Franks Surfing Experience: California Love

It all started as a teenager from the Midwest who was taken again through another journey from where he was born.

"Ride The Wave"

Not on water at the beginning but through the air and on land before anchoring down on the West Coast. After my parents divorced, Mom stayed behind while my Dad had flown my brother and I to Southern California to finish out our high school. During high school as a teenager their were many clubs to join. (chess club, photography club, library club, writing club, bingo club, etc) No "Surf Club" that I can recall at my school in the 90's, at least LEGIT ones. However the group of brothers and sisters that took me along their "Surf Trip" and "A Wild Wave" on the weekends and a few weekdays during school hours gave me a new meaning of life...

"Let the Sea Set You Free"

Now I am not saying everyone should ditch school or play hooky...This is simply what cards were dealt to me at the time and especially not being born in this country. If you think about it, I would probably be ditching school where I was born if I had not of made it to America, so it really wouldn't matter where I "Ride The Wave", Right?

"California Surfers"

That was my new club that I had embraced while I was heavily into sk8boarding during that same time which also allowed me to learn how to snowboard as well. Surfing in the morning, sk8boarding during the day, and ended up in Big Bear Mountain California for a evening snowboarding session which we ended up doing all three in that same very day!!! Can't say I can do that again at this point in my life... Those were the days I shall never forget and want documented for my friends and family to read one day. They know who they are.

Many summers passed as I repeatedly go up and down the coast from where it all started. Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) starting from one of the easiest beaches to learn, Seal Beach. After a few months we worked our way up towards Bolsa Chica and Goldenwest. Stopping at Huntington Beach where the U.S. Open of Surfing Competition happens every Summer is where I had felt like I was HOT STUFF! Soo many people around enjoying the sun, sand, and surf. Just beautiful everywhere you looked, I has was hooked! Eventually needed more and more adrenaline over the years which got me to Newport Beach where I had my first failed attempt to try and surf "The Wedge". I was not HOT STUFF anymore, more like a scared chicken as I barely walked away from 5 foot shore breakers. Sand rapidly rising up with the wave beneath your feet is not a pretty sight let alone landing in water, or more like hitting a sand papered concrete! I best move on down the coast passing by a few surf breaks along the way.

Next up was Laguna Beach which is an upper class city with limited surfing spots. Mostly shops, restaurants, and art displays is what I remembered. Can't recall surfing Doheny Beach either, but do remember very well Old Man's Beach, San Onofre! Please allow me to paint a picture. Try to imagine running on a treadmill for almost 2 minutes straight as fast as you can... Now picture me catching an A-Frame shaped wave going Left that never curls over, but with an angled 45 degree ramp that moves in slow motion about 4-5 feet high from top to bottom. Going backside as fast as I can carving and pumping down that wave to catch enough speed to be able to carve and pump back up the wave. Doing all this non stop for at least more than 10 times in one sitting all the way from one side of the beach to the other was not easy, let me tell you. Back and Forth! Back and Forth! Back and Forth! Man, was my abs and calves so so sore after that ride! I felt dead! This was like heaven, never saw that wave or experienced that feeling ever again. Once in a life time spiritual awakening, like my very last breathe! I tell this story all the time, can't ever forget it. My smile must of lasted for days...

"Wave Patrol"

As I was searching for more waves up and down PCH heading out each and every early morning during the summer and even camped out at times, I would pass all these beaches trying to spot the best waves of the day. Calling up my friends to meet me as I was the first one up giving out an actual live surf report since back then there was no "Surfline" or an App! No online live wave forecast no live camera feeds in the 1990's. You had to do your own "Wave Patrol" if you wanted the best waves of the day. I had finally made it to Surf Heaven a place called TRESTLES which is in San Clemente, CA. By far this was the most consistent surf break that had the perfect shape and wave formation that just peeled like kiwi. Mostly due to the rocks and pebbles on the shore verses sandy bottoms that are the norm. The wave has a thin top curl but a nice juicy bottom which allows both speed and slicing or cutbacks, if you can imagine the juice spraying off an orange after taking a bite! That spray is a feeling and sound that you can't ever forget. If I had a to choose my final resting place, that would be it. I found my ANCHOR where my boards and shades rest.

California Love...

To Be Continued...

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Thank you for your time.

Keep STEEM N & SURF N ON,

Frank