My first night at the Bunan indigenous tribe village

in #taiwan4 years ago (edited)

After a two hour drive we finally arrived at my destination for the Christmas weekend. My first impression was "Am I still in Taiwan?" I was, and I was at Fengqiu, an indigenous tribe village in central Taiwan.
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THE INDIGENOUS TRIBES IN TAIWAN

The indigenous tribes have been in Taiwan long before the Han people from China arrived over 400 years ago. Later, when the missionaries arrived in the mid 19th century, they introduced writing and religion to the indigenous tribes. Around 70% of the indigenous people are Christians now. The indigenous tribes form about 2% of Taiwan's population and the Bunan tribe is the 4th largest of the 16 tribes recognised by the government.


BUNAN VILLAGE

One of the Bunan tribe village is called Fenqiu, home to 373 indigenous people. This is where we would be staying for the weekend. We parked outside our host's place, and there was a party going on. I later found out regardless of the time of the day, they always seem to have some sort of gathering outside people's home here. There was never a dull moment in the village.
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OUR ACCOMMODATION

Our hostess took us over to our accommodation. It was at the community building next to the church. Being in the village, everything was basic, but that was fine. There were four bedrooms and 2 toilets between 15 of us 😄
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Two of the room are normal one with beds, hubby and I stayed in one of them. The other two are Japanese tatami style where everyone sleeps on the floor. This is quite common in economical accommodation in Taiwan so you can sleep as many people as you feel cozy with. The girls slept in one of these rooms and the guys in the other.

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MY FIRST NIGHT IN THE VILLAGE

By the time I got into bed it was around midnight. I didn't really get much sleep that night. The people in the house outside was up all night chatting. The gates squeaked as they went in and out. Dogs barked and cats meowed, their sounds rippling gently across the quiet village. And you know the most weird sound I heard in these early hours? Don't worry it's nothing spooky. It was a rooster crowing at one o'clock in the morning!!

It was actually quite comforting lying there listening to the rural sounds, as opposed to the occasional traffic passing by my bedroom window back home. Gradually I dozed off.
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THE NEXT MORNING

Very soon I was woken up by the others getting up. When you have 11 people using two bathrooms at 4am in the morning, things can get quite chaotic.

The reason we were up at this time of the morning was to attend the Christmas service. Normally, the Christmas mass is held on Christmas eve. In Taiwan, Christmas isn't a public holiday so the Christmas celebrations in the village are held in the preceding weekend. As to why the Christmas service is held at 4am in the morning and not midnight? I was told it's to accommodate the elderlies who are early risers. Fair enough.

So we walked across to the church. The service had already started, but since none of us were Christians, we waited outside quietly listening to the choir sing. It was beautiful and I felt very peaceful, even though I was not religious at all.
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Whilst waiting for the service to finish I browsed around the lobby area. It was obvious this was a place that was very important to the villagers. Many trophies were on display, and there was a big image of the bunan tribe with the words Jesus loves Bunan in Chinese. The Roman letters at the top should be the same message written in the tribe language. This is again thanks to the missionaries who helped the indigenous tribes to develop a written form of their tribal language which did not exist before.
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Someone from our group starting giving out candles. They were really thoughtful and had prepared cardboard candle holders. From here, my morning continues in my video below. I have shared this video previously where we walk around with the village for carol singing.
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You can't actually hear any singing during the walk as our group was quite far back from the core group. The first part of the singing you hear in the video is from the morning service in the church, and the second part is recorded live outside the church after the walk. The video ends with a spectacular firewalk display. By the time the events had finished, it wasn't even six o'clock yet, but we had all experienced a very special Christmas.

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Man, you guys are pretty hardcore travelling and sleeping in that style of accommodation, followed by being up at 4am for Church! A little different to your days in Marlow hey 😃

But it sounds like a very different and special way to enjoy your Christmas, the fireworks display is amazing at the end, that should wake you up if nothing else!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Ha ha! The accommodation is not a problem, I'm sure many backpackers have slept at even more errhh challengeing places 😅. But as to the 4am thing, that's definitely a tough one, if it was just the two of us we probably would have given it a miss, but when you're in a group there's a bit of a pressure. Really glad I went though, it was so worth the experience, especially since I love fireworks

Haha I think you might be right about the backpackers bit!

Yes being in a group adds another dimension of "peer" pressure to go to see and you can all feed off of each other's vibes to get out of bed and go for it! Then you can sleep later!

You're right about that Nicky, we all went back for a nap at 6am before we started our day again!!

Haha, I wouldn't have expected anything less!

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Perhaps one of the most important beginnings for eco-living, harmony and a more collaborative, less destructive way forward on Planet Earth is to see how one another lives - to visit - to learn. I'm curious as ot how much of the indigenous way of life is left after the missionaries hav had their way....? Would love to see you write more about the natural-tribal-traditional way of life of the Bunan people.

Taiwan is also very beautiful, no? It's on my radar. :)


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It is believed that the tribes have lived in Taiwan for around 5500 years and are part of the Polynesia group. Practical issues such as survival, as well as suppression at the turn of last century meant many of them have assimilated in with the rest of society, but I understand those who live in the villages particularly high up in the mountain still try to keep to tradition as much as possible. Of course this is getting more and more difficult in modern society, but it is something I definitely would like to experience more if given a chance. Personally I feel any fee paying tribe shows or villages may not be that authentic, so will have to see if my friend who organised this weekend away can organise something else in future again.

Taiwan is definitely worth visiting, there is so much waiting to be discovered

I really enjoyed this post @livinguktaiwan. Particularly reading about your perspective of these Christian people celebrating Christmas. I also liked hearing songs with which are very familiar here, being sung in a different language! 😊

This stood out to me:

"It was beautiful and I felt very peaceful, even though I was not religious at all."

😊

We typically attend a Christmas Eve service where we also have candles lit, much as shown in your video. But fireworks? At that time of the morning?! Well, that is not something we do here, but sounded as though all there enjoyed it.

A very special Christmas indeed. Thanks for sharing!

There's a fusion Christmas for you!!

Thanks for dropping by and I wish you a very happy New Year!!

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That's coool! I love tribe stuffs but this doesn't look too tribey at all.. more modern. I went to Wunan when I was there in Taiwan

Yeah this one is quite modern as they're on the lowlands

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Our pleasure, happy 2020!

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I'm glad you had a different experience this Christmas. Thanks for sharing it, it's always nice to read your posts.
Now I just want to wish you a happy new year!

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