Behind the Wave

After arriving and placing in a hotel in Sri Lanka, the first thing that rushed ... no not in the eye, as one might think, but in the ears - it's the sound of waves. It was clearly audible even from the road passing from the opposite side of the ocean. A methodical and deaf sound that almost did not leave me all the next two weeks. He was present in the hotel room, shop, restaurant and even in a bus or tuk-tuk.



Very quickly you get used to it as something self-evident. Well, then, on arrival, I immediately wanted to see what was there. I always immediately after coming to the sea. To say hello ... I must say that in most places where I traveled it was the sea. And the waves were small, 30-40 centimeters. And here ... a meter and a half ... And sometimes the rolling wave could not yield to me in growth at all. In a word Ocean.



And all of our coast was like that. Exceptions were only areas where groups of stones or pieces of reef, located at a small distance from the shore, took a hit on themselves.

Then a small relatively calm creek formed where one could safely swim. But from the very first day I had the idea of fixing these waves. The very same ones, the big ones.



The main difficulty was, because of the relief of the bottom of the wave, began to twist beautifully already at the very shore. And there are stones and a bottom. A little gape and you spins and drags. I must say that still an attraction!
And from the beginning it looks beautiful ...



but in a moment ...
you are already inside the wave ...



And you drag and tumbles over the sand and rocks.
You can certainly dive under the wave in time. Then you can swim without any problems. But here is what a dilemma arises - if you dive, you miss the very moment when you need to shoot. Well, if you stayed to film, then you are likely to wash it off)



Yes, most of the time you can balance on the brink. Somehow dive and go. But each time one or two waves managed to twist me into their whirlwind. And at this time I regretted that I did not have elbow pads, knee pads and probably a helmet.



That's how it looks from the shore. Here, the size of the wave relative to my height (190 cm) is very clearly visible. So the bots, gloves and bandage on the ears were clearly half-measures, although it was great about life.



At first it was still difficult for me to understand what kind of wave would be great, and which one would pass almost imperceptibly. What a twist in the distance from the shore, and which is already on the very edge of the sand, pouring all white foam. Only in the last couple of days I started if I did not understand, but feel a little bit of what and how it will be.



As a result of the material, there was not much at all, but I am very pleased with this opportunity - to try to shoot a wave. I learned a lot of interesting and new. There were a number of technical difficulties. But even in isolation from the photos, the very feeling of maneuvering in the waves is amazing! I hope that in the future we will still be able to try something similar. Where there are more waves.



Still, the waves are very beautiful, especially at dawn and sunset ...

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