The Myconid Barbarians are coming #2

in #miniatures7 years ago

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Its Here. The forges of the nether regions of fungusania have been hard at work and finally we present:
The Myconid barbarian. Armed with a scale covered Scutum shield and a bone sword, he strides forth to conquer the world.
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Yesterday I had the time to get the sword and shield made for the Myconid Barbarian. @basilmarples had informed me that he was armed with a scutumtype shield and a bonesword, and that I was free to interpret this as I liked.
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I went for an Ikakalaka inspired design. the Ikakalaka is a congolese short sword with one of the most brutal and cool blade profiles I can think of. I took the liberty of adding a point to it. You can go see a real Ikakalaka here
The shield , being a scutum style was pretty fixed in shape but I made the surface look like it was made of scales possible from a (very large) lizard
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I had him printed yesterday on my wanhao D7 1.5 using a black resin. These resins are a little bit translucent which is why he is slightly see through. He is 3.1 cm high from base to head (3.3 with the sword) which fits well with 28 mm scale figures
Now he just needs a coat of paint and he is ready for adventure. I would put him up for auction on steembay , but really he is very much made to order so maybe its more fair to first give @basilmarples the chance to just buy him.

Since this was a first test project (and because this was as much my idea as @basilmarples) I expect to be able to sell him for 20 SBD plus shipping (which depends on where I need to ship him)
In the future I would definitely be willing to make similar projects but the price for a full design and print would be higher. This time around I have effectively only charged for the print, since I did the modelling and design for my own amusement.
If you are interested please send me a message or write your proposal in the comments of this (or a later) post.


Im EvilHippie, a compulsive creative and jack o' trades. If you want to know more about me, check out my introduction post here

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Oh my SHROOMGODS! YES!!! This is completely amazing! You have totally blown my mind with this whole response to my initial idea. Thankyou so much! The Ikakalaka was a great choice, and the scaly shield is very cool as well.....I have a reaper miniature Lizardman with a turtle shell as a shield, it kind of reminds me of that! So how shall we do this? Do you have a discord account?

Haha thanks. Yes i am evilhippie at discord as well. #9351

ok. Im a bit rubbish at discord, but I think Ive friend requested you.....wasn't sure how to search for you for some reason

Great job. The transparent resin looks great too!

Thanks. Yes I have some reallly transparent resin too. supposedly you can print optical lenses with it. I havent tried but it is on my todo experiment list.

Details of a DLP Printer are amazing. I need a bigger workshop soon...the price of the Wanhao D7 seems to be almost too good to be the truth.

yes it is very cheap. I also thought it would be bad becasuse its so cheap, but I took the chance. I am very happy about mine, and it is a great complementary printer to my ultimaker. it is somewhat more specialised for small, highdetail prints, so for an all purpose printer I would still recommend a fdm.
The wanhao d7 s are mostly bought by people who want to do jewelry, miniatures, dentalwork and such like.
I think (based on the discussion on the web) that it is :
1: fairly hard to use for a lot of people. My personal take is that if you are systematic, take your time, make sure you have tested before commiting it is quite good.
2: quality varies. I have a good well functioning printer, but some people report a lot of problems with components that simply does not work. whether this is actually quality probelms or simply refers to point no 1 i dont know. My personal experience is that it worked out of the box. It had a slight z-wobble which was fixed when I upgraded.
3 its messy. You need to be very careful so as not to get resin all over your workplace, but that goes for any resin printer I assume.
4: it is not easy to get perfect crispness all over the place. just like with fdm some surfaces are easier than others. in fdm usually vertical and topside surfaces get nice details. in resin it is the other way round. vertical and bottomside is really nice while topside tends to become a little blurred in the detail. this can be fixed the same way you would in fdm by orienting the print and/or cutting into smaller parts

Yea the messy part is the one that stopped me so far from buying one and size is something that matters to me as I mostly build parts for my robots.
How is the part strength of the resign prints?

That depends very much on the resin. if you print say solid pla. it is probably more or less the same, but as with fdm printing there is a ton of different resins to choose from.
I have not done alot of experimenting with strength but since I cast my prints in metal I have made vulcanized rubber molds (for casting wax in preparation for metalcasting) these rubber mold are put under both temperature(app 100 degrees celsius) and pressure (handcranked so i dont have measurements) for half an hour or so. afterwards the rubber mold is cut open and in that process i dont go gentle on the print. Even so, they often come out undamaged. That said small parts like the sword on this figure are prone to breaking if handled roughly.One company , funtodo resin, sell a resin called industrial blend which supposedly should be even more durable, but for what I do, ordinary resin is fine.

I see he turned out as a tankish build awesome!

Mushroom Warrrior for the win! I love the 3D thingy. Splinterlands wants to do tabletop and some sorts of 3D stuff down the road. Thanks for sharing.

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