A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO OCEAN WAVES

Ocean waves are caused mainly by wind, and it may also be caused by landslide,
• Volcanic eruption
• Submarine earthquake
• Attraction of gravity of the moon and sun, and the earth.

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Parts of a wave

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Ocean waves may be transverse or longitudinal.
ocean waves are classified into two main categories namely:

• Deep waves

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• Shallow waves

A deep wave is one when the ratio of water depth to wavelength is greater than the half and it is shall where it is less than ¹/25.

Difference between shallow and deep water

Shallow waves	Deep waves
shallow water waves moves in elipses	deep water waves moves in circle
Shallow water waves, the horizontal particle, and the horizontal dimension of the elipse remain unchanged from the surface of the ocean to the bottom of the ocean	Deep water waves, the circular orbit speed of the circle decrease with depth
Shallow water waves depends only on depth of water	Deep water waves depends on the wavelength and depth of water
The phase velocity of the water wave are independent of depth.

Shallow water waves are not dispersing, deep water waves are dispersing.

Tide: The rise and fall of water is called tide. while the back and front action of the tide is called Tidal action.
A tide maybe diagonal or semi diagonal.