A LITTLE WATERMELON KNOWLEDGE FOR @FARMS

Everybody appears to love delicious watermelon in the mid year. Indigenous to Africa, melons require warm temperatures (up to 80°F amid the day) and a long developing season.
Nursery workers in colder atmospheres can at present have achievement in developing watermelon vines by beginning seeds inside and picking short-season assortments. Days to development go from 70 to 90, contingent upon the assortment.

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PLANTING

If you live in hotter climes, you can sow seeds straightforwardly outside, yet hold up until the dirt temperature warms to no less than 70°F to dodge poor germination.
Watermelon vines are exceptionally delicate and ought not be transplanted until the point when all peril of ice has passed. (To be sheltered, hold up no less than two weeks past your last ice date.)
On the off chance that you are in a cooler zone, begin seeds inside about multi month before transplanting.
Change soil with matured fertilizer, kelp, or potentially compost before planting. Watermelons are substantial feeders. Take in more about soil corrections and getting ready soil for planting.
Watermelons favor a dirt pH in the vicinity of 6 and 6.8.

Developing the vines in raised lines, known as slopes, guarantees great seepage and will hold the sun's warmth longer. Space the plants around 2 feet separated in a 5 broad slope.
In case you're developing in columns, space 6 feet by 6 feet separated.
Watermelons like loamy, very much depleted soil. Handle them tenderly when you transplant.
After you transplant, cover the plants with push spreads to keep bothers under control. You'll evacuate the column covers when you see both male and female blossoms on the vine.
Find much more tips for planting watermelon in your home garden.

CARE OF WATERMELONS

• Mulching with dark plastic will fill various needs: it will warm the dirt, obstruct weed development, and continue creating organic products clean.
  Watering is critical—from planting until the point when natural product starts to frame. While melon plants are developing, sprouting, and setting natural product, they require 1 to 2 crawls of water for each week.
  Keep soil clammy, however not waterlogged. Water at the vine's base early in the day, and attempt to abstain from wetting the leaves and maintain a strategic distance from overhead watering. Lessen watering once organic product are developing. Dry climate delivers the sweetest melon.
  On the off chance that you treat (and numerous do), ensure it conveys more nitrogen than phosphorus and potassium. Be that as it may, in the wake of blooming starts, utilize a manure with less nitrogen. We get a kick out of the chance to utilize fluid ocean growth.

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• Pruning isn't important, however vine profitability might be enhanced on the off chance that you don't permit horizontal (side) vines to develop and adhere to the primary vine. At the point when the plant is youthful, simply removed the end buds as they shape (before the side shoots progress toward becoming vines). You can likewise squeeze off a few blooms to concentrate the vitality on less melons (however it's a test to execute off a potential natural product).
  Vines create male and female blossoms independently on a similar plant. They frequently start delivering male blooms half a month prior to the females show up. Try not to be concerned if the male blossoms tumble off. The female blossoms (which have a swollen globule at the construct) will remain with respect to the vine and prove to be fruitful.
  Blooms expect fertilization to set natural product, so be benevolent to the honey bees!
  As natural product is maturing, avoid decaying by delicately lifting it and putting cardboard or straw between the foods grown from the ground soil.

NATURAL PESTS/DISEASES

• Aphids

• Cucumber Beetles

• Squash Vine Borer Moths

• Fusarium Wilt

WATERMELON HARVEST/STORAGE

Watermelons don't sweeten after they are picked, so gather time is imperative. They by and large age more than two weeks so watch out for them.

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Dr. Bill Rhodes, teacher of agriculture at Clemson University, offers the accompanying exhortation on the most proficient method to tell if watermelons are ready:

Pound it. On the off chance that the watermelon sounds empty, it's ready.

Take a gander at the shading on the best. The watermelon is ready when there is little differentiation between the stripes.

Take a gander at the shading on the base. A green watermelon will have a white base; a ready melon will have a cream-or yellow-shaded base.

Press on it. In the event that the watermelon sounds like it gives somewhat, it's ready. (Rhodes doesn't care for this technique since it can destroy the nature of the organic product.)

Check the ringlet. If that it's green, pause. If that it's half-dead, the watermelon is about ready or ready. On the off chance that the ring is completely dead, it's ready or overripe; it won't get any riper, so you should pick!

Stems ought to be cut with a sharp blade near the natural product.

Watermelons can be put away whole for around 10 days. In the event that cut, they can toward the end in the fridge for around 4 days. Wrap firmly in plastic.

PREFERRED VARIETIES

• 'Sugar Baby': 80 days to development. Produces 10-pound melons with splendid red tissue. This assortment of littler organic product can be planted only 4 feet separated.

• 'Sweet Beauty': 80 days to development. A 2004 All-America Selection. Bears 6-pound, elliptical melons with red tissue.

• 'Brilliant Midget': 70 days to development. Bears petite, yellow-cleaned 3-pound melons with pink substance. Useful for Northern planters.