游记 - 意大利阿尔巴松露节之旅 | A trip on Alba White Truffle Fair

English version (Chinese version is in following part 中文版本在接下来的部分)

These days, there is a good weather in Italy. It's still warm with beautiful sunshine even it is already mid October now. Nowadays, it is harvest time of truffles. Some friends and me organize a trip to Alba White Truffle Fair.

Since we, @victory622, me and my wife had already been to Alba White Truffle Fair last year, Alba is not a strange place for us. The purpose of this trip is not "Exploration" but "Enjoy". To follow the "Enjoy" purpose, we decide to take a train which will arrive at Alba at noon such that none of us needs to suffer an early get-up.

Due to a foggy morning falls above Turin today, everyone is worried about the weather in Alba. When a wisp of warm sunshine shines into the carriage since the door of train is opened, all worrier has gone with it. What a fine day!

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

The first step which, in the same time, is our main purpose, to eat chestnut. That is strange, right? Even though local truffles in Alba has a high quality, we are still able to buy them in Turin, just with a litter higher price. While we are not able to taste chestnuts from so-called "Iron Hand Chestnut"(Only us call it like that) anywhere expect in Alba. The characteristic of that chestnut shop is that the boss uses his hand to stir chestnuts in a very hot pot to keep them from over-heated. That is the reason why we call it "Iron Hand Chestnut", the boss must train his hands as strong as iron in order to survive in such a high temperature. The boss is a very nice man as well. When he sees us taking photos on him. He takes out a "necklace" and a pair of "wristbands" which are made of chestnuts, wears them on and poses a strong shape to give us a good view for taking photos. Adorable.

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

By the way, I do really appreciate about the paper bag design for containing chestnut with two small bags together, one for containing chestnuts, one for the peels.

After chestnuts, it's time for lunch. There is a Michelin 3-star restaurants in Alba, while it is a pity that it is closed on Sunday and Monday.

^{This photo is taken by @breathewind}

Finally we find a nice restaurant named " Bistrot Duomo". While it only accepts clients with reservation, we have to make a reservation and come back after one hour.

During this waiting hour, we walk around and find something interesting: an old man makes some corn porridge which is similar as the porridge in my hometown, high quality truffles and mushroom, and farinata, a kind of pancake which is made of ceci. It's one of my favourite Italian food.

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

When we arrive at the restaurant on our reservation time, our big dinner begins. All of us order the suggested menu and it really tastes good!

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

When we finish our dinner, there is a costume show in main square, here is a video about that fantastic show.

^{This video is taken by @breathewind}

Next station is Alba White Truffle Fair. The ticket price is 3.5 euro. If you pay a little more, you will get a goblet to taste wines. In the fair, there are a lot of shops selling mushrooms and truffles. There are also some shops selling local wine, honey and cheese. People from all over the world come here to enjoy the tastes of truffles. I see a chef from HongKong. He orders all white truffles from one shop, the boss of that shop is so happy and wants to start a long-term cooperation with that chef. Globalization!

Besides truffles, I would like suggest another amazing sauce "Bagna Cauda". It is a typical Piemente sauce with garlic, anchovy, wine and oven oil. It goes perfect when you eat vegetables with it. I fall in love with it, since the first time I taste it.

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

Before we leave Alba, we buy some nice white truffle sauce from a shop named "Antica Bottega Del Tartufo". Both the boss and his wife are very kind. And if you buy a lot, you will get a discount. Strongly suggested!

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

Finally, we finish our trip on Alba in the evening. In my point of view, I like Alba very much. People in Alba are friendly, full of passion and very professional in business. I like it! If my friends come to Turin in the future, I will suggest them to go to Alba.

2017 Oct 22

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中文版本

今年意大利的天气非常好，10月中旬依然温暖宜人。正值新鲜松露收货的季节，约上了几个小伙伴我们一同去都灵附近的阿尔巴(Alba)的松露节走了一圈，也算作是“秋游”吧。

因为去年已经和妻子还有 @victory622 来过一次，对这个不大的小镇已经有了相当的了解。这一次的主题并非“探索”而是“享受”。我们从一开始就贯彻了“享受”的宗旨，选了一班中午到达Alba的火车，这样所有人都免于早起的折磨。

由于今早都灵的天气很不好，同行的每个人都在担心阿尔巴的天气。随着一缕温暖和煦的阳光在火车车门打开的那一瞬照进车厢，我们每个人心中的担忧也被一扫而光。真是个好天气！

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

第一站我是我们这一行的主要目的——吃栗子。因为就松露而言，阿尔巴的确实很不错，但是阿尔巴的松露是可以在都灵买到的。阿尔巴的这家我们称之为“铁砂掌烤栗子”的栗子，却只有阿尔巴才吃得到(这里的“我们”仅指代同行的4人)。这家的特点就是一个字“野”。老板支起几个煤炉，每个煤炉上面放一个铁锅，纯靠手晃动铁锅来防止栗子烤糊，甚至有时直接上手。“铁砂掌烤栗子”也因此得名。值得一提的是这家老板非常热情，老爷子看到我们在拍照，特意拿出栗子编成的项链与手环戴上，并且走到铁锅旁扮出特别用力的表情。人特别可爱。我认为出来旅行的乐趣很大一部分来自于路上遇到的人，当你和陌生人之间有着积极的沟通时。会有一种说不出的乐趣融在其中。双方分别时那会心一笑，回味久久。

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

最后再提一句，我很喜欢吃栗子的袋子是这种两个纸袋合在一起的。一边放栗子，一边放栗皮。

既然主要目的达成了，是不是我们就可以买票回家了。当然不行，来都来了，不吃一顿就走，怎么可以。阿尔巴有一家名为Piazza Duomo的米其林三星餐厅，主打的就是阿尔巴特产白松露。多亏 很可惜今天没开门，我们错过了一次与美味邂逅的机会三星果然不便宜，一个Menu240欧元，等以后有钱了再来吃。

^{This photo is taken by @breathewind}

几经辗转，我们找到了一家貌似不错的饭店：在中央教堂旁边一家名为 Bistrot Duomo 的餐厅。这家餐馆需要定位，我们因为是临时起意来到这家餐厅，所以只好现场定位，服务员告诉我们要等一个小时。反正也要在松露节逛逛，我们就欣然接受，现场做了预订。

这一小时的等候，我们也没有闲着，走街串巷寻找着一切新鲜的东西。比如说现场熬制玉米糊的老大爷(我家那儿管这叫苞米面粥，下图左上)；卖各式松露与蘑菇制品的摊贩(下图中上与做下)；鹰嘴豆烤制成的薄饼(Farinata, 大爱，下图右上)和各式街头艺人。

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

终于到了我们预定的时间，我们可以开始大吃特吃了。由于大家都没有什么经验我们都点了这里的套餐(Menu)。总的来说，这家餐馆作为皮埃蒙特菜来说是很地道的。不过如果下次来，我不会选择套餐而是会直接随便点一份意大利面，然后让厨师给我加满白松露。从价格上来说前后两种吃法是差不多的 ，但是后者厨师会当着你的面为你的意面刨白松露，既观赏到了厨师的表演又能品尝到十分地道的白松露，怎么想怎么赚。

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

吃饱喝得，正好赶上当地的古装表演。十分像锡耶纳的赛马节，城市中的每个区分别派出演出队伍进行比赛，最终胜利的队伍获得由市政府颁发的荣誉。这里有一段视频，喜欢的朋友可以看一看。

^{This video is taken by @breathewind}

我们的下一站是松露展销会。门票要3.5欧元，如果多出一点钱可以得到一个杯子，凭这个杯子可以免费品尝展销会中的红酒。展销会里面是各种各样的摊位，以卖松露以及蘑菇制品的为主。还有一些卖当地土产诸如红酒，蜂蜜，奶酪的小摊贩。可以随便拍照，而且大多有试吃。白松露的的味道比黑松露浓郁很多，一块品相不错的白松露周围5米都能闻到其气味(今天实测过，夭寿啊，真的能闻到)。相对的白松露也要比黑松露贵很多，动辄几百上千欧元。而黑松露就便宜很多，像下图左侧中间的照片中，那一小瓢黑松露才10欧元。

下图右下的是整块蜂巢，里面有活的的蜜蜂，非常有趣。另外，我还要着力推荐下图中右侧中间途中的那个小瓶子里面装的酱汁Bagna Cauda，这个是皮埃蒙特特产的一种用蒜，红酒，凤尾鱼和橄榄油一同熬制而成的酱汁。加热以后用蔬菜蘸着吃，别有一番风味，在这里强烈推荐。正中间图中两个正对着镜头的人胸前挂了个小袋子，里面装的是品尝红酒用的玻璃杯，走到哪里喝到哪里，非常有趣。

说来还有一段插曲，我刚刚入场的时候，几个人过来问我是否可以接受下采访，这种上电视的机会我向来是来而不拒的。可惜我当时没有办法拍照片，等过两天问问小伙伴有没有拍到的，我再把照片补上。

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

最后，就是购买土特产的时间了。这里我可以推荐一家店(人格保证，绝对没有收广告费)：Antica Bottega Del Tartufo。我去年就是在这里买的松露酱，非常满意。老板和老板娘都胖胖的，人非常有意思。最关键的是松露酱的质量非常好，而且都可以随便试吃。特别推荐白松露酱，质优价廉，多买还可以打折。我和妻子一口气买了5罐。

^{These photos are taken by @breathewind}

就这样，一天短暂的旅行就结束了。就我个人而言，我是很喜欢阿尔巴这个地方的，当地人很会做生意，也很会配合游客，当地的食物也很好。总的来说，如果有朋友来都灵玩，又恰逢松露节，我是很推荐去阿尔巴这个地方走走的。

2017年10月22日

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