美国西部: 炫彩的荒漠|American West: Colorful desert

in #travel6 years ago

走过祖国的西部,大漠孤烟,长河落日,雪域雄鹰,草原骏马,是壮美河山的形象写照,也是人类精神的物化体现。现在,我把目光投射到地球上更多的“西部”。看过一些美国的“西部影片”,了解他们的“西进运动”,更期待直接感受那边的西部光影。而开阔的场景、粗犷的线条、变幻的光影、绚丽的色块,则是摄影爱好者们的盛宴。
Walking through the western part of the motherland, the solitary smoke in the desert, the sunset in the river, the eagle in the snow field, and the steep steppe are portraits of the magnificent rivers and mountains as well as the materialized embodiment of the human spirit.Now, I cast my eyes on more "western" Earth.Read some American "western films" to understand their "westward movement" and look forward to directly feeling the light and shadow of the west over there.The open scene, rough lines, changing light and shadow, brilliant color, it is a feast for photographers.

带着猎奇的眼光,更怀揣探究的心思,走进了那边的西部。
With a curious eyes, but also carries the exploration of the mind, into the west over there.


炫彩的西部,一路“巡视”布莱斯峡谷、锡安国家公园、羚羊峡谷、马蹄湾、科罗拉多大峡谷,饱览西部雪山森林、荒漠绝色。
Colorful west, all the way "Tour" Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park, Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bay, Grand Canyon, enjoy the snow-capped mountains in the west, the desert stunning.


从西雅图坐美国阿拉斯加航空的飞机抵达盐湖城。这里是犹他州的首府和最大城市。这座内陆小城的现代化程度,还是超出了我的预想。
原本以为,那里只有湖水和盐巴。
From Seattle, take a plane from Alaska Airlines to Salt Lake City.This is Utah's capital and largest city.The level of modernization of this inland town is still beyond my expectation.Originally thought, there was only lake and salt.


现在的盐湖城有“西部十字路口”的别称。都市区是美国重要的金融中心、商业中心及度假胜地之一,也是西部诸多观光小镇及国家公园的入口。
出城不远就领略到了西部景观。一路车拍,权当收集“西洋镜”。
Salt Lake City is now the "Western Crossroads," another name.The metropolitan area is one of the major financial centers, business centers and resorts in the United States, and is also the gateway to many tourist towns and national parks in the west.Not far from the city to appreciate the western landscape.Car all the way, right when collecting "Western mirror."


公路边的加油站。车子都很牛。
一位司机大叔冲着我翘起大拇指,不知是得意他的车,还是表彰我现场记录的敬业精神。其实他没明白,我这是坐车久了活动活动腿脚。
Highway side of the gas station.The car is very cattle.A driver uncle tilted at me, I do not know is proud of his car, or to honor my professional record of the scene.In fact, he did not understand, this is my car activities long legs.


布莱斯峡谷公园大门附近的餐馆用餐,混在老美人堆里排队、候餐,品味当地餐饮特色。
这是一家有百年历史的汽车旅馆,大堂装修很有西部情调。我的午餐还算超值,在餐馆里拍到了一些有关西部环境的画面。
Restaurants near the gates of Bryce Canyon Park dining, lined up in the old bereavement, waiting for meals, taste the local restaurant features.This is a century-old motel, the lobby decoration has a western flavor.My lunch is still good value, in the restaurant photographed some pictures of the western environment.


这个画面让我想象起当年的西部拓荒。美国独立后掀起了长达一个多世纪的西进运动,大批移民出于不同的原因迁往西部。西进运动是美国拓宽疆土,吞并土地的行为,它开发了如今的美国西部地区,发展了国内经济,打破了自由州与蓄奴州的平衡,为南北战争的胜利打下了基础;同时也野蛮屠杀土著印第安人,消灭了众多印第安文明。
This picture reminds me of the western pioneers of that year.After its independence, the United States set off a westward movement that lasted for more than a century and a large number of immigrants moved to the west for different reasons.The Westward Move was a move by the United States to broaden its territory and annex its land. It developed today's western part of the United States, developed its domestic economy, broke the balance between free and slave-funded states and laid the foundation for the victory of the Civil War; at the same time it was barbarousSlaughtering indigenous Indians, eliminating many Indian civilizations.


美国西部荒漠上,演绎了多少血与泪的悲欢离合,也培育了可贵的开拓精神。
On the deserts of the western United States, it shows how much blood and tears of joys and sorrows have fostered a culture of pioneering spirit.


我们就餐的汽车旅店上世纪30年代的样子。
Our dining motel looks like the 1930s.


这是上世纪40年代的样子。
This is the style of the 1940s.


上世纪50年代的样子。
旅店主人如此有心地记录自家的发展史,就不仅仅理解为“商业套路”了。
Looks like the 1950s.Inn owners so carefully record the history of their own development, not just understood as "business routines."


百年旅店现在的样子。
一桩生意的延续和某种文化的传承,是可以互为表里的。
Hundred years hotel now look.The continuation of a business and the inheritance of a culture can be mutually supportive.


人家的历史还是让人家去反思。我们要去“望野眼”了。
People's history or let people to reflect on.We're going to "Wild Eye".


布莱斯峡