I usually shoot on 10 or 12 power. At 1000m I shift to 15-16 and at past that I go around 18-20. I need to see the splash...The fall of bullet if I miss so I can read the wind and adjust so zooming right in is dumb.
Reading the wind to within +/- 1mph is important...I am pretty good at it and am probably sitting at around +/- 1-2mph with my wind calls as far as speed. I practice it with mates.
Scopes are important though, and often cost more than the firearm itself. Mine do anyway. As long as it tracks well you're in business.
Well since I was given the Swede because it was damaged, the Leopold scope is more expensive for sure, LOL! I repaired and rebuilt it to a really nice rifle, including inlays with Purple heart wood.
I need an anemometer anyway, so this is a good excuse to buy one!
It has tracked well so far, but I have not moved it to the extremes you have....
Cool. Glad you're liking the posts.
The 6.5 is a 7 power fixed Leopold, so I need more on that one. But I keep the other one I keep at 8 power most of the time.
:)>I usually shoot on 10 or 12 power. At 1000m I shift to 15-16 and at past that I go around 18-20. I need to see the splash...The fall of bullet if I miss so I can read the wind and adjust so zooming right in is dumb.
Reading the wind to within +/- 1mph is important...I am pretty good at it and am probably sitting at around +/- 1-2mph with my wind calls as far as speed. I practice it with mates.
Scopes are important though, and often cost more than the firearm itself. Mine do anyway. As long as it tracks well you're in business.
Well since I was given the Swede because it was damaged, the Leopold scope is more expensive for sure, LOL! I repaired and rebuilt it to a really nice rifle, including inlays with Purple heart wood.
I need an anemometer anyway, so this is a good excuse to buy one!
It has tracked well so far, but I have not moved it to the extremes you have....
:)>