Elmina Castle

 The Elmina Castle (also known as  St. George’s Castle) that you see today stands quite regally overlooking  the Elmina fishing harbour and was never intended to be anything other  than a trading post. It was built by the Portuguese in 1482 and is the  oldest remaining European building in sub-Saharan Africa, designated as a  UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It is located along Ghana’s central coast  and is one of more than 20 castles that became synonymous with the Slave  Trade; soon after it’s capture by the Dutch in 1637, the Castle became  one of the most important stops on the African Slave trade route, and  millions of unfortunate souls caught their last glimpse of “home” when  they passed through the notorious Door of no Return. Visiting the Castle  is a chilling pilgrimage that every visitor to Ghana should undertake  to get an insight of the extraordinary cruelties to which human beings  can be driven by greed.     

A Little History

Together with more than twenty other so-called Slave Castles, Elmina  was used to process the millions of Africans who fell victim to the  world’s largest forced migration of human beings – human trafficking on a  grand scale.   Originally the Castle housed luxury suites for the Dutch  traders, set above store rooms for gold, timber and gemstones.   As the  demand for slaves increased the storerooms were converted to dungeons  to house the unfortunate slaves for an average of two months before they  would be shipped across the Atlantic Ocean to North America, South  America and the Caribbean.  The conditions were horrendous and many  succumbed to disease and death even before they reached the Door of no  Return.  Hundreds of thousands of captives passed through Elmina Castle  during the approximate 300 years that the illicit human trade was  continued.     

The Construction of Elmina Castle

The construction of the Castle in its original form was a  considerable feat!  All the building materials, including heavy  foundation stones and roof tiles where transported in a pre-fabricated  state to the site from Portugal.  A large fleet of ships was required  and they took a month to make the journey, bringing with them provisions  for 600 labourers.  The Castle started quite modestly as a typical  square structure with a round defensive tower at each corner, but was  modified and enlarged many times – bastions were strengthened,  courtyards and living quarters added.  In 1637 the Castle was captured  by the Dutch.  By now the Slave trade was thriving and the original  Portuguese church was changed into a trading area. In addition a Dutch  chapel and the notorious Door of No Return were added.   The present  structure, which is considerably larger than the original still features  one of the round Portuguese towers and has been very well preserved.     

The Dungeons, the Door of No Return and other Highlights

The Infamous Dungeons

Visiting the dungeons will have you poised on the edge of an  emotional abyss; the dark and stiflingly hot dungeons were once home to  up to 200 unfortunate souls who lived in abject misery – pressed up  against each other without even room to lie down.  Sanitation was  rudimentary and consisted of a channel in the ground running the length  of the room, and ventilation was by way of a few holes in the roof.  It  is a macabre place to visit, as you imagine what it must have been like  to live like that for up to  two months.  Many visitors find the  experience emotionally draining. The Door of No Return was the inevitable end of the line for all the  imprisoned slaves.  This is where they caught the last glimpse they  would ever have of their homeland before being loaded onto the slave  ships.  Today you can walk through this notorious door in both  directions... the slaves were not so lucky!   

The Well

The original design of the Castle included a system of drains and  cisterns that would collect rainwater for drinking and other purposes.   In the courtyard is a well where the water was drawn – legend holds  that many resisting slaves were drowned in this well.   The Ramparts of the Castle offer one of the best views of the lively  and colourful Elmina fishermen’s harbour, as well as an aerial view of  the extensive complex.   

The Governors Quarters

The generous proportions of what used to be the Governors Quarters  are in stark contrast to the cramped and filthy cells in which the  slaves were housed, reinforcing one’s feelings of distaste.  In addition  you will see the staircase leading directly to the cell that used to  house the female slaves, making it easy for the governor and other  senior officials and guests to select any of the women for their  pleasure -  even children as young as 13 were considered suitable  choices.   

Other Attractions at Elmina Castle

St. George’s Castle Museum is situated within Elmina Castle and was  established in 1996 in order to educate visitors on the history of the  Castle and also to preserve the cultural heritage of Ghana’s Central  Region.  Here you can get a better idea of how the Castle developed  through the ages from some of the photographic images on display, as  well as peruse various ancient artefacts which include shackles and  other restrainers as well as less formidable relics such as ceramics,  clay, glass and beaded items.   Facilities at the Castle include Guided Tours (which are a must to  make the most of your visit), a bar with restaurant and bookstore and a  gift shop.   The Castle is open daily from 09.00 to 17.00   

Nearby Attractions

Elmira Fishing Harbour is a lively and colourful antidote to the  sombre experience of a visit to the Castle.  In near-by Cape Coast Town  you can enjoy various interesting workshops including Batiking,  Drumming, Beadwork and Head-wrapping. 

How to Get There

You can reach Cape Coast Town from Accra in less than 3 hours by bus.  From there it is a quick taxi ride to Elmina.