A Long Run to the Onsen - Why Japanese Hot Springs and Running Are a Killer Combo, and: HOW TO "DO" AN ONSEN VISIT.
By Chris 73 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link
I MAY HAVE FOUND A NEW DRUG. I'M NOT SURE.
What I do know is that last week's 30 km run to Yahiko followed by a dip in the local onsen (natural hot spring) was an experience I'll never forget. I have been to many onsen before, but the experience was never so enjoyable as after having run 20 miles in the late summer heat. When your body is absolutely tired, then it is absolutely ready to relax and to soak up all that healing heat, and benefit from the heavy mineral presence in the natural hot spring water、 or O-yu, as it is called here in Japan.
This weekend I am planning on running along the bank of the Agano River, heading 22 miles inland, toward the mountains, to one of the many onsen at the Sakihana Hot Spring.
HOW DOES ONE "DO" AN ONSEN?
It's pretty simple, really. You go into the building. Put your shoes in a shoe locker. Bring the locker key to the front desk. Pay your entrance fee (which sometimes includes a set of towels), and get a new key for the locker inside the changing room. Once in the changing room you find your locker, disrobe, and put the key around your wrist, bringing only a small towel with you into the bathing/onsen area.
THEN, IT IS IMPERATIVE YOU SHOWER BEFORE ENTERING THE ONSEN. GOING STRAIGHT IN WITHOUT UTILIZING ONE OF THE SHOWER CUBBIES AND THOROUGHLY WASHING IS AKIN TO SHITTING IN THE BATHTUB IN JAPANESE CULTURE.
Okay, maybe it is not that bad, but you will definitely be stared at, and possibly asked to leave if you don't wash first. I find the little shower/bath cubbies, equipped with a stool, plastic bucket, body wash, and shampoo, to be extremely relaxing, and a perfect precursor/ritual to partake of prior to entering the bath.
Once you're relaxed and all clean, it's time to partake of the fantastic, hot, healing mineral waters of the hot spring. There usually are pools both indoors and out, depending on the onsen, and also baths of varying temperature from the nearly scalding hot, to chilled. Go ahead and get in, and soak it up. The only real rule is: DON'T PUT YOUR TOWEL IN THE WATER! Put it on your head and let out a big relaxing sigh like an old man.
When your muscles have soaked in all the healing heat they desire, then you hit the shower cubby again, and dry off with your tiny towel (or larger one if there is a rack to store these in the bathing area), ringing it out again and again before going back to the locker room.
Finally, when you're all dressed, and you've utilized the free Q-tips, weighed yourself, had some cold milk from the vending machine, and just meandered around aimlessly and half-naked, like a big, relaxed leopard, then you can hit the sprawling tatami room for a cold beer, some TV and a session in the massage chair.
From a previous post of mine, The Anarchy of the Onsen: A Peek into a Staple of Japanese Culture, and its Anarchistic Nature
THIS WEEKEND'S RUN!
I've driven this route along the Agano River before, but am not sure if there is really a running path. The road is basically a high ridge along the river bank, and is quite narrow in some spots, so I'll have to be careful. Looking forward to it! The hot spring I am heading to is right there at the end of the route in the deep green of the mountains.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions about onsen, etc, feel free to ask away in the comments. See ya on the trail!
~KafkA
Graham Smith is a Voluntaryist activist, creator, and peaceful parent residing in Niigata City, Japan. Graham runs the "Voluntary Japan" online initiative with a presence here on Steem, as well as Facebook and Twitter. (Hit me up so I can stop talking about myself in the third person!)
Natsukashi! We used to take evening dips in an onsen after cycling 60~ kms / day, and it was always a great way to end our day.
We cycled each Golden Week (holidays in first week of May) through various parts of Japan. Along scenic coastlines, into verdant forests, through beautiful old towns, along quiet country roads with barely any traffic, up massive mountains, and then down the mountains into peaceful little fishing villages.
Of course, we did not find an onsen in every place we stayed, but often enough (particularly in the mountains), there was always one in the area. And that's where we'd set as our destination.
Soaking in the hot-spring water after a long work-out was always one of the highlights of each day.
After your 30-km run, I can imagine it was supremely refreshing and invigorating.
It was! Glad you know the feeling, and thanks for this beautiful comment!
how hot are this Japanese hot spring? i saw them many times in anime , but still dont know temperature of them, also is there any smell ? and how expensive are they?
As far as the temperatures in actual degrees, I'd have to check. Basically, some are hotter than your average hot bath, and some are freezing cold (the cold baths are usually smaller tub-like areas). There is usually one pool (in my experience) that is at a more tolerable temperature--not scalding hot--but still warm. They often smell like sulfur.
As for the price, very cheap. One can get into most onsen (if a hotel stay is not required) for 5 to 10 USD.
Nice post! Surprised by that photo inside the onsen! Every time I go there are always NO PHOTO signs plastered everywhere, haha. Just went down to Hakone a couple weeks ago. Never gets old, eh?
Haha. Yeah. That's not my photo. From Wikipedia. ;)
Ah! なるほど lol
thx for sharing
Sounds very exciting, I guess if I ever will visit Japan, I will certainly try it out. The only thing I did not like is this shower, it is kind of looking very uncomfortable. Automated showers are so much better, but yea it would lose a taste of ritual.
I'm not sure what you mean by "automated" but they are normal showers as far as plumbing and water pressure go, with temperature controls.
Hi kafka..it seems you are a very adventurous person..doing expeditions and presenting it ...giving minute details of it to the readers is really praiseworthy...I am imagining it the way you have depicted..all the very best for your next adventure ...and do be careful...
wow .would love to be here
@kafkanarchy84 Your generate up is spectacular. Mad regard for sticking as a result of many of the hardships, Many of us would've Give up A great deal before. Upvoted.
That's great fun, plus if we soak in warm water, we can feel the benefits. Great post..