Making an axe handle

in #homesteading6 years ago

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Most homesteaders have somewhere an axe with a broken handle. It's a fun project to make your own axe handle that is often better than the ones out of the shop. In the shop the grain of the wooden handle is often not straight. This is because it's made by a machine. The grain should run to the point of the handle. If you make it yourself than it's the red oval part that I marked.
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What type of axe head do you have?

There are many different types of axes from survival to splitting axes. All need different handles. So research which length should be correct for your axe head, use and your body size. Don't sharpen the axe head keep it dull till you've fitted the handle. Otherwise you cut yourself later in the process.

Which wood?

Most dried tough wood is fine for short handles for longer handles you need to have hickory, ash or oak. The best wood is dried inside where the humidity is lower than outside. I've chosen Robinia Pseudoacacia for my short axe handle. It's the only wood that I have available. It's very hard but doesn't have much flex. Split the log with a axe and some wedges. This is better than sawing. With splitting you split across the grain what result in less fibers that are broken.
Now you take the best half and draw roughly the shape of a handle on it. The orange drawing follows the grain but I made it myself easier. It's not a problem for a short handle to not have perfect straight grain.

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Tools needed

If you got an axe and a saw than that's enough to make an axe handle. A knive, draw knive, bandsaw, spokeshave, angle grinder and sandpaper can make the job much easier and faster.

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Fitting the head

If you look at a axe handle you notice that there are 2 different openings. The smallest opening should be the bottom and the biggest opening should go to the top of the handle. Don't mix them up otherwise your handle will never fit.
When the handle looks like it could fit you take the axe head and you check where the handle is to big. With a knife or a rasp you take that part off till the axe head perfectly fits the handle.
Now you take a saw and you saw on the green line. If you have a wooden wedge than saw with a normal saw if your wedge is from iron than use a thin metal saw.
Now fit the head for the last time check you have the correct side of the axe head up and insert the wedge. A wooden wedge can use some wood glue before you insert it. Now hit it with a hammer till it stops going deeper. Don't hit to hard you will break the wedge.

Finishing

Finish the handle with some sanding till it smooth. Not to smooth you need the grip. This is also why you never paint or lacquer a handle. I give the handle a coat of wood oil this will tighten the handle a bit more. Keep the axe dry but outside were the humidity is higher. You don't want the wood to shrink.

Maintenance

An axe doesn't need maintenance, but it requires proper handling. Don't hit the axe head with a hammer, don't use it as a hammer, don't use it as a lever and don't let it sit in the rain or sun all day long. The only exception is a splitting maul that type of axe can often be used as a sledge hammer.
Last but not least. Check the axe head before you swing if it's loose it's dangerous to use.
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I forgot like with every tool be safe. It hurts if you hit your own knee with an axe I promise. :)

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I tried to make a handle but just could not get the hang of it. It was only one time though if I kept on it I would get it done.

Awesome! I have broken a few handles too! Thanks!

A few as a woman ? I never broke one only repaired many!

Yes as a woman, why is that so hard to believe LOL!
I chop wood and haul logs too.
It was a plastic handle on a maul.

That is one beefy looking Axehandle. Great job.

True I like them beefy! I chop a shitload of sticks for the waterheater in summer. That makes my hand tired if the handle is thin.

your hard work today? today I make a sword from a used sawmill iron20180223_173255.jpg

That's supercool and I know it will work. Perfect metal for it.

At that time I did not believe it but after I tried it turned out to work. You've done it before ?

Yes but with a metal rasp. The easy thing about that is that it already has a handle :D

but must be burned for completion. it's probably the hardest thing I do.

It's already hardened so no need. Just use an angle grinder to grind a edge on the rasp and keep spraying it with water so it doesn't get hot.
I don't know how to properly harden steel so I didn't wanna lose the temper.

Guys check this article out. http://www.anvilfire.com/article.php?bodyName=/FAQs/heattreating.htm

Also note that Anvil fire is an awesome site for learning how to work metal and a resource that I have used for years. The other guide is a Machinerys handbook that was published before ww2 as it still had blacksmithing information in it. I want to say 12th edition and earlier.

How I temper steel that I know is high carbon. Knives made from files, saw blades and rail spikes. I heat the entire piece in a forge until it is nonmagnetic. Then depending on the type of steel. ( anvilfire has charts ) either quench in used motor oil or a water borax solution.

After the metal is hardened and allowed to relax to room temprature I use either a toaster oven for small pieces or the oven in the house ( with water quenched steel) to bake it at about 550 to 600 degrees for 2+ hours.

When it is done baking turn off the oven and allow it to cool naturally and slowly. Either by sticking in a sand bucket or just letting the temp drop by turning off the oven.

I will read it looks interesting

I only use 1 tool. later I make a post about it. I invite you to see my post. thank you for sharing my experience with me

Will do, I am interested to see how you finish it out. and with that much saw steel left you can make a couple knives.

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