Table of Contents:

• What tarantine for a beginner?
• Terrarium and its equipment.
• Feeding the tarantula.
• Molt.
• What to do when the tarantula bites?
• What to do if the tarantula will expel the burning hairs?
• A few words from me.

What tarantine for a beginner?

The tarantula for the budding breeder should be calm, slow, poorly venomous (venom comparable to bee venom), resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations. However, most species will brush Italian hair on what you should be careful, but it's best to simply not upset the spider. As the first spider, it is best to choose terrestrial species, because underground tarantulas and arboreal spiders are fast, aggressive and certainly not suitable for the first arachnid, because they can cause problems.
I personally recommend such species as:

• A. geniculata: an interestingly colored tarantula and very popular among breeders; easily available and cheap; voracious so that the beginner will not be worried about the fact that his tarantula does not want to eat; aggressive individuals occur; it grows fast.
• N. chromatus: similar to A. geniculata, but grows a bit smaller.
• Ch. cyaneopubescens: very nicely colored tarantula; he has a gentle attitude; difficult to reproduce; lots of spiderwebs.
• L. parahybana: large tarantula; it grows fast; An aggressive individual may happen, but most often stop at an impending posture.
• Brachypelma spp.: Unfortunately, they grow slowly, but they compensate with a very nice coloration; some hardly available in Poland; they have a poor appetite.
• G. rosea: very nicely colored; likes to take long fasts; grows slowly enough; sometimes there are aggressive individuals, but most often they have a mild attitude.
• C. elegans: an interestingly colored tarantula; is unfortunately small; a beginner may have a feeding problem
  

Terrarium and its equipment.

Dimensions of the terrarium:
It is best to keep the young person in a suitably smaller container / terrarium, as the larger one may have a feeding problem. In a small container we also have a better visibility of the tarantula and we know what is happening to it, etc. In the large terrarium, however, we would have limited visibility. Typically, young tarantulas are kept in transparencies, urine containers or in small containers, e.g. a salad. We keep the podoles in a sufficiently large room. Usually, faunaboxes (plastic terrariums) or small glass terrariums (eg 10x10x10cm) are used. Adults are best kept in normal terraria (usually glass), for sure such a glass terrarium looks much nicer in a room than a plastic container. For most terrestrial species, a terrarium with dimensions of 30x30x30cm is enough.

Terrarium equipment:
The terrarium should have the right amount of substrate (most often it is coconut peat / coconut fiber, because it best maintains moisture), hideout and a small bowl with water (helps to keep the humidity).
These are the most needed things.
In klliszówkach and tiny containers the hideout is unnecessary.

Decoration:
People who do not care about the general appearance of the terrarium use the minimum of "decoration", that is, in addition to the ground, it is usually one hideout. Nothing wrong with this is because the tarantula has the right conditions, especially if the breeder has a lot of spiders.
However, if someone chooses a more accurate interior design terrarium is best to do it in the "climate" of the tarantula, or how a given species comes from eg the equatorial forest, the terrarium decoration also resembles the equatorial forest. Such a terrarium is always more attractive to the eye and additionally nicely "decorates" the room.

Helpful instruments:
Hygrometer - to measure humidity, in small containers we check the humidity "by eye".
Thermometer - to measure the temperature (I think everyone knows what it is for, but as it is written, it writes everything;]). In small containers it is not used because there is no place to put it. A lot of people also keep tarantulas at room temperature, which does not hurt them, only they grow slowly.
Syringe - needed to "spray" the container (used mainly in small terrariums / containers), needed because in small containers the sprayer instead of keeping the right humidity in one part of the container would simply be mud, and the humidity would be too high.
Washer - just like a syringe, needed to spray a larger terrarium (spray one part).
Tweezers - for feeding and "chasing away" tarantulas, preferably if it was about 30cm.

Lighting:
Tarantula do not need additional lighting, but if someone wants to have easier observation of the arachnid at night, it is best to use red light, which the tarantula can not see.

Heating:
The temperature in the terrarium depends on the species, but many people breeding tarantulas do not use additional heating and the animals are kept at room temperature, if this does not fall below 18 * (and ideally if it was a minimum of 20 *). Then the tarantula develops slower.
The terrarium is usually heated with a heating cable / mat or bulb with adequate power. The cable or mat is best spread only on half of the terrarium so that the spider can choose the place where he wants to stay. The cable / mat should not be put inside the terrarium only outside and secured, because a lot of tarantulas when it wants to cool is buried in the ground, and when, for example, the heating cable is placed in the ground, the effect is reversed, the animal can also get burned, so preferably place the mat / cable on one of the side walls of the terrarium.

Humidity:
Appropriate humidity can be maintained thanks to the location in the terrarium bowl with water and spraying the terrarium. As in the case of heating, it is best to spray half the terrarium - then the tarantine chooses the part in which he wants to stay.
In small containers, a syringe is used for this, in large, usually sprays (eg for windows: of course, instead of liquid there is water).
Be careful not to make mud. In addition to the top parts of the terrarium, you also need to spray the substrate layers. Peat or coconut fiber maintains moisture very well, so it is also a common substrate used by growers.

Ventilation:
In order not to have a mold in the terrarium, ventilation holes should be made. You must also do them in the right places so that there is no draft, i.e., for example, on one wall of the terrarium, the holes are at the top and the other at the bottom.

