Art and Mystery on the Saint-Jacque’s Way: Palencia, Santa Eufemia de Cozuelos

in travelfeed •  2 months ago 

Apart from the remarkable elegance in its line and proportion, I recognize that one of the details that struck me most of this monastic church -now converted into private property and hostelry- were the fields of sunflowers that, in full expansion at the beginning of August, they gave an unforgettable image to the place.
Image that was encouraged, of course, when the next day we were allowed to visit the interior, which, although guided, did not prevent us from enjoying this marvel of Palencia's Romanesque art.
In this sense, and before continuing describing my impressions of the place, I would like to say that I agree and I am pleased with the opinion of Julio César Izquierdo Pascua (1) when praising the excellent state of conservation in which his current owners.
That said, that in a way justifies a claim in favor of the care and preservation of our rich and irreplaceable historical-artistic patromine, we can continue commenting on the existence of written documentation that, going back to the XII century (year 1075), already mentions this venerable monastery, barely distant a few kilometers from Olmos de Ojeda, and not too far from a city of certain relevance, such as Aguilar de Campóo.
Some authors tend to compare their style with other emblematic temples of the province, such as San Martín de Frómista, located on the pilgrimage route, which show elements related to the conceptionist models of the Camino de Santiago.
Of the importance in times of the place, the tomb of the Infanta Doña Sancha Alfonso, daughter of Alfonso IX of León and Do6na Teresa of Portugal, gives account that entered like freila santiaguista, having fame of sanctity, remaining in the place until its death.
Noteworthy, likewise, is another sarcophagus, which shows as decorative detail an eagle with outstretched wings, belonging, as it is said, to an unknown knight-a similar detail, we can find it in San Martín de Elines- although important, it seems , who, hypothetically speaking, could hold a position of certain relevance within the Order of Santiago.
On the other hand, one of the details that most attract attention in a visit to the interior, is possibly the wood carving of the titular head, which as the inscription in the back of the image says (2) ), was made by the sculptor José Rodríguez (Pepe de Arganda) and replaces the Gothic image of the thirteenth century that was lost in the fire that occurred in 1982.
Not far from this, and placed in a niche of the wall, there is also a small, modern reproduction of a black virgin that, due to its characteristics, reminds us of another black virgin of Asturian origin: Santa Eulalia de Oscos.
Within the imagery displayed by the medieval stonemasons in the motifs of the capitals and corbels - it should be noted, a canecillo located outside, in the apse, which represents a contortionist - can be mentioned, to give an example of the most relevant -or at least, I think so-the one that defines a typically yin-yang concept, with two hooded harp confronting each other.
Or that other, very curious, without a doubt, that represents a rider riding a beast-judging by the claws of the legs-and that could well be a reference to that Celtic myth of the swan knight or cignatus, on the that the so-called knight of the medieval apocalypse may be based.
Interesting for the quality of its execution, are some of the few capitals of the disappeared cloister, in particular those two that represent an Adoration and a Resurrection, respectively, to which we would have to add another one that, although of different themes, shows an animal trapped between lianas of vegetation.
Also worth mentioning are some remains that offer, from my point of view, a pre-Romanesque perspective, based on Celtic or Visigoth motifs, such as six-petalled flowers and representations of solar nature, swastika-like in some cases.

Notes, References and Bibliography:

(1) Julio César Izquierdo Pascua: 'Romanesque routes in the province of Palencia', Castilla Ediciones, 2001
(2) 'Santa Eufemia, owner of this church, replaces the Gothic carving of the 13th century, which was grass of the flames on January 18, 1982. This image was carved by the sculptor José Rodríguez (Pepe de Arganda)'.

NOTICE: Originally published in my blog ROMÁNICA, ENIGMAS DEL ROMÁNICO ESPAÑOL. Both the text and the photographs that accompany it are my exclusive intellectual property. The original entry, where you can check the authorship of juancar347, can be found at the following address:

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[Martial, latin poet]

Ars vtinam more Animvm qve effingere. Posses pulchrior in ter. Ris nvlla tabella foret.
Arte Ojala pudieras representar. el carácter y el espíritu. No habría sobre la tierra. Imagen más bella

mariposas-1 (1).jpg

@Tximeleta tiene nuevos retos.
Toca la imagen y participa.
Diviértete y disfruta.


