As Vincent put it sunscreen really is not a great way to protect yourself. It does work for protecting against sunburns yes, but the stuff that's in most lotions is totally questionable. I really don't want to seed fear or worry, but it is worth looking into the hazard potential of sunscreen, there is a lot of info available.

Coconut oil works wonders for me. You smell like a piece of delicious candy, wasps and bees leave you alone and it works. Unless lots of water is involved - it washes off rather easily.

Moderation is a great idea as Vincent said. More than that: give your body time to adjust. If you amp up the time in the sun every day by a few minutes you will not sunburn so easily.

I am a pale dude as well, but it does work for me to increase my exposure steadily.
Mud of course is the best protection but socially inaccepted to run around with in MOST places ;)

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!