Few travelers had heard of either until the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government was forced to flee Tibet in 1959.

"Dharamsala" means "spiritual dwelling" but refers to shelters built for pilgrims to give them a place to "rest" as they make their journey to visit spiritual destinations. When the first permanent settlement was established at present-day Dharamsala, there was one such "rest house" providing such a service so the new settlement took the name Dharamsala.

But, today, Dharamsala is actually made up of 2 distinctly different areas. Although the 2 areas are only separated by roughly 5.5 miles (9 km), they are more dramatically different than the short distance might imply.

Lower Dharamsala is where most of the government offices, schools, hospital, markets, bus station, and other commercial areas are located. It is a typical small Indian town with little draw for tourism except as overflow for upper Dharamsala. Upper Dharamsala, which is actually known as McLeod Ganj, named for Sir Donald Friell McLeod who was the British Lieutenant-Governor of Punjab, is where the Tibetan Government-in-exile and the Dalai Lama reside and the district most tourist go to visit.

When the Dalai Lama left Tibet, in 1959, Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru allowed the "government-in-exile" to establish a permanent residence in Upper Dharamsala leading to the migration of thousands of Tibetans residents. Due to the Buddhist influence, Mcleod Ganj has become a very popular destination for tourists, backpackers, and students of Buddhism. This interest, has led to an explosion in the popularity of McLeod Ganj attracting thousands of visitors each year to volunteer with the Tibetan community, take courses in Buddhism, meditation or yoga, trek in the Dhauladhar mountains, shop for Tibetan crafts, or just enjoy the spiritual ambiance that emanates from McLeod Ganj.

Climate

Since McLeod Ganj is located in the Dhauladhar Range at just over 6,800 ft (2,080 m), the winter months can dip below freezing, but the summer temperatures can rise as high as 100°F (38°C). But, even though December to February are obviously the coldest months, the beautiful and surreal environment you can experience as you immerse yourself in the surrounding mountains that are covered with heavy snow only adds to the mystical feel of McLeod Ganj.

During monsoon season, July to August, landslides are common due to the amount of rainfall so traveling during this time is not advised. With the rain ending in early September, however, the vegetation comes alive and the vibrant colors and warm temperatures provide a perfect environment for days of adventure.

Food

By far, one of the most aromatic experiences you can have is by enjoying the culinary offerings representing the mixing of cultures that call McLeod Ganj home. While some restaurants like Mc'llo cater mostly to the tastes of average tourists, other cafés have remained true to their nature, providing local cuisine that highlight the various cultures that exist within Upper Dharamsala. And, if you're willing to experiment, cafés like The Snow Lion, Chocolate Log, and Tibet Kitchen can provide an unbelievable local experience.

Things to Do

Within McLeod Ganj, there is so much to see and experience, it is difficult to put a together a complete list. This is especially hard since just sitting still and taking it all in might be one of the better options. Nonetheless, there are several sites and activities that should not be missed.

• Tsug la Khang is the sanctuary of the Dalai Lama. This sanctuary along with its compound host the Namgyal Monastery as well as several shrines. There are statues of Buddha, Chenrezig and Guru Rinpoche found within shrines within the compound. There is also Ling Khor, which is a meditation trail close by where you can see small shrines and large stupas. A visit to Tsug la Khang is probably the most important activity to include on anyone's visit to McLeod Ganj.

• Bhagsunath Temple was built for Lord Shiva, by King Bhagsu. Like Namgyal Monastery, this sanctuary has become a very popular attraction in Mcleod Ganj. The beauty of its surrounding and alluring ambiance make it a perfect activity to include during anyone's pilgrimage.

• Bhagsu Waterfall is near the Bhagsunath Temple and is one of the most exhilarating activities to include on your trip. The sight of this 65 ft. (20 m) tall waterfall is absolutely stunning, especially after monsoon season. Make sure and have your camera to capture mother nature in action.

• Triund is just behind the Dhauladhar range at 9,000 ft. The 5.6 mile (9 km) trail is breathtaking. The panorama of the Kangra valley from the Triund peak is absolutely amazing.

• Church of St. Johns in the Wilderness is a neo-gothic church built in 1852 and is one of the most important churches in Himachal Pradesh. It was built in dedication to John the Baptist and is the final resting place of Lord Ergin.

• Kangra Art Museum is in Kotwali Bazaar and has artifacts dating back to the 5th century that represent the rich history of the Kangra Valley. It includes a gallery of Kangra's famous miniature paintings, sculptures, and pottery.

• Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts is home to the unique folk opera of Tibet called 'Lhamo' which gives viewers a deeper understanding of the Tibetan culture.

• Norbulingka Institute preserves and promotes the traditional Tibetan arts and literary studies. Another great place to visit to immerse yourself in the Tibetan culture.

Conclusion

Today, many would say that McLeod Ganj is little more than a ghetto for backpackers and spiritual dropouts. That the clatter, confusion, and never-ending sights and sounds that go on day and night are more than most can bear. But, the Tibetan culture that is visible everywhere from the shops strung out along the narrow streets selling traditional Tibetan arts and handicrafts to the aroma of Tibetan dishes lingering in the air provide more than enough reason to visit.

Most average tourist may find McLeod Ganj, a little too frantic for their tastes but if you can get past its grungy feel, McLeod Ganj is a sight to see. Where else can you experience the spiritual, commercial, and natural beauty all in one place?

If you're looking at McLeod Ganj for peace and rejuvenation, you need to understand one thing. You need to find it within yourself first and then allow McLeod Ganj to be the mixture of people, cultures, sights, and sounds that it is.

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