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Great photos! Spain is a very beautiful country and the route along the Camino de Santiago has wonderful landscapes!

Congratulations on being featured by @stever82 in an entry for the Pay It Forward Contest

Thanks, friend

Great post with some good info. The pictures are all good also. I have featured it in the Pay it Forward Contest

Grateful. The important thing is that all these places, many of them unknown to the general public, have a voice and that these voices, with their support, help to keep them in the best condition, as the great historical, artistic and cultural legacy that they really are. Cordial greetings

What a remarkable church; your photos are beautiful and the write-up is very informative! Thank you for sharing such quality here with us :) and thank you to @stever82 for featuring your post in his Pay it Forward Curation contest entry too!

Thank-you very much, my friend. Greetings

Love the way you are showing us the cool old style architecture and beauty in these places keep them coming


Thank you very much. In fact, I am the grateful one, because this allows me to show with the best of pride, the cultural and artistic richness of my country. Cordial greetings

That is so kind of you to say :) have a great day and weekend ;)

I could not agree with you more if I tried! It has such remarkable elegance and I love the rounded exterior lines. Monasteries are always amazing places and not always because of their structures but because of what they truly mean. How fortunate that they converted this into a different venue and saved this exceptional Romanesque building. The entire structure is in the shape of a Latin cross and they have such unusual carved motifs just like the one that is in the chess boards.

So much that is still intact and it had such an excellent state repair. I even all of the preservation because as you said B6 are irreplaceable in their historical sense and I did not realize how far back this existed! That makes me even more amazed! Your pictures are absolutely stunning and I am so happy that you took the time to share your pictures and your words with us.

I have never ventured to your profile but I have followed you, hoping to find more amazing work when I go there to check you out.

Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful post with us. As always, I wish you a most wonderful night.

Upped and steemed

@tip 1.00

Thank you very much for your kind comment, because it encourages us to continue an arduous task, in which I have been involved for many years. I feel grateful, because for years I have traveled many roads of my country, faced many difficulties, invested effort, time and money to show the world part of the historical, artistic and cultural wealth of my country. A work and an effort, which has not always been compensated (and I am not only referring to economic matters), but which has brought me pleasant moments. This building, in fact Romanesque, still conserves in its plant, apart from the Latin cross, as they used to be generally all, remains of the old basic Visigothic constructions, that in some way is demonstrating, also, the evolution of the Art in those supposed periods of the History. Thank you so much again.

I can assure you that the pleasure is all mine! Thank you for all of your hard work on this!

Thank-you very much

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Thank-you very much

I really like that church - especially the exterior is very nice to look at :)

Thank-you very much. An interesting and beautiful place

Wow, absolutely amazing photograph.I really like this picture

Thanks, friend

Tiene cara de buena gente la doña!

No sé yo qué decirte, a veces las apariencias engañan

stunning pics! I'm sure that place had tons to offer any photographer and you didn't have to search far for inspiration

I certainly agree with you. In reality, and from a general perspective, these types of places offer really beautiful photographs without costing another effort to focus correctly. The good, however, comes when one has the opportunity to enter into it. It is there where the difficulty really begins, because it is necessary to look for the best angles, to experiment with the contrasts of the shadow and the light and also sometimes, when certain dates allow it, those tricks' or special effects of the time', as I call them, with which the medieval stonemasons endowed some of the capitals so that they were illuminated, playing with the faith of the believers. I mean by this, that the real practice of photography, in this kind of places, starts from the inside out. Cordial greetings and thank you very much for your comment.

Beautiful post @juancar347. The pictures are amazing and great write up. Wonderful history. It is amazing to see a structure this old in such fantastic condition.

You were featured in week 66 of @pifc's Pay It Forward Curation Contest by @Stever82. @pifc is a Pay It Forward Community which believes in by helping others grow we build a stronger community. We run this contest each week, it is open to everyone. It's a great way to show off people you find that might need some more exposure, meet new people, and possibly win some SBI for you and your features.

Thank-you very much

Beautiful post. I love exploring old churches. They're such amazing places!
I found you thanks to @stever82 featuring you in the Pay it Forward Curation Contest. Keep up the great work!

Thank-you very much


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