Sprzątanie:
Wyposażenie terrarium jak i podłoże najlepiej jest wymieniać i dokładnie czyścić co pół roku. A codziennie sprawdzać czy przypadkiem nie ma nieproszonych gości (czyt. pasożyty itd.) oraz po każdym karmieniu sprzątać resztki nie zjedzonej karmówki.
Podczas sprzątania należy ptasznika przenieść do innego pojemnika (najlepiej robić to za pomocą pincety), po czym wyczyścić dokładnie dekoracje oraz terrarium i wymienić podłoże na nowe.

Nutrition.

What size should be a feeder and what to feed a tarantula:
The amount of food should be adapted to the size of the tarantula. It is assumed that the feeder can not be larger than the body of the spider.
Young tarantulas can be fed with the hatching of cricket, karaczan and cut millworm's larvae, as a last resort you can feed them with pinks. Adults are given crickets, cockroaches and locusts.
When it comes to insects caught outdoors, only those that have been caught away from contaminants are suitable for feeding the tarantula.
Do not give vertebrate to a dog (for example, a mouse), because it can even lead to the death of an animal (tarantula).

What how much to feed a tarantula:
There is no rule as to giving food to a spider, e.g. every two days. The frequency of feeding depends on us and the size of the food we feed. You can feed the tarantula every day, but it is worth remembering that in this way it accelerates its metabolism, which is synonymous with the fact that it will live shorter.
After some time, we will know how much to feed our tarantula.
Some species (such as Grammostola rosea or Brachypelma smithi) like to take long fasts. This is normal behavior, most often the tarantula is not hungry or it is before moulting. The reason can also be a large terrarium.
One should also pay attention to overfeeding the spider, which may result in mechanical injuries (a decrease from a higher height), thus even death of the animal.

Molt

Signs of exuvia:

• the tarantula becomes slow
• does not accept food
• more spider webs or hides in the hideout
• its coloration is getting darker
• the abdomen becomes shiny, "fat"
• before dropping the old skin the tarantula is lying on the upper side of the carapace

How to ease the tarantula passage of moult:
When we see the first signs of moult we should raise the humidity in the terrarium, so there is little probability that part of the moult will stay on the body of the tarantula.

What to do when the tarantula did not finish completely:
Usually, the old skin will fall off after a few days, but if this does not happen, gently remove the subline with tweezers so as not to damage the tarantula.

After moult:
After moulting, the tarantula should not be stressed or food should not be given to him (adult individuals should not eat at least two weeks after having been exuded). After dropping the old skin the spider is delicate and a small injury could end badly for him.

What does the tarantula pass through the moult:
The frequency of the exuviae depends on the size of the tarantula species. Juveniles undergo moulting more often than adults.

When the tarantula reaches maturity:
The speed of maturity also depends on the species. Females usually mature about 2 moults later than males, which usually reach maturity after 9-11 moult and are ready for breeding.

What to do when the tarantula bites?
When the tarantula first bites, do not panic, because it causes faster distribution of venom in the body. If you are not allergic to poison bee or wasp, then you are less likely to be allergic to the tarantula's venom (but this is NOT the rule) then you should drink lime and it is best to go to the doctor (tetanus prophylaxis).
Bites of certain species (such as, for example, Grammostola spp. Or Brachypelma spp.) For non-sensitized people are harmless, but different complications may arise in allergic individuals. A person being bitten can not drink alcohol, because it can worsen the case even more.
A sensitized person should consider a hundred times and more over breeding a tarantula and be especially careful (even a non-sensitized person must follow certain "rules and rules" when breeding these animals).

What to do if the tarantula combs the Italian scalding?

Italian scalding can cause unpleasant, strong reaction, and allergies may cause swelling or blisters. The worst, however, is when the hair gets into the eyes or the respiratory system - they can cause severe irritations that last for a long time.
If symptoms do not pass after about a week, please go to the doctor.
When the tarantula stops the hair, do not scratch and rub the irritated spot, because in this way we move the hairs burning in other places and we dig deeper into the hair.
The irritated place is best washed with running water and the non-stuck hairs will be removed. However, they will be driven until the skin is peeled off, usually it lasts for two days.
If we feel itching or burning, we can use ointment for irritation or holidays. If you notice swelling, you can also use an allergy medication (eg Calcium) or an ointment containing glucocorticoids.
If the inflamed hair gets into the respiratory system it can help to eat something (preferably some delicate soup, such as broth), so that the irritation will decrease. However, if there are any difficulties, please go to the doctor.
If the hair gets into your eye, wash it with plenty of running water and do not rub it. Italians should be rinsed or, in time, should be removed from the eye with tears. For a long time, the eye aches, it is possible that the inflamed hairs have stuck in and have not been rinsed out, then you should go to an ophthalmologist.
Italian brewing can be compared to glass particles.

A few words from me:

In my opinion, there is no point in buying a tarantula if you are not interested in them. They are animals for observation, not for carrying on their hands or for bragging to friends. The fact of the fact that some mild species can be taken on the hands, but it does not mean that you can do it often, because it is a big stress for the tarantula. Not to mention this when the animal performs a more violent movement and the person may get scared which is synonymous with the fact that the tarantula can fall from a great height and die.
Tarantula are not toys, so if you want to buy a pet to cuddle or brag to your friends, buy a hamster.
And it is worth remembering that although they are mild, non-aggressive species it is still a poisonous animal.