Sailwithme along "E6": Ulön, Hamburgsund, (Grebbestad), Havstenssund, (Resö, Koster), Herfølrenna, (Hvaler, Moss, Sandspollen)
I promise this will be my last photodump post for a while - my cellphone camera got lost on the sea.
Dannemark-Ulön
We slept by anchor just south of Ulön-Dannemark. Here is a seamap with our position: https://kart.gulesider.no/m/tDzn0
The night before, my crewmate was quite worried because the depth-meter was showing values like 10-40 cm of water under the keel, that's not much. The map said the depth should be like 3-5 metres deep. I was honestly more concerned that he had made dinner which was becoming cold ... so after dining I found a very small anchor and dropped it down to measure the depth of the sea. It went down several metres and it was covered with sea weed when it came up. Conclusion: there were probably some 10-40 cm of water between the keel and the sea weed. When taking up the anchor in the morning ... it was a complete mess, lots and lots of seaweed (I just left it like that - some 24 hours later everything had dried up and blown away).
This is a piece of the Ulön island. It looks like "just some granite", but I can ensure you there is plenty of vegetation on the island!
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This civilization is a part of the Heestrand settlement (Heestrand, that doesn't sound much like a Scandinavian name).
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There are some few lines about Ulön-Dannemark on Wikipedia. Further, skimming the titles returned by a quick google search reveals that the beach that is barely seen on the photo is "possibly the best beach in Sweden". I don't know about that, but I can tell that we have been visiting that beach and we have been going for a walk on the island and we enjoyed it!
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Hornö Renne
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One out of many cottages at Hornö. This one looks particularly nice as they have a decorated boat house and an outdoor bath tub with wood-fired heating.
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According to kanaler.arnholm.nu, Hornös renne has been artificially made deeper. This photo is to the starboard side, which is connected to the road network, but luckily not that easy to see from the sea.
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A cross-road - and I need a camera with zoom. The signposts read "Jorvik" (that's Viking-language for york) and "New York" to the west, "Göteborg" to the south, "Oslo" to the north and "Hamburgsund" to the east. I'm not sure, maybe the sign with "Oslo" is done in an attemt to try to keep the flow of homeward Norwegian tourists out of Hamburgsund. "E6" is clearly going through Hamburgsund.
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Hamburgsund
Hamburgsund is also covered by kanaler.arnholm.nu, as well as wikipedia
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Seems like someone is collecting old ship(wrecks).
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Warning sign about the cable ferry. It's not allowed to use sails through Hamburgsund due to the cable ferry. Read on, and you'll see why ...
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Local petrol station
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Nice white house, and nice white church in the background
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Cable ferries in the background
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Kornelia is clearly just lying there ... it's not connected to any cables and hence not much useful there. It's really blocking my view to the active cable ferry. I probably should have just kept some speed here and the cable ferry would have had to wait for me. Instead I went really slowly, and just as I was close to the cable ferry, the cable snapped tight as the ferry started moving ...
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Here the cable ferry is already on the way back. One can clearly see that the tensioned cable is lifted up in the air ... so best not to try to cross while the ferry is passing!
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Quite some warnings about the ferry indeed
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Some system for lifting the boat up from the water when it's not in use. It may even be considered environmentally friendly, as the owner won't have to use much antifoul painting on the boat.
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I love that some of the boathouses have names
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- 2018-09-02 09:31:58 localtime - full quality
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Do you see the mermaid?
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I've seen this man before, but only now I saw that he's driving a segway! He's on the last property on the starboard side. On the sign it says "got tur" (wish you a pleasant journey) on the side seen when leaving Hamburgsund ...
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... and "sänk farten tack" for those entering Hamburgsund (slow down, please)
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Fjällbacka, Tanumstrand, Grebbestad
Here is a view of Fjällbacka. We've stopped there once, but only for a very short stay - it was in the winter time and we asked someone there if they could fix our diesel heater. They told us to try in Grebbestad.
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This is from Tanumstrand, south of Grebbestad (Swedish Wikipedia). I've never stopped there, but I have stopped in Grebbestad, several times. It's a nice town, particularly nice to climb the hills and watch the view. It's a bit far from the guest harbour to the food shop. It's probably possible to get quite close to the shop by dhingy, but in the central parts of Grebbestad it's very shallow and only private boat places. Grebbestad has the shop Systembolaget, which is needed for anyone wanting to buy alcoholic beverages in Sweden. In the regular food shops they are not allowed to sell anything with more than 3.5% alcohol. Actually, we do enjoy this - the food shops in Sweden has a broad selection of beer with 3.5% alcohol strength. That's quite perfect, as one can drink such beer in almost unlimited quantities without worrying about becoming too drunk to sail the boat. There is also Systembolag in Strömstad and Kungshamn, but both places they are relatively far away from the guest harbour. In Strömstad it's possible to get reasonably close to Systembolaget by the dhingy. But I digress ...
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Unfortunately I forgot to take photos from Grebbestad.
