RE: Satsuki Azalea Backbud followup
Go with your instinct. You said you think you already trimmed enough for the year, and I agree. I was shocked at the last photo, that this was the same tree. I would not have believed it until you told me.
What do you guys think?
@romanolsamuels
@daniellozada
The base has a really good thickness to build a shape from. It already looks like an ancient tree, just looking at this part.
The branches do not have any taper yet. I can clearly see where the wood changes from the last season's growth, to the season before, and then there is no more size change in the branches, so it gets boring, to me.
I would keep the thickest branches very long, so they can continue to grow thicker, because you want them to match the proportion of the trunk. Take off the thin long branches extending from the center, and the upper sidewinders criss-crossing multiple branches, and promote the buds to become the new secondary branches to fill the perimeter spaces.
Is the top photo showing the preferred front view? I like this view better, as the reverse view makes it hard to determine which branch is the dominant leader. My preference is to see the branches growing from a dominant branch/trunk in the middle, rather than an outer branch that seems to be competing with it. Alternatively, if you really exaggerate it (and favor thickening the side branch as the new leader), the oddity of the new balance can become its most desirable aspect that gives the tree value and unique character.
Adding movement to Azalea is very challenging for me. The wood is so brittle, and new growth only happens once a year after it blooms. I think choosing wisely where to cut to promote new buds into fun angles will be the best way to change the style of the tree shape.
Thanks for sharing @mattlovell. I forgot what your tree looked like, so I was glad to find this post. My Azalea is barely starting to push out new leaves. It doesn't have nearly as much explosive growth as yours. All that root space is allowing it to grow vigorously to fill in a third of the parts you removed. You might be able to get away with pruning a third more for this year, with new buds continuing to fill in at the correct time this season.
Thanks for the input. y es, i am liking the top photo for the front ( I made the first image clickable for full size so you can see the branches better). My thoughts are to make the 'large' trunk in the center the main trunk with the canopy centered over it (or maybe slightly to the left), with one of the low branches on the left extending out keeping the flow of the tree basically to the left... basically a windswept style. something like this (but to the left):
I agree, the existing branches have no taper, and basically no movement. I am completely unskilled at wiring, and I'm not about to 'learn' on this tree. so, for now it will have to be done with the 'prune and grow' technique. It will be slow going as you mentioned. That's why I'm wondering if I can encourage the new branches by cutting back some of the original long straight branches.
My other issues you also metioned: "all that root space". The tree is still in its nursery container with its nursery soil. I did not get a chance to replant or root prune it before the weather turned hot. its now averaging 95f here with 115f days (thankfully those are not too common). So, the tree is already root heavy. I don't want root dieback/rot.
My gut is telling me to leave it and let the tree recover from its initial pruning. Then repot/root prune next year and trim back the old growth to balance above and below...
Yes, do the root work when trees are normally planted in your area. Autumn or early Spring. Let it adjust a few years in a training pot with good bonsai soil to encourage smaller root divisions. Sounds like you know what you are doing with that part.