Sorry i overlooked that part.
You can see from the pictures, that surfing is something what is in your blood.
I think you need to grow up with it, because a city guy like me, who is brainwashed by movies like Jaws, would not think of doing that.
But i admire who have the guts to do something like that.
And its even more special to do that, while your family is on the beach.
That is practically the good life.
Here is my introduction post with my family.
https://steemit.com/introducemyself/@sinzzer/after-248-posts-aloud-me-to-properly-introduce-myself