RE: Where on Wednesday twenty: House hill ruins
I will try the dry fire, I have a laser that will fit in the chamber, so I can watch the effects of my breathing and trigger action.
I will work out breathing timing for smooth trigger action with dry fire drills.
I am reading a book on long distance shooting. I have taken deer out to 450 yards, and would like to extend that by half. I will not get many shots longer than that here.
The 300WM hits those velocities with the 200 grain points, and 3100 with the 165 grain points. It does let you know when you pull the trigger, LOL!
The Ballistic coefficient seems to be the aerodynamic efficiency of the specific bullet, I have to study that more. It seems that these are .495 to .670 in this rifle. Is it higher means less drop from air friction, or is it delivered energy? Is higher better?
A new upper on the .223 would convert it to a 300 Blackout. The 243 is a good round, but not one I have. I am thinking about the 6.5mm, because I like it in my Swedish Mauser. A separate 308 upper would make it more useful, that round I have and like.
A .250" MOA is amazing, I need to get there for sure. When I get this job done in the shop, I need to go to the range, LOL! YOU are a bad influence....
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Yes, the higher the number the less drag on the bullet.
I've been called a bad influence before...I yam what a yam. 😃
I'm very happy with 6.5CM and at ranged of up to 1000m (1093 yards) it is deadly...Past that it's is still deadly and at about 1400m (1531 yards) is bloody awesome still...The problem comes in finding a scope able to keep up with it...Most cheaper scopes don't track that well...What I mean is that as one gets up to the higher dial-ranges each click is not exactly commensurate to the measurement. So with my Kahles 624i for instance each click is 0.1 MRAD...It does this all the way out to 26MRAD accurately. With some inferior scopes that 0.1 varies and brings inaccuracy.
At distance that means one could be dialling the incorrect input for the shot. Make sense?
Also whether the scope is level or not makes a difference. I sent a link to a post I did about scope levelling...Worth a read if you haven't got your head around it.
What book are you reading?
I understand non-linearity in scope adjustments, I fear my scope is just a $300 one and likely has that problem.
I read that post, and I will add the scope leveler, I just never thought about that. I do lock up with a good leather sling, but I only have one Bipod, it's on the M1A1
You are working out further that I, but I hope to catch up, LOL!
When I get the AR-10 going, I will add the 6.5 Creedmore to the 308.
I will get the title, basically the Author is a long range competitive shooter. Hmmmm, is it you?
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If it's not this one then get this one on your list. I've read it 6 times, taken note after note...I keep it on the bedside table.
It's not, so I will get this one too. I appreciate it!
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It's a good one. Take it slow, take notes and it will help you a lot.
Bought it, I will digest it! Thanks.
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Cool!
I got bogged down on mass reloading data in the other book. I already reload....
Most of the levels mount on the central diameter of the scope. Looking around the eyepiece defeats the purpose.
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