Layer Coop Amenities Part II
Ernie distaining the coop’s amenities….check egg under her…
This is Part II of a 3 part series.
You can find Part I here: https://steemit.com/homesteading/@goldenoakfarm/layer-coop-amenities-part-i
You can find Part III here: https://steemit.com/homesteading/@goldenoakfarm/layer-coop-amenities-part-iii
This part will cover roosts, nestboxes, and ladders.
Roosts: Roosts should be made of smooth 2” x 4” lumber or 1¼” diameter sturdy wooden poles. Do not make the roost too large or too small, otherwise the birds will not be able to grasp it well.
Also, make sure there is enough roost space for all of the chickens. Allow 8-12 linear inches per bird. If multiple roosts are used, space them 1’ apart and 1’ high, so that lower birds will not be pooped on. Chickens live in a 3 dimensional world: width, length and height! Roosts will act as a “2nd story” thus adding to the available sq. footage.
If you live in an area that gets really cold, using the 2” x 4” with flat sides up (sand the 3 upper sides and round the upper edges to prevent bumblefoot) will help conserve body heat. The feet will rest flat on the board and be covered by the feathers.
Nests: The nests you build in your chicken coop should be approximately 12” wide x 15” long and 13” deep. Provide litter or some other type of soft material to keep the eggs from cracking. If you just want eggs then build them up to 17” to 19” off the ground. If you intend to hatch chicks each year, you should have the nests in contact with soil. The hen needs the humidity during the hatching process.
If they are off the ground, provide a ramp ladder for access. Heavy breeds can get bruised breasts jumping down from high boxes or roosts.
To encourage your hens to lay in their nests instead of on the floor, situate the nests in a dark area away from the general activity in the coop. You can encourage the hens by hanging a piece of burlap over the entrance of the nest. Hens are unhappy when laying where they can see out, or someone can see in.
When building nests, putting an 8” hallway in front of the nests, like bedrooms off a hall, and having an access opening at one or both ends, will satisfy the hide-a-way instinct.
Don’t forget to plan easy access to the nests for egg gathering/cleaning, either from the back, top or front.
Sleds to keep them off the top, check out wing marks…
Sleds hooked up for egg collection/nestbox cleaning
You should allow 1 nest for every 2 - 3 birds. If you don’t provide for the hideaway instinct, chances are good they will select the best nest and all try to use it, possibly resulting in broken eggs.
References:
North & Bell's Commercial Chicken Production Manual
Community Forums
I love a great chicken post! I enjoyed getting a look into your coop. I am always looking for new ideas. For our birds I used tree limbs for roosts. About the same diameter snd cut to length.
Here in New England, I get down to -25F each winter, so frostbite is a serious concern. That's why we use the 2" x 4" and not round poles. With the flat surface, they can sit on the entire foot, none hangs off uncovered. Plus I tend to do whatever will help them conserve energy because I need them laying all winter.
In hotter areas, the round poles would work just fine.
Thanks for the info. I am going to be updating our coop this spring in anticipation of 15 Buff Orpingtons and this will come in handy.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! This post has been added to our growing directory of Steemit "how to" posts for the Homesteading/Survival/Foraging/Prepper communities. Your post is helping people learn to survive and thrive now and in the future!