藏区骑行60日~第45天「阿里中线第一天，搓衣板上碎石路，藏族羊圈来露宿」Riding in the Tibetan area for 60 days~The Forty-fifth days

今天要开启我们艰难的阿里中线的骑行了，一想到一错再错就令人兴奋。昨晚已在ipad上安装了奥维地图，把沿路的地理数据都下载了下来。看了一下路线，挺复杂的，很多地方都只有路基，据说零几年修的，有些地方还要沿着车辙线前行。为了赶时间，同时怕路上出意外，到不了预定露营点，我们一早就出发了。吃了早餐就出县城，一出县城就是爬坡，快到一个垭口竟然出现一群流浪狗，凶神恶煞的，一直在旁边嗷嗷叫，还要跑过来咬人。果然阿里中线的野狗也比其他地方的兄啊，一来就给我们一个下马威，好不容易甩开，人被吓个半死。狗多力量大，看我们只有两个人，竟然欺负人起来。

Today，we are going to start our tough Ali mid-line riding. It’s exciting to think of it. Last night, I installed the Ovi map on the iPad and download the geographic data along the road. Looking at the route, it is quite complicated. There are only roadbeds in many places. It is said that it has been repaired in a few years, and some places have to follow the rut line. In order to catch up with the time and fear the accident on the road, we couldn’t get ready to camp, we set off early in the morning. After eating breakfast, we went out of the county town. When We went out of the county town, We climbed the slope. As soon as We saw a group of stray dogs, We were screaming and screaming, and We were running around to bite. Sure enough, The wild dog in Ali’s midline was more Fierce than the other places. Once gave us a horse, it was hard to leave, and we were scared to death. The more dog the more powerful. Seeing that we only two people, They are bullying people.

阿里中线路线图

走过狗群，很快就到达了垭口，终于能看到梦寐已久的扎日南木措了，可惜天气很糟，远方乌云密布，扎湖只剩一根线，下次再来吧。下垭口，路烂的很，还在修，据说连接阿里北线、扎日南木措、当惹雍错要开始修公路了，很替当地藏民高兴。真是一错再错，一遇到路口就得拿出地图来看去寻路，一个不小心就会走错路，路线走错的后果你晓得的。

Walking through the dog group, We quickly reached the mouth of the mouth, and finally We can see the long-awaited Zhabei Nanmucuo. Unfortunately, the weather is very bad. There is some cloud in the distance. There is only one line left in the lake. Come again next time. The road is very rotten, still repairing, it is said that connecting the Ali North Line, Zha Rinan Mucuo, is starting to repair the road, very happy for the local Tibetans. A mistake and follow A mistake. When you meet a road junction, you have to take out a map to look for a way. If you accidentally go the wrong way, you will know the consequences of the wrong route.

扎日南木措一线牵

终于离开主路，去往真正的阿里中线分叉路，那个烂，到处是小石子，骑不了。我的车还好，可林哥的旅行车，车胎细的很，遭罪。路上风景不错，时不时有藏羚羊、湖泊、弯弯的河流，后悔没带单反了。这里的天气，也是绝了，一会儿晴空万里，一会儿就下起了雨来，被折腾的不行。这样的海拔，这样的天气，还有那无比的荒凉，让我们爬个100米的海拔差都感觉累的不行。过一条河，就准备翻一个垭口了，在这之前找了地方，补充点能量。一个人找了块石头，坐下来啃买的饼，还有带的熟食，储备能量翻山过草地。

Finally left the main road, go to the real Ali midline fork road, that rotten, there are pebbles everywhere, can not ride. My bicycle is okay, but Lin’s wagon, the tires are very thin and sinned. The scenery on the road is good. From time to time, there are Tibetan antelopes, lakes, curved rivers, and regrets that there is no SLR. The weather here is also absolutely perfect. After a while, the sky is clear, and it rains in a while, and it is impossible to toss. This kind of altitude, such weather, and the incomparable desolateness, let us climb a 100 meter elevation difference and feel tired. After crossing a river, we were ready to turn over a gargle. Before that, We found a place to add some energy. One person found a piece of stone, sat down to eat the cake, and stored energy to cross over the mountains.

藏羚羊

蜿蜒的河流

小湖泊

路上村庄很少，人也很少看见，湖泊倒是多。经过一个小小的未名湖，又开始爬山，还下起了雨，乌云密布，在山谷里，让我们近乎于崩溃。石头超多，简直无法骑行，一直在咬牙坚持。好在是过了这个高地，就一路下坡。下坡好一点，不用使劲，但屁股受不了，第一次体会到下坡也这么难受。到达一块平地，天气也黑了，看到零星有几户人家，我们于是决定在这里露营了。找藏民说好话，他们也听不懂，附近的藏民都来了，也没有能说汉语的。最后手比划着，在一户人家羊圈里搭起了帐篷。藏民还是给我们烧热水，还给我们弄来了一些饭，实在太感谢。虽然很害羞，但淳朴地令人惊讶，这些是超越语言的。晚上睡在帐篷里，感觉到的只有舒心，虽然外面下着小雨。今天第一次体验到了阿里中线的恶劣，但丝毫不后悔，也许时间久了，痛苦都会消失，只留下一路的美景和快乐了吧。

There are very few villages on the road, and people rarely see it. But there are many lakes. After a small unnamed lake, I began to climb the mountain again, and it rained again, and the clouds were dark. In the valley, let us almost collapse. There are so many stones that We can't ride, and We have been sticking our teeth. Fortunately, after passing this highland, it went downhill all the way. Downhill is better, don't have to ride hard, but the butt can't stand it. It's so uncomfortable to experience the downhill for the first time. When We arrived at a flat land, the weather was dark. We saw a few families with sporadic people. We decided to camp here. Find Tibetans to say good word, they can't understand, the Tibetans in the neighborhood are coming, and they can't speak Chinese also. At the end of the hand, a tent was set up in a sheepfold in a family. The Tibetans still gave us hot water and gave us some meals. Thank you very much. Although very shy, it is surprisingly simple that these are transcending language. Sleeping in the tent at night, We only feel comfortable, although there is light rain outside. For the first time day, We experienced the badness of the Ali midline, but We didn’t regret it. Maybe after a long time, the pain will disappear, leaving only the beauty and happiness of the road.

碎石路

今日骑行路线图

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Posted from Steem中文社区 : http://cnstm.org/blog/2018/11/01/%e8%97%8f%e5%8c%ba%e9%aa%91%e8%a1%8c60%e6%97%a5%e7%ac%ac45%e5%a4%a9%e3%80%8c%e9%98%bf%e9%87%8c%e4%b8%ad%e7%ba%bf%e7%ac%ac%e4%b8%80%e5%a4%a9%ef%bc%8c%e6%90%93%e8%a1%a3%e6%9d%bf%e4%b8%8a%e7%a2%8e/

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