The Hungry Ghosts Festival and the Chinese Opera

When I arrived in Penang, Malaysia, the Hungry Ghosts Festival had just begun. Every year, in the seventh month of the lunar calendar, the Chinese community in Malaysia believes that the doors of purgatory are open and all the ghosts come to visit us. In the months of August and September, therefore, all those who did not have a proper funeral or died with debts come back to haunt us.
According to Chinese belief, all that these ghosts want is wealth, comfort, entertainment and, of course, food! After all, they are all hungry! And it's not a coincidence that the Hungry Ghosts Festival is so celebrated in Penang. The island, located in the north of Malaysia, is famous for its gastronomy. So, let's just say, it’s the perfect place for a ghost to come haunt!

In the months of August and September, almost every corner of George Town, which is the largest district on the island, there is a small bonfire. In it, the Chinese burn tea, candy, fruit, paper money, prototypes of houses and cars. Everything the ghosts most want ... During these months, the island turns into a great party. At the jetty, where a large part of the traditional Chinese community lives, it is possible to watch puppet shows, dragon dancing, and famous Chinese opera.

The curious thing is that no one watches these shows except the tourists. And, the reason is very simple. These shows are meant to entertain the ghosts and not us of this earthly life ...

Hungry Ghosts

The Hungry Ghosts Festival is one of the most traditional Chinese community in Malaysia. In Penang, I had the opportunity to know a little more about the Chinese culture of Southeast Asia and I discovered that what they have a lot of rituals and superstitions. During the months of August and September, when the festival takes place, the Chinese believe that it isn’t a good time to marry, start a business or move. Some people even avoid buying furniture. Anyway, accordingly to popular beliefs, these months are not at all prosperous and can disrupt the future success of anything that is for the long term ... Besides, of course, bring a lot of bad luck to you and your family.

The Chinese opera

The Chinese Opera was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life. Ang, the first friend I made in Malaysia, is a descendant of Chinese and thanks to him I was able to visit the backstage and photograph the artists before entering the stage. As all the music of the show is performed live, I also had the opportunity to see the musicians, the instruments and to follow everything closely.

As one of the performers had a small baby, I was very impressed to see him sleeping peacefully in the midst of so much noise and excitement.

The makeup and clothes that are used in the opera are a spectacle by itself. Full of details, all the artists undergo a real transformation. Behind the scenes, you have the impression that you have gone back in time and you are lost somewhere in the old China.

The Chinese Opera was banned by Mao Tse Tung in China. For this reason, it is only possible to see the show in the traditional form in Southeast Asia. Malaysia and Thailand are countries where opera traditions are still alive, although the new generation is less and less interested in perpetuating the culture. For this reason, operas are becoming increasingly rare and difficult to see.

The whole show is spoken in Hokkien and Teochew, which are common Chinese dialects in Malaysia.

Keep your ghosts entertained

It's so much fun to follow the Hungry Ghosts Festival and all the celebrations surrounding this unique time in Malaysia. The idea of ​​amusing their ghosts instead of fearing them is also something charming. After all, who does not carry their own ghosts? And fighting them, certainly, is not always the best strategy!

Practical Information The Festival of Hungry Ghosts takes place between the middle of August and September. Celebrations involving Chinese opera, dragon dancing, and puppet shows take place all over town. However, it is in the Chinese temples and jetty area that you find most of the shows. Just take a walk and get information with the locals.   (Penang, August, 2018)