RE: The Myconid Barbarians are coming #2
yes it is very cheap. I also thought it would be bad becasuse its so cheap, but I took the chance. I am very happy about mine, and it is a great complementary printer to my ultimaker. it is somewhat more specialised for small, highdetail prints, so for an all purpose printer I would still recommend a fdm.
The wanhao d7 s are mostly bought by people who want to do jewelry, miniatures, dentalwork and such like.
I think (based on the discussion on the web) that it is :
1: fairly hard to use for a lot of people. My personal take is that if you are systematic, take your time, make sure you have tested before commiting it is quite good.
2: quality varies. I have a good well functioning printer, but some people report a lot of problems with components that simply does not work. whether this is actually quality probelms or simply refers to point no 1 i dont know. My personal experience is that it worked out of the box. It had a slight z-wobble which was fixed when I upgraded.
3 its messy. You need to be very careful so as not to get resin all over your workplace, but that goes for any resin printer I assume.
4: it is not easy to get perfect crispness all over the place. just like with fdm some surfaces are easier than others. in fdm usually vertical and topside surfaces get nice details. in resin it is the other way round. vertical and bottomside is really nice while topside tends to become a little blurred in the detail. this can be fixed the same way you would in fdm by orienting the print and/or cutting into smaller parts
Yea the messy part is the one that stopped me so far from buying one and size is something that matters to me as I mostly build parts for my robots.
How is the part strength of the resign prints?
That depends very much on the resin. if you print say solid pla. it is probably more or less the same, but as with fdm printing there is a ton of different resins to choose from.
I have not done alot of experimenting with strength but since I cast my prints in metal I have made vulcanized rubber molds (for casting wax in preparation for metalcasting) these rubber mold are put under both temperature(app 100 degrees celsius) and pressure (handcranked so i dont have measurements) for half an hour or so. afterwards the rubber mold is cut open and in that process i dont go gentle on the print. Even so, they often come out undamaged. That said small parts like the sword on this figure are prone to breaking if handled roughly.One company , funtodo resin, sell a resin called industrial blend which supposedly should be even more durable, but for what I do, ordinary resin is fine.