Andorra: Country of mountains and mountaineers

If this country has made itself known above all for its zero-rated zone with cheap brands, alcohol and cigarettes, it is far from the shops and its bling-bling image with what Andorra has opened its doors to us. 'A country of mountains and hard-working mountaineers' is what Bruno, our guide kept repeating.

An accompanying guide for 20 years, he has watched the country metamorphose, site changes and mentalities evolve or even deviate 'as if a worker won the lottery overnight'. Ah! Bruno, a trip of his own! I think if we would have wanted a complete guide, we wouldn't have found it. Always eager to discover his mountains and share his knowledge, Bruno is as passionate, erudite and generous as he is stubborn, attaching and very Catalan. Bruno has the flaws of his qualities but it is true and all this sincerity that explodes in your face also touched me.

I had no idea what to expect in terms of hiking but I certainly didn't think I would be this surprised and charmed. It's crazy as in such a small space, the landscapes can be so varied: snow-covered summits, green valleys, rocky peaks, torrents and glacial lakes... Add to that a slight variation of temperature from +25°C to -4°C and you will understand why it's easy to be surprised. Incidentally, I arrived at the top of the Pic de Casamanya and its 2740 meters, I thought I was going to lose my fingers as the wind was blowing strong and cold.

Hiking in the Pic de Casamanya

On the first day, we started hard and I got scared when the breath quickly became short. I had simply forgotten that we started at 2000 meters, we don't improvise Isard Catalan. A little time of adaptation is always necessary.
The ascent of the Casamanya Peak is a classic trekking in Andorra. The pretty passage through the forest in the shade of the hooked pines quickly gave way to a horror vision, a constant climb as far as the eye can see. Two and a half hour later, the reward is present and from there the panorama is pretty crazy. Andorra is almost at our feet. You can see the city in the distance but also the peak of Comapedrosa, the highest peak in Andorra with its 2,942 m altitude or the Pica d' Estates, the roof of Catalonia.

Hiking at the Pessons circus

The second day, we left in the direction the circus of Pessons and its lakes abound. Bruno had sold it to us as a must, one of the most beautiful places to visit and it was my favourite day.
Lakes thaw, streams and narcissus watch their reflection. We are at the end of May and little by little nature recovers its rights. After a long journey of ridges, we finally reach the Estany del Cap de Pessons. Hallelujah is a string of lakes open to us and a superb point of view on the Ensagents Valley and the high peaks of the region.
The descent is fast. Is it the olive oil salad with pasta (yes in this order) that makes the mechanics easier or the promise of a relaxing moment at the Inuu thermal centre that makes us hurry up?

Balneo experience in Caldea and Inuu-bliable massage

Back in Andorra la Vella, it's time to make a fresh start.
On the programme: thermal baths, sauna, chromatic showers, hammam, spa, jacuzzi... We should be good! Sleek futuristic decoration, the place is sublime, super Zen and you have to admit it all the more appreciable after a few hours of walking in the legs.
We sunbathe in the outdoor baths followed by an energetic massage. All the tensions go away, the smell of argan oil, rocks and me...I think that I should do this more often. Can I take a massage hike tomorrow?

Hiking in the Madriu Valley

The last day of the day is spent discovering the Madriu Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
With its stone paths, terraced fields and pastoral habitats, time seems to have stopped here. Our U-shaped itinerary takes us through forests, rivers and a deep valley on a path dotted with walls and dry stones. If I liked the first leg very much, I wouldn't say as much about the return trip with the landscape in the back and its passageways between scree rocks (no risk but not necessarily the most pleasant).

In the end, this small country in the heart of the Pyrenees has a lot to offer and turns out to be much more than a shopping street. Andorra was a voyage of contrasts with the image of its landscapes, its rustic-chic atmosphere and its captivating guide! A must for mountain lovers.

A big thank you to Bruno Marin our super guide and the happy Virginie, Gérard, Eugénie, Oliver, Stéphanie and Bernard troop for the aches and pains of laughter.
Without having to leave very far, think about Andorra for your next hikes and find the complete itinerary on this hiking-balneo stay in Andorra on the Allibert Trekking site. More information to organize your next trip to Andorra on the website of the Tourist Office of Andorra.