Apple Tree: Developing it to Grow Fruit [Gardening]

As Summer breezes lead to the cooler temperatures and rains of Autumn, I took many photos of my grafted Apple trees. Check out photos of this young tree to explore the design and shape of this tree I am training.

This set of photos is from September 6, when I noticed to my surprise the tree was opening many new buds, and forming new leaves.

Only a few weeks ago I had pinched and pruned off some some of the green stems that were growing too tall an upright.

For most of Summer, the tree seemed to stop growing. I think the potted roots may had put the tree into stress with the temperature of the air rising so high on a daily cycle. Now that the soil is cool and damp every day, without any risk of hot temperatures, the tree has reawakened with a quickened zeal to grow.

My goal for this tree has always been for it to bear fruit one day. I grafted a very sweet apple variety onto it, but it may still be a few more years before it bears fruit.

Since I am very patient, I am developing this tree very slowly. I want the tree to have a good shape so that it can bear fruit low to the ground where I can reach it. I also want the tree to maintain a shape so that it can be transported and moved easily inside the pot. Every branch on this tree is being trained into a specific angle so that I can eventually maximize a small space to bear as much sweet fruit as possible.

The graft union on the tree is clearly visible. Rootstock M27 is a dwarf variety that provides slower growth to inhibit the size of the tree. The tree however is expected to have a shorter lifespan.

Above the graft is the scion is called Sweet 16. This year I plan to graft another scion onto this tree called Northern Spy, which is an ancestor from which Sweet 16 is derived from. They are rumored to have a slight candy licorice taste, which I am excited about.

This cleft style graft was made by an expert for me, and it healed over really well. Notice that the wood above the graft is much smoother and green than the wood below. Every apple variety can have different styles of wood and leaves to help identify the tree and fruit variety.

Above I show the full tree in early September.

Below, these are photos taken much later in the month, on September 26, 2019.

The new leaves are maturing, and growth on the tips are continuing to develop new leaves and length on the stems. There are virtually no signs of insect damage or mildew problems.

The reason for the side stakes and training wires is to open up the branches of the tree into sideward directions. The wider the branch angles out to the sides the better strength the branches will have for bearing the weight of several pounds of heavy fruiting wood and fruit.

When a branch extends at a 90 degree angle out from the trunk, I call it a a shoulder, and these junctions are super strong when the tree becomes older. A muscular collar develops around the branch junction due to years of bearing heavy lateral weight against trunk. I believe the branch actually tears and heals over and over, forming a super strong wood. 90 degree branches are best as the lowest branches.

60 degree angles away from the vertical leader is the most ideal, because it has a slight upward tendency, and when the branch elongates with the weight of fruit it will arch to the ground slower. Since these branches will angle up and outwards, these branches are best to have along the middle of the tree trunk.

45 degrees away from another branch division is the smallest angle allowed. I would prefer these branches near the top of the tree. Growth energy is usually channeled out to to top of the tree. I usually only allow one or two of my highest branches to head straight up, and all the others should lower and angled away.

Anything branch junctions that open at a 30 degree angle or smaller are problem areas. What happens is when these branches grow underneath other branches, they compete for space. When they become laden with weight, the bend down and scratch against other weaker branches, causing breaks. Also the 30 degree branch junction will tear and split when the late season branches bend and pull in a downward arch, and the green wood is too weak to hold onto the branch.

When branches at a 30 degree angle form, I can either use the wire and stakes to help stretch them apart, or I can prune off one or the other. I can also train the remaining branch to bend out at a 45 degree angle or more, so that when the suckers form in a verticle angle, they will grow at proper angle distance away from the mother branch.

This is the lowest branch. It is thin, but its growing at a good angle. I might need to wait another year before this branch is ready to be grafted, because it is so thin and will not heal quickly.

Some top view photos showing how the branches are angled out in a radial spiral. I prefer to grow apple trees in a normal 3D ball shape, rather than the flat espalier design. I think it will have better balance, strength, stability, and health if allowed to absorb sunlight and grow branches through all three dimensions. Espaliers look a bit artificial to me, and I do not like having to install permanent stakes and guy wires for the tree to lean on a like a crutch. I want my tree to develop the strength to hold itself up and bear lots of fruit.

The little cup in the middle is used to house vinegar. In spring, sometimes this is necessary to trap and deter pests. Caterpillars especially will eat up all the leaves in a few days if not carefully monitored.

Lastly, here is my final photo of the tree, along with the historical information.

Historical Information

ID: 0011
Nickname: Applejack
Type: Apple (M27 rootstock, Grafts: Sweet 16)
Age: 2.5 years
Grown: graft
Last repotting: Never
Wired: Summer 2019

Other articles by @creativetruth featuring this tree:

• A Twofer: Douglas Fir Update and New Apple Tree
• 7 Handy Tip for Winterizing Trees
• 2018 Monster Garden Plan
• So you think you can grow an apple tree?
• So you think you can graft an apple tree?
• First Leaves of Spring: Apple Tree

Next time, I will be sharing some thought on a tree photo shared with me by a fellow steemian, @kimberlylane. It needs some help because the tree is leaning over too far. I'm working on organizing some advice on how to improve the tree so it continues to produce lots of healthy fruit. Assuming it has already been staked upright as far as it can, I will be providing mostly diagrams to show where to prune it.

Feel free to add suggestion and comments below.

---

Photos in this post are all #originalworks by @creativetruth, unless stated otherwise.

Find me on discord and chat with other tree growers, bonsai enthusiasts, and gardeners. We have quite a few accredited experts filling out our ranks, and a helpful Spanish-speaking community.

#teambonsai

No memberships. Love trees. Make friends. Grow together.

---