Class 3 cut and sewing, notes half of beginners basic measures.Part I.
The world of fashion passionate to almost all people, but very few are those who decide to take the step to start designing and making their own creations. With these tutorials and face-to-face courses we intend to empower those women who are housewives, who need employment, in the same way, those who want to start their own business. or simply fond.
The main purpose of this blog is to become a practical support guide for learning the trade of tailoring, which will be very useful for assisted learning or self-learning of people interested in this trade.
Basic Terminology in Cutting and Making
Stitch: Each of the holes he makes in the fabric the sewing needle leaving the thread in different position and forms.
Pattern: Stroke that is made on paper and that serves as model to mark the fabric where it is going to be cut and sew.
Measures: These are numbers that represent physical proportions of a person's body its length, width and contour (thickness).
Yard: Unit of Anglo-Saxon length equivalent to 0.914mt used in Venezuela to measure the fabric in purchase and / or sale.
Rule: Long instrument, rectangular section or square to draw straight lines or make measurements. To make curved lines, an instrument is used in shape of a drop of water that is called a seam "Curved rule".
Accessories: Additional parts of the sewing machine to measure and trace different effects in the sewing.
Use the Tape Measure
The Metric Tape is a strip or band, made of cloth or plastic divided into centimeters and millimeters, which serves to
measure in cutting and sewing.
The following drawing outlines a position of the tape measure with centimeters and millimeters Centimeter: One hundredth of the meter.
Millimeter: One thousandth part of the meter and tenth of the centimeter.
The tape measure used in cutting and sewing has 150 cm and each cm (centimeter) is divided into 10mm
Decimals may arise when taking measurements example: 32.5cm that reads 32 centimeters and a half;
28.75cm that reads 28 centimeters and three quarters (1/4), 5.25cm that is read, 5 centimeters and a quarter.
The General Measures are dimensions of contours, wide, high, of a person who are evaluated with object to make him a suit.
The following drawing illustrates the general measures necessary for a basic dress.
Bust outline: The measure taken surrounding the bust by the most protruding part of the chest.
Waist outline: It is the measure that surrounds the intersection of the thorax with the abdomen, by the site
Hip outline: It is the measure taken surrounding the level of the widest part of the hip.
Length of waist (top of the blouse): It is the measure of the highest part of the shoulder (where the neck is born)
going down to the waist.
Back width: Measured from the waist towards down, up to the height that the client wants.
Back width: Measure to be taken from the shoulder on the shoulder
Front seat width: It is taken ahead of sisa to sisa, a little above the chest.
Shoulder width back: Same as the front but on the back
Low or high bust: From the top of the shoulder, base of the neck, to the highest part of the chest.
Bust separation: From nipple to nipple, parts Higher chest.
Back waist length: From the back, from the high part of the shoulder to the waist.
Front waist length: Front, like back through the upper chest.
Waist outline: Around the waist.
Low or high hip: On the side, from the waist to the widest part of the hip.
Shoulder: From the base of the neck to where the arm begins.
Skirt length: In front, from the waist to where you want.
Measurements of body widths are divided between two. The long or high do not divide.
The following drawing shows the general measurements of the body that necessarily have to be divided.
Correct answers: 14 cm, 24 cm ½, 25 cm, 60 cm
Use Rules for Cutting and Making
Straight Ruler: Rulers are long rectangular or square shaped instruments for drawing straight lines or making measurements.
Curve Rule: Own tool of cutting and confection in the form of an enlarged water drop that serves to draw curved lines according to the anatomical shape. Transparent rule: Rule used to rectify the thread of the fabric, to mark eyelets, tucks and folds.
Graduated rule: Instrument of wood, metal or plastic divided into centimeters and millimeters whose most usual sizes are 30.5 cm and 46 cm, and are used to measure.
Ruler square: Instrument usually made of wood, metal or plastic formed by 2 straight lines positioned in L that serves to locate the thread of the fabric and frame straight edges.
Small curved rule (drop): Wooden ruler that has the shape similar to an enlarged water drop, useful for drawing curved lines, in patterns such as neckline curve.
Long Curved Rule: A curved-edge wooden instrument used to draw curved lines in patterns such as the curve of the hip.
Elaborate Hand Stitch Sample
The stitches are the holes that the sewing needle makes in the fabric leaving the thread in different positions and shapes according to said holes.
Observe the name of the stitch used by hand in cutting and making with the respective product or shape thereof.
Stitch: Figure made by the sewing needle.
Sewing: Union of two or more pieces of fabric by a dotted line. The seams are usually made by machine. Since the seams of a garment must resist wear and tear, it is good to start them and finish them off with finishing.
Margins of the seam: The margin of the seam is the fabric that is left between the line of cut and what must be sewn. In general they are 1.5 cm. Except in some special pieces such as pockets, collars, armholes, where margins of 1 cm are left. or 5 mm (0.5 cm.)
Stitching: Stitch where the needle is stuck from right to left backing in each point to the hole of the previous one and taking it one more point forward.
Point Back: Stitch similar to stitching but the stitches are longer underneath and the needle instead of digging into the hole of the last stitch goes a little further.
Bastille: Or point forward succession of very small and equal stitches that always go forward.
Point of side: It is the current point of the hems, which is made from right to left, taking at the same time the threads of the fabric and a stitch on the edge of the hem.
Corner Point: It is used to join two fabrics by their edges or edges, to glue the lace and to finish off the edges of the seams, preventing them from unraveling.
Lost Point: Stitch where the edge of the bass rises a little where you have to sew and alternately pick up some threads of the fabric and a larger stitch inside the edge of the hem, the thread is stretched every 3 or 4 stitches.
Union Point: It is used to join two edges of fabric without mounting one on the other and is done by taking a stitch alternately on each side, driving the needle underneath and pulling it over. It is done vertically from bottom to top.
Scapular point or Crusader: Stitch that is made from right to left, selected a stitch in the hem and another one less deep in the fabric. It is used in tailoring to replace the normal hem in too thick fabric fabrics.
Ódigos indicadores: A point that is made from top to bottom and vice versa and right to leftmical, nailing the needle horizontally. It is used to chop the interlining of lapels and necks. It is an elastic point that yields easily, which allows to shape these pieces with the iron.
Eyelet Point: Stitch that is used to finish the edges of the eyelets. The stitches should be small and close together and the knots should be tightly contoured, forming a kind of cord
around the edge.
Hilván: Stitch that serves to join two fabrics that have to be sewn to mark brands etc. It is like the "draft" of the seam and thanks to it you can do all kinds of tests and trials before the final stitching of a garment.
In our next blog, we will continue with the second part of the most important notes of sewing and confection.
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