๐Ÿš—๐Ÿ”งHOW TO: REPLACE YOUR BRAKE PADS!๐Ÿ”ง๐Ÿš—

in #life โ€ข 7 years ago

Good evening steemians!

Today I had the pleasure of working on a 94 Nissan D21 truck. The customer wanted only new brake pads installed, so it was brought to the house and I went to work on it. Brake pads are possibly one of the simplest jobs to do, so I wanted to walk you through it to save money at the shops!


Start by lifting your vehicle and support it with jack stands (note the emphasis. In the event that a jack fails, you'll live to be glad you had stands.). See your vehicles owners manual for proper lifting instructions, every car has different lifting points. If you don't have this, just go on the frame of the vehicle. Then remove your tire. You should see something like this:

IMG_20170829_160231.jpg

Locate the 2 caliper bolts. These can be found at the top and bottom of the caliper. Remove them using a socket or wrench. Mine required a size 14mm, again every vehicle is different.

Now just slide the caliper off, and do not let the caliper hang, it will put stress on the rubber hose and damage it. Hang it up with wire or set it on top of something. Now pull the brake pads out, they just slide out. This is a good time to inspect the brake hardware. The caliper has what is called "guide pins" if these get rusted and stuck, it can cause improper and premature pad wear. Check to insure they move freely like so:

IMG_20170829_160417.gif

Now, lube the pins if needed, while also lubing all of the contact points on the pads with brake caliper grease (which can be found where you buy the pads), including where the caliper touches the back of the pads and where the pads slide into the bracket. You can see the lubed contact points below.

IMG_20170829_160655.jpg

After that, slide the pads back into the bracket.

IMG_20170829_161720.jpg

You'll want to push the piston back into the caliper with a c clamp or piston depressor tool like so.

source

Reinstall the caliper and bolt it down.

Now reinstall the tire and you're all done! You'll want to test drive the vehicle to be sure everything is working, but remember to PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE MOVING.


SIDENOTE:
If you tackle this yourself and get injured or die, I am in no way responsible.
I did not instruct you to hurt yourself.

I LOVE getting feedback! Do you have suggestions or comments on how to improve my posts? If so, post them below, I want to hear from you!

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Help!

I just read this post and attempted it myself, now there is a funny sound when I drive my 1943 Chevy Tundra!
It sounds kinda like krrkkkkkchinggrakkkcrackalacker...

What could I have possibly done wrong?!

Thanks in advance.

P.s. My finger is also currently stuck in the c-clamp.

Is it the Eddie Bauer or Z71 edition? Easy way to tell: Z71 has a 24" wiper blade, and EB has a 22โ…œ" blade. Either way, those 1943 models are tricky. If you look under the glove console, you'll see a tiny flux capacitor. You'll need a multimeter to measure how many gigawatts of amps it has, if it has more than 2ยผ, you'll need to bleed off the electric pressure so the coolant temperature will stabilize the brake pads. Hope this helps! Cheers!

Can't help with the finger. You have 9 others atleast. Best of luck!

Dayum, that's a lot.

Unfortunately, it's the Nismo Limited Edition: 1 of 3 made.
I guess I'll be making a trip to the last dealer left in the world...in Cambodia. That sound is gonna get annoying on the drive over.
Hopefully they can get things worked out for me.

Btw, I used egg whites to get the c-clamp off. Learnt that on Pinterest.

So...Thanks for nothing, I guess

This was fun to watch you do it! I don't think I could do it! But I am glad I have you to do it! The post is great My Love! ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜˜๐Ÿ˜

I'm confident you'd do great! ;) I'm happy to do it! Thank you babe!! ๐Ÿ˜˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ’๐Ÿ˜‰

This post has received a 1.04 % upvote from @drotto thanks to: @banjo.

Congratulations! This post has been upvoted from the communal account, @minnowsupport, by drobinson from the Minnow Support Project. It's a witness project run by aggroed, ausbitbank, teamsteem, theprophet0, someguy123, neoxian, followbtcnews/crimsonclad, and netuoso. The goal is to help Steemit grow by supporting Minnows and creating a social network. Please find us in the Peace, Abundance, and Liberty Network (PALnet) Discord Channel. It's a completely public and open space to all members of the Steemit community who voluntarily choose to be there.

Awesome post @drobinson! The only thing i would add is how they bleed brakes after just incase.

Very good addition to this post! Thanks!

I'm doing this to my VW GTI this weekend. Will be referencing this guide!

Your "Sidenote" sounds funy to me ,though i love the post and will give it a try soon

you should also make a post like this @nickperry, i bet there is a lot of gti owners here :)

Awesome! If I've remember correctly, some vw's vary. Some are simple like this, and some require you to remove the spring on front of the caliper, remove the two rubber caps on the rear of the caliper, and loosen two 7mm Allen head bolts to remove the caliper. They may also have brake pad sensors you need to disconnect.

I got all of that but.......just in case could you repeat the whole thing, I wasn't listening.๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜† Omg, I have a huge appreciation for the fact that you enjoy working on cars @drobinson because I hope to God I never have to do this.

Sure! So what you do is...

Haha, I do enjoy it! If you ever have to do it, we'd like to hear about it! ๐Ÿ˜œ Thanks, @gringalicious!

Wow, great share.

As a single mom to three boys, and a woman who appreciates a man who can fix things, I realize the importance of my boys knowing how to do simple repairs. This is great. Thank you!

Thanks so much! It is very important in my book!

Good tip on how to push the wheel cylinder piston in so you can get the caliper over the rotor.

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