole summer season. Perhaps there should be more built as they were all booked out.

The Balkan delicacy Cevapcici

As another late afternoon thunderstorm threatened, I reluctantly left the beach and walked back to my apartment making it just before the torrent of rain. I looked out the window at the brilliant lightning display satisfied with how I had spent my day bathing in the “Mother River” like a character from Jean M. Auel’s prehistoric fiction.

Getting there: The closest airport is Belgrade and a bus connection to Novi Sad is available. Regular buses from Belgrade bus station take approximately 1 hour. Train from Budapest. Bus is faster within Serbia than the train system.

Stay: Jo Rooms, Branislava Nusica n. 20, Novi Sad. Excellent value single or double rooms in an apartment with your own TV, mini refrigerator.

Eat: Aqua Doria, ispod Tvrdave, Novi Sad. On the banks of the Danube under Petrovaradin Fortress has a tremendous range of fish dishes.

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All photos taken by myself on a crappy ipod.
Taken from my blog An old post from 2012