Distant Islands

Being based on the west coast of Portugal every summer I tend to shoot rather too many sunsets over the sea with a small group of islands visible in the far distance. When viewed from the beach these islands appear to be a long way off, but in fact they're only about 10km out to sea from the tip of Cabo Carvoeiro, the westernmost point of the Peniche peninsula.

Not much more than a short boat ride away.

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There are four islands, Berlenga Grande, Estelas, Farilhões and Forcados and together they form the Arquipélago das Berlengas (Berlengas Archipelago). The largest, Berlenga Grande, rises 88m above sea level and is the only one with a limited human presence that consists of a harbour, campsite, lighthouse and the Forte de São João Baptista (Fort of St. John the Baptist) which is now used as a hotel during the summer.

At the marina in Peniche boat operators do a brisk trade in day trip tickets to the island.

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The trip typically takes about 45minutes and, due to the tides, tends to be a little rougher on the outbound trip. Bring your seasickness tablets!

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After a short trip the boat docks in the tiny harbour on Berlangas Grande.

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The harbour has warm, shallow turquoise waters and a small beach that the sun beats down on until late afternoon when the towering granite cliffs on either side cast it into deep shadow.

It’s a great spot to grab a spot of lunch after the boat trip (if your stomach is up to it!) before setting off to explore the island.

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The best way to explore the shallow waters, caves and rock formations of the island is to take another boat ride to the Forte.

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This rock formation is known as “A Baleia” (The Whale).

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…and this one is “O Elefante” (The Elephant).

There are several caves on the island, most notably the “Gruta Azul” (Blue Grotto) which, when the sun hits at a certain angle, lights up the sea with a blue glow inside the darkness of the cave.

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The Forte de São João Baptista is linked to the island by a steep set of stairs and a narrow causeway.

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You’ll have to climb these to get back to the harbour, but the view back towards the Forte is not to be missed.

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The view from the lighthouse at the top of the steps back towards Peniche and the silver coast is also very much worth the effort of the climb.

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A long, dusty path leads you back to the camping area high above the harbour, one of the few places on the island where you can stay overnight.

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For the unlucky ones without an overnight pass it’s back to the boat and the mainland.

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The return trip is usually a lot smoother (and quicker) than the outbound, offering just a quick chance to grab a few last shots of the islands as they receed back into the distance.

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Equipment Used

• Nikon D7000
• Tokina 12-24 f/4
• Nikon 18-55
• Nikon 55-200
• CPL
• Adobe Lightroom

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