FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE OCEAN #2: NEW CALEDONIA - part 1

NOUMEA, BETWEEN ANTIBES AND SAINT-TROPEZ...

Arriving in Noumea via Tontouta airport can surprise those who had expected to land in an island atmosphere, surrounded by coconut trees and vahines. If Noumea were to be compared to another city, it might be Antibes in France. Here is Europe, and Rich Europe. Noumea is one of the richest cities on this part of the world. Everything is overpriced, 4x4s abound in the streets, there are three full-service marinas, architect-designed residences with terraces and sun-oriented, pools, shopping centers worthy of the metropolis, and a local market priced in line with those imported market. Noumea alone brings together more than half of the Caledonian population, the bulk of which is made up of "big salaries": managers of mining companies, officials, retired metropolitans and large caldoches families. The other part of the Noumean is made up of Kanaks who came from "the bush" to find work and money. Some do more or less, others gather in squats around the city or sleep in the streets. The process is on ...

Two or three days will be enough to recover from the trip, visit the city and organize the rest of your visit to the island. The place of the coconut palms where the city cultural events are organized, the market, the ports, the beaches, the nautical activities, the aquarium, the stores of souvenirs, the enthusiasts of the French Riviera will find many points of reference there.

THE WESTERN COAST, DIVERSITY OF LANDSCAPES AND HISTORY CALDOCHE ...

Once the route has been established, the car rented and the stops organized, it is time to go and discover the wonders of this big "Caillou". And marvels, there are! "Diversity" would surely be the most suitable qualifier for this language of land of 400kms long by 50kms wide. The west coast, under the prevailing winds, is the driest. Barely out of the Noumean agglomeration, landscapes of valleys, ranches, mangroves and tropical beaches begin to follow each other. Thus Saint Vincent Bay is surely the perfect example. In a few hundred meters the decorations go completely. From the dry savannah of Ducos Island where a few herds of wild horses graze on the remains of a disappeared lake, will follow the green mangrove at the mouth of the river Ouenghi and the tropical funds of the marine reserve of the islet Tapeworm.

Continuing the road to the north some vestiges remind that New Caledonia was like other DOM-TOM, a land of prison. Fort Téremba remembers to its visitors the origins of part of the current Caledonian population. Sent to the penitentiary by Napoleon III, the most deserving received their lots of land and settled in family. Families always and more than ever implanted on the pebbles, the caldoches.

A few kilometers further Bourail and its famous "breakthrough rock" is the occasion of a stop for a few steps along the coast. A superb landscape leading to beaches where surfers have found an excellent playground. Until the north of the island, small towns born of mining and livestock activities succeed one another.

The tribes are numerous. The opportunity to visit them and proceed to what is called here "The custom". Originally a small ceremony of presentation and politeness of the visitor to the customary chief, this act takes in Caledonia more and more the turn of the purchase of a ticket of entry into the tribe. "The offering" well defined a nice fabric (5 euros) that completes that of a small ticket of 1000 francs (about 10 euros) is now requested by the chef. Tradition and profitability quickly found common ground in some tribes. For others, fortunately, the custom has remained a simple politeness that it has always been.

To follow, part 2, on Wednesday...!

Photography and text copyrighted ©Marc ALLARIA - www.photo-sousmarine.com

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