Caesarea Philippi - Banias Springs, Israel

After breaking bread at St. Peter's Restaurant, our tour group headed north toward the Golan Heights. The drive was interesting, taking a border road with a sensor fence running alongside of it. It was interesting to be so close to the border, but we felt safe, as well. The Jordan river, which flows from the Sea of Galilee, has three sources. One of those sources is Banias Springs, at the foot of Mount Hermon. This spring once poured out of a cavern that was dedicated to the god Pan, which morphed in time to Banias. During Jesus' time, this area was known as Caesarea Philippi. It is mentioned in two of the Gospels (Matthew and Mark).

There are two entrances to Banias Nature Reserve. One leads visitors to the largest waterfall in Israel. The other entrance leads to the natural springs. We entered the park at the natural springs entrance. As you enter the park, you pass by many relics from the Roman era. These are made up of archways and pillars that are stacked in areas along the path. Many have intricate carvings on them.

Pillars in foreground, Pan cave in background

Additional carved stonework along the path

The Banias Nature Reserve has several paths. For leisure travelers, it is possible to hike from the natural springs to the waterfall. We did not have time for a leisure walk, focusing instead on the archaeological and religious aspects of the springs. Located close to the parking lot is a tourist shop with ice cream, cold drinks and souvenirs. Going past the tourist shop, away from the mountain will take visitors to restroom facilities. These were free. Going towards the mountain, you will pass an area with stonework to the right with channels carrying spring water through the sitting area. To the left is a pathway that leads up to the cave area.

Our guide advised that this road, which runs in front of the cave, is part of the Via Maris. This was an ancient road which ran from Egypt into Syria and Turkey. I consulted an ancient map of the Via Maris, and it does indeed run through Banias. Whether this specific road is the road or not, I can only go by what my guide said. He said it was, and I have no reason not to believe it. If so, then this is the very road Jesus likely traveled when he visited Caesarea Philippi. While he never went into the city, the story says he went near. I am not sure how far the ancient city is from these ruins, but I would imagine it would be close given the roman artifacts near the entrance.

During the Hellenistic era, the cave at Banias was a Grotto to Pan. Subsequent temples were built into the rock along this face of the mountain. These increasingly smaller carve outs likely held statues at some point in time. Here is the first and largest of the subsequent caverns. You can see an upper and lower area here and if you look closely, you can see the smaller places for idols further down.

Looking back the other direction provides some perspective on the location. The original cavern where the spring once flowed is furthest away. The subsequent hollows are located progressively closer to the camera. It is believed that an earthquake changed the location of the source of the spring that originates here.

In Matthew 16:13-20, Caesarea Philippi is described as the place where Jesus revealed his true nature to his disciples. This is taken from the English Standard Version:

13 Now when Jesus came into the district of Caesarea Philippi, he asked his disciples, “Who do people say that the Son of Man is?” 14 And they said, “Some say John the Baptist, others say Elijah, and others Jeremiah or one of the prophets.” 15 He said to them, “But who do you say that I am?” 16 Simon Peter replied, “You are the Christ, the Son of the living God.” 17 And Jesus answered him, “Blessed are you, Simon Bar-Jonah! For flesh and blood has not revealed this to you, but my Father who is in heaven. 18 And I tell you, you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of hell shall not prevail against it. 19 I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven, and whatever you bind on earth shall be bound in heaven, and whatever you loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven.” 20 Then he strictly charged the disciples to tell no one that he was the Christ.

Mark describes this same event in Chapter 8:27-33 (NIV)

27 Jesus and his disciples went on to the villages around Caesarea Philippi. On the way he asked them, “Who do people say I am?” 28 They replied, “Some say John the Baptist; others say Elijah; and still others, one of the prophets.” 29 “But what about you?” he asked. “Who do you say I am?” Peter answered, “You are the Messiah.” 30 Jesus warned them not to tell anyone about him.

This picture belongs to Bible History Online

The painting above illustrates what this site would have looked like in ancient times. The Grotto of Pan to the left, where the spring flowed from a deep pit that appeared bottomless to visitors. The later additions would be to the right. The pagans considered the cave to be a gate to the underworld, because of the combination of a cave and a deep pit. Given this context, the words of Jesus make more sense. In verse 18, the "gates of hell" or "gates of hades" will not prevail against (me).

Visiting Banias Nature Reserve

Hours of Operation:
Winter: Sun – Sat: 8am-4pm, Friday: 8am-3pm
Summer: Sun – Sat: 8am-5pm, Friday: 8am-4pm

Banias Ticket Prices:
Adult: NIS 27 (approximately eight dollars)
Child: NIS 14 (approximately four dollars)
Combo ticket (Banias & Nimrod Fortress): Adult: NIS 38, Child: NIS 19 (11 dollars; 5 dollars)

Contact:
Springs entrance: 04-690-2577
Falls entrance: 04-695-0272

A Christian Guide to Israel

Hotels
Cinema Hotel Tel Aviv, Israel
Ron Beach Hotel, Tiberias, Israel
Prima Park Hotel, Jerusalem, Israel

Attractions
Caesarea National Park Caesarea, Israel
Mount Precipice Mount Kedimum, Israel
Sea of Galilee Boat Ride Tiberias, Israel
Yigal Alon Museum (Jesus Boat) Ginosar, Israel
Capernaum, Israel
St. Peter’s Restaurant Kinneret, Israel
Caesarea Phillipi, Banias, Israel
Israeli 6-Day War Memorial
Jordan River Baptismal Site, Yardenit, Israel
Beit She’an National Park, Beit She’an, Israel
Mount of Olives, Jerusalem, Israel
Garden Tomb, Jerusalem, Israel
Western Wall, Jerusalem, Israel
Western Wall Tunnels, Jerusalem, Israel
Via Dolorosa, Jerusalem, Israel
Bethlehem New Store Gift Shop
Pool of Bethesda, Jerusalem, Israel
Israel Museum, Jerusalem, Israel
Yad Vashem, Jerusalem, Israel
House of Caiaphas the High Priest, Jerusalem, Israel
The Upper Room, Jerusalem, Israel
Tomb of King David, Jerusalem, Israel
Masada National Park, Masada, Israel
The Dead Sea, Masada, Israel

Churches
Discalced Carmelite Monastery Muhraqa, Israel
Basilica of the Annunciation Nazareth, Israel
St. Peter’s Church Capernaum, Israel
Church of the Multiplication Tabgha, Israel
Church of the Beatitudes Tabgha, Israel
Church of All Nations, Jerusalem, Israel
Church of Saint Anne, Jerusalem, Israel
Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Jerusalem, Israel
Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem, Israel

These photos are my own. They may be used with permission.