A Bolivian Dog Who Protected Me (A Dog's Story)

I arrived at the town of Uyuni at an ungodly hour. Blame my lack of planning and proper estimation. For me, planning takes away the fun in everything, and I always just don’t care about my arrival time when I am traveling. This resulted to yet another adventure in this small town in Bolivia, walking in the wee hours of the morning and looking around for a place to stay. This typical eerie scene of a ghost town, all seemingly empty. Places were either closed or were just unwelcoming. I surely didn't want to wake up anyone. I didn't expect for any 711 or 24-hour Mcdonalds here, just no warm place where I could hang out to wait for the sunrise. I was here to see the Salt Flats. But there are empty benches here to sit on or lay me down to sleep? Some were occupied by a few homeless people. All I knew was that I was tired from the long bus ride. I couldn’t care less, and I just wanted to rest.

After realizing that walking around would not get me anywhere, I just resigned to a nearby bench where I thought I would be away from the prying eyes of some passersby. Then a big curious dog approached me, and I knew what he liked. Some stray dogs in Bolivia are friendly to travelers because we might have some food for them. Luckily I had some, and I gave it to him so he could just leave me in peace.

It didn’t. Ok, I didn’t have any more food. But he was free to stay with me, and perhaps make me feel warm in this unforgiving icy Andean climate. I petted him, and I was actually enjoying his company. I’m more of a cat person but after my travel, dogs proved to be more loyal and more loving than humans.

I tried to look around for some warmer area to sleep and the dog followed me anywhere I went. With no luck, I went back to the bench. It was very cold outside but anyway I tried to sleep. The dog sat beside me the whole time. I was just awakened suddenly when he was barking at someone who seemed to be coming to my direction... and the man left. He did this to anyone who tried to approach us. That time, I felt protected by this dog. He was an angel.

Morning came very fast and I said goodbye to this dog. I went to an agency to book a day tour to the Salt Flats. It was fun. After the tour, the jeepney took the travelers back to the town. I came back at night and was feeling exhausted due to lack of sleep. I picked up my stuff at the agency to look for a proper place to stay. I found a hostel, looking very rustic and advertising “free hot shower”. That sounds like a prize to me. I went to their dorm with 4 beds, each with a layer of thick blankets. The lack of heating system is pretty normal here in Bolivia, a heater is a luxury. Those fluffy blankets made from Alpacas or made in China are what I was grateful for. I could survive a night.

People come and go here, as there’s no other reason to stay in this cold town except for the famed Salt Flats. There was no chance to mingle and hang out with other travelers. Don’t expect clubs or bars here too. This place is meant for nature trips. Like a trip to the Salt Flats and up to the Atacama desert in Chile.

I had the much-needed shower and went back to the road. This time, I had the energy to hitchhike, and the most dreaded part was getting out of the town. This is always a challenge whenever I’m hitchhiking, but it is also such a fulfillment when I make it to the main highway. I had to rely on my map to check the exit, the main road looked so close, but I actually had to do a lot of walking.

I bought some Bolivian breakfast or street food when I noticed a big dog following me again. Wait, I recognized him! Oh yes, and I had more food for him. He was so adorable and I was really happy being accompanied by him once again.

It didn’t feel such a long walk due to the dog being by my side. I started to wonder if he has a home or just one of those stray dogs hanging around in this town. One friend once told me that they have homes, they just like to meet at the plaza to hang out. But someone told me that my friend said that to only make me feel better. These dogs actually don’t have homes.

They survive on the street, they are used to the cold weather, they get food, they bite and sometimes they entertain. Pretty sad, isn't it? I actually wanted to live in this town and just take care of these dogs, and spend the rest of my life with them. I won’t get that unconditional love and loyalty anywhere else. A dog is indeed a man’s best friend.

We walked along the empty streets, through barren lands and crossed the railway track together. It was an amazing walk with him. I didn’t feel the heaviness of my backpack anymore, nor did I feel lonely... for a moment.

I talked to the dog the whole time. I also tried to shoo him to make him go back. But he followed me until I had reached the main road. But I guess he just wanted to stay....

It was such a long wait on the road as hitchhiking is not really common here. And few cars were passing.

One truck finally came and I ran to the front door and handed over my backpack to the driver. I hopped in. But I looked back through the window and saw the dog running after the truck. I shouted,

Chau!

I'm sorry....

I felt terrible and sad. I wish I could go back someday. I wish I could travel with the dog, he seemed like a good travel buddy. I wish. But those times, I was already having a hard time taking care of myself. I was also homeless…that the dog was in a much better position.

It hit me how lonely it was to travel alone for a long time....

I still couldn’t forget that scene and that memory stayed in my mind.