Hi Dear Friend,

This actually would be our 5th day of the trip in this beautiful Himalayan region of Kinnaur and Spiti, but only till 10:30 AM- the time when we would cross the Rohtang pass and ride towards Manali. I think without describing this part of the region, my story would be left incomplete.

Before reading further, I suggest you to take a look at the photos of the Chandra-Taal which I posted in the previous post of this series. You will love the Yoga postures that we made at the bank of the lake.
4 Days and 4 Nights in the Cold Himalayan Desert of Kinnaur and Spiti -part#8- Camping at Chandra-Taal(Moon-Lake) altitude 4250 metres.

Morning at the Chandra-Taal base camp

Our eyes got open at around 5:30 AM in the morning, when we heard the broooom-brooooom sound of the bikes. This was the royal enfield bikes of the group of young men, who were ready to ride towards Manali. Within 10 minutes the white peaks towards east reflected a white-golden shine, Sun was up.

(tents at base camp and the first rays of Sun)

At night we had already decided to do the same - to start early, and the reason I already have stated in my previous posts, but let me tell you again, because this is the part where it is most important to know.

When the sun gets higher above the horizon, the heat increases the rate of glacial melt, and therefore results in the swelling of the numerous water streams across the road up to Gramphu. When you riding bikes on that dusty road, those streams become a problem. But the early morning was very cold. This link road up to Batal was only 11 kilometer, but there two major water streams in between, and that would wet our pants and shoes, and we could imagine the further cold. So, started at around 6:15 AM, when sun-rays appeared to be of some good help.

At Batal

Before 7:00 AM, with our wet pants and shoes we reached Batal. Sun was of no help, because clouds had already obstructed the rays. Batal is a known place among the tourists who come to visit Chandra-Taal, but it is nothing like a town or village. The place got fame for the Chacha-Chachi Dhaba, where this aged couple serve the paratha and Chaumin etc.

Meeting Chacha-Chachi

Chacha is famous for his humorous behavior, and an incident of saving the lives of a stranded group. Time of India called them 'Saviour couple of Spiti Valley.'

You can also watch them in this youtube video. by Peals of India.

We stopped at their Chacha-Chachi Chandra Dhaba, and ordered the tea and parathas. I greeted them with the names Chacha-Chachi, and told them that we had read about them in newspaper articles. They were graceful, and soon he gave the example of his humorous behavior. A lady ordered, '4 tea please,' and he replied back in a witty manner 'ok 400 hundred teas.' That made us giggle.

(Chacha-Chachi Dhaba, Batal)

(Road bridge across river Chandra and leading towards Kunzum, at Batal)

There are one or two other dhabas at Batal, also a rest house.

(Rahul)

(and Naren - this is how we three looked after the morning ride from Chandra-Taal to Batal)

As you can see, there is plenty of camping ground, and with the facility of food, the place is perfect if you want to acclimatize and visit the lake in early morning.

Batal to Rohtang

Distance is 63 kms, but this would make the most unforgettable stretch of ride of your life. This is full power adventure route. The road is wide enough but dilapidated and at places resembles nothing with a road. The numerous small and big water streams adds to the thrill. Sun becomes quite visible and after crossing about 20 kilometers you get to see the green carpet over the slopes. Let me share few pictures.

I don't want you to be very much afraid, so let me show you the widest stream we met, and you can decide the toughness for yourself.

(click session)

(That is my darling, 100 cc)

(I am not that much open in general)

(The dancing minds)

Here is another major stream crossing.

(Waiting for my turn to cross)

At Gramphu this tough ride ends when the road merges with the smooth tarmacked road. This road runs from Manali towards Keylong and Leh.

(Road merging at Gramphy)

(informatory board, and diversion towards Spiti valley, at Gramphu )

After starting for a while at 09:40 AM we started ascending from Gramphu.

At Rohtang Pass

From Gramphu the 15 kilometer long road rises continuously with a numerous curves to reach Rohtang Top at 3978 metres.
It tar carpet is damaged at places, so it gets dusty sometimes, otherwise it is very good. At 10:00 AM we reached Rohtang pass. Many people could be spotted clicking each other and the beauty of the mountains. There was no ice, except few unmelted patches of glaciers at Rohtang Top.

First sight of Rohtang top)

(A click towards back)

(Be Alert)

(An affair between Mountain with Cloud)

Standing with the board at Rohtang)

(Read about the man who surveyed the route for the highway)

As you can see in the last picture, the place was totally engulfed by the fog, nothing much was visible at a 5 metres distance. The road descends on the mountain slope down to Marhi. Then it follows a gentle slope and crosses Gulaba and many other small stations before you reach Manali. I mentioned Gulaba because this was the started point of our trekking trip up to Bhrigu Lake, but that is yet another complete story to tell you about.

The road is good, but narrow at places, and this stretch of about 55 kilometers from Rohtang to manali, was another wonderful ride. Yet it is simple, so nothing much to write about in this post. I will share more of my trekking stories in the upcoming posts, yet this particular series of Kinnaur and Spiti ends here. Thanks you very much for following so far. God bless you!

Here are the links to the other posts of this series, names of places are mentioned in chronological order of our visit.

Sangla and Chhitkul, the last Indian village.

Nako lake.

Dhankar monastery

Kaza, Kee, Kibber village

Langza Village.

Komik village- the highest motorable village in the whole world

Kunzum Pass.

Camping at Chandra-Taal(Moon-Lake) altitude 4250 metres.