A bit after Grebbestad comes "Gula Humparna", literally the yellow bumps. This is a short stretch of sea that is quite so unprotected against the elements, so it can be quite bumpy indeed if the weather is bad. I don't understand why they are "yellow" though ...
Havstenssund
Next place on the route is Havstenssund (Swedish Wikipedia). Here is the beach:
position: geo:58.672458,11.260393 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:28:38 localtime - full quality
And the lighthouse
position: geo:58.752555,11.176054 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 13:29:06 localtime - full quality
Here is the port side, when passing the light house. This is a smaller island without road connection (nor public ferries).
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Starboard side
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More port side view
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Starboard, fishing boats and the shop Syversen from 1888
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If stopping in Havstenssund, I would strongly encourage to go find the sliced hill (bergklyft).
Resö, Ramsö, Koster, Sekken
I think I tried to sleep a bit - no photos from this distance.
We've been stopping at Resö, Ramsö and Koster earlier.
The border crossing to Norway is yet another rough patch, we did experience some rolling there.
Herfølrenna, Skjærhalden
Herfølrenna is straight ahead here:
position: geo:58.993701,11.067036 (geohack) - 2018-09-02 16:54:59 localtime - full quality
Herfølrenna is also quite narrow and a bit stressful. Unfortunately I was too busy first trying to reduce the sail area (it was a bit chaotic and undecided when entering if we would get the tailwind or the headwind), then navigating through the straight, so no photos taken. Afterwards I was busy taking in the mainsail completely, putting out some fenders (but not enough of them, I discovered a bit later), and then mooring up at Skjærhalden, where my crewmate jumped off to take a bus back to Oslo. The landing was a bit crazy, I didn't quite anticipate that I (due to the wind and the current) would have probably more than a knot of speed sideways towards the floating quay. Should have added much more fenders.
Selected photos available in original quality on IPFS QmZNJSBS8tkJxZpeBw4EMF2pxaEErXFuNy8C7ENhotcuA8. All photos taken available in original quality on IPFS QmV4Po8jy73gpYzWjb1hjuj7ZkWPdwJVcz13CgsXhe4mwb. The CC BY-SA 4.0 license applies on both my photos and the article
Hvaler, Søstrene, Missingen, Rauer, Larkollen, Moss
We went completely on the outside of Hvaler, it's the shortest way, but it can be a bit rough and uncomfortable. My middle son was with me, he's usually not the one to get sea sick, but outside Hvaler he needed the bucket - just in case. It got too dark to take photos. Søstrene and Missingen are two pairs of islands that do offer a little bit of temporary relief against the waves - then comes Rauer (which is still off-limits and owned by the military - all other islands that have been military areas in the Oslo fjord has been given up and turned over to the public), On the inside of Rauer as well as north of Rauer there are rarely bad waves.
I've been anchoring outside Larkollen many times, it was for sure tempting to do it again, but this time I was in a bit of a hurry, it was Sunday and my son should get to school Monday morning.
I arrived at Moss around 02:15, but I did have a list of things that should be done before I could get to bed - like paying harbour fee and putting some laundry to wash - so only around 03 I was in bed. Up again at 06 next morning to get my son to school. I had Monday and Tuesday off due to weekend work. I went home to say hi to my wife ... my plan was to go directly back to the boat, but I had been sleeping for too little, so I spent quite some hours in bed before I got back to the boat. I got back to Moss before 16, took a taxi up to a boat equipment shop (so annoying they don't have it by the sea!) to buy a new fridge (the old one got the door for the small freezer compartment destroyed ... I managed to hack it together using glue, a screw and some paper ... but now it got broken again just before we lended out the boat - without that door in place there was quite some growth of ice - and eventually while the boat was lended away someone decided to defrost it using a knife - not a good idea, the cooling circuit got punctured).
I spent really long time getting the fridge in place and failed a bit ... the new fridge was a bit bigger than the old one. I had quite much other cleaning and maintenance to do there as well, and I also considered I needed to go rollerblading to a shop to buy some glass fibre and some other stuff for boat repairs ... so I got a bit late to bed. My plan was to get up really early and sail on. But of course, in the morning the motivation to get out of bed very early just wasn't there. Then I decided to do some repairs on the sail while it was no wind ... this took crazy many hours, in the end I did get only half the way to Oslo and still I got home really late in the night.
Sandspollen, Oslo
I left the boat by anchor in Sandspollen, a place I covered before in my post Sandspollen - 101 boats. Guess what - this time I could observe one and only one other boat except mine, and it was a small boat permanently anchored up in the far end of the anchorage. Well, plus some boats at the marina there and some few boats belonging to cottages.
I got back to it on a chaos day, for one thing I was a bit ill ... then the lifetime of the anchor winch had obviously expired, no hope getting it to life. Darn, I just spent so much money on the fridge, and now I will have to spend even more on a new anchor winch? Next thing, I managed to lose my telephone into the sea. Then I was a bit clumsy when dropping the anchor after arriving to Oslo, suddenly I needed to use motor power in the aft direction - I was quite unprepared for that, my dhingy was on a long rope, of course I managed to get that rope into the propellor. It just wasn't my day.
Saturday the 8th I was back to the boat again, and had some crazy experiences ... but that's for another post.
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So sorry to hear that you lost your cell phone camera at sea. That is bound to be costly. Your photos are so good that I feel that I am on the boat with you tobixen.
Not that bad, actually. That phone was one of the cheapest I could find, the screen was broken and it was frustratingly slow. I actually have a phone budget at work that I have never bothered to use, so I replaced it with one of the more expensive phones in the shop.
The anchor winch, that's going to be costly ... but I'll try to use rope and hand force for a while.
Time for a new phone then!! New toys are nice but you will definitely put it to good use so it is a good investment.
I got a Huawei top model, as it was just exactly within the allocated phone budged from my employer. I'd never spent that much money on a phone myself - but it's already saving me time and frustrations, like, logging into the internet bank through the sign-in-app was horribly slow with my previous phone. Unlocking the phone by fingerprint is also comfortable and saves me time.
The camera is probably also a lot better - I've forgotten to test even, took the first photos yesterday so it will be a new post soon I hope.
I never thought I needed a thumb print function til I got my new iPhone and found the exact same thing with my banking app. It even says good morning or afternoon to me when I login so that in itself is worth the hundreds of dollars.
Yes the camera gets better and better with every phone I find so you will love that. Definitely buy a case to protect it though......preferably a waterproof one that floats in your case. ;)
I thought of it, but does it exist? The phone is supposed to survive some water, so "all" I need is some floating edge protection. I need something that lights up in the darkness as well upon falling in the water. (I do have a handheld VHF radio that floats and lights up when it gets wet).
Hah! I was just being funny. Definitely a case that helps protect against drops and dings though for sure. That is a small portable computer.
One of my biggest problems when it comes to the risk of losing the phone in sea (done that twice already - and was very lucky not to lose it in sea like three times during the summer vacation), or in Korketrekkeren (lost my phone twice there and once when sledding in another hill - luckily it was found two of those three times) is my pockets. In Korketrekkeren I was really trying hard both times to keep my phone in zipped pockets, but as I frequently take it out and in again it either ends up in the wrong pocket, or I forget to zip the pocket.
I'm considering such an arm holder to have the telephone on my arm ... but it should probably be at the lower left arm, so I can look at it and use my right hand for typing on it.
In fact I had this around 2008 - a watch-sized phone I bought from DX. It wasn't a smart-phone, but it did have a camera, it did have bluetooth, built-in loudspeaker and microphone as well as headset, and a small stylus pen (with a holder for it embedded in the watch). It was genius, I never used sound on the phone only vibration, and I never lost a call, and it was quite easy to type messages with the pen. I actually preferred to use it without the headset, speaking with a low voice into my wrist and putting the wrist up to my ear to hear the response from the other side. There were only some two problems with it ... for one thing, I'm color blind and had managed to order a pink watch! For the other thing, it had a non-standard usb plug and eventually the charging cable broke, and I couldn't use it any more.
I smell some irony here ... but I'm actually using that banking app quite frequently, and quite often in quite stressed situations.
The background is that I'm doing some "market maker" work at Localbitcoins and other similar sites, people are often willing to pay some extra commission for getting their domestic bank money turned into crypto currency or vice versa. Speed and availability has somehow become two of my selling points ... meaning that it actually is essential for me to be able to quickly take out the phone and log into the bank no matter if I'm skiing with my family, mooring up in a difficult port, if I'm in the middle of my family dinner or whatever.
To keep up with all the customers I've also found it necessary to install umpteen different chat applications, those are eating up available memory and bogging down the phone ... and I also need to switch fast between banking applications, communication tools and calculators. That bank signing app is particularly annoying ... it would fail in like 20% of all attempts on my previous phone (much less now with the new phone), I would need to use it twice every time doing outbound transactions (first to log into the bank and then to sign the outgoing transaction), and worst of all ... the signing was doomed to fail if I did any task switching or if the phone went to power saving mode before the signing was completed. Outgoing transactions really needed baby sitting, only when getting the final confirmation that the transaction was completed I could report to the customer that money was sent .
So ... in the end of the day ... faster banking from my cellphone is really significant for me. :-)
Thank you very much for the fascinating photo tour, @tobixen
I'm sorry you're sick, of course. But I think that everything is fine.
A refrigerator will be different-it's all the little things,
but you will have a great experience and so many beautiful photos.
Have a nice trip. And tailwind )
Really such a very impressive pictures,Sea water looks so beautiful,Water is very important in our life,very attractive places,buildings looks so great,Your photography always interesting,many ships in the water,you are so enjoying your travel,And so sad news you lose your cell phone at sea,your cell phone is costly,God gives you new cell phone,thanks for sharing your great photography,
Wow... beautiful photography
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wow, very nice photo "dump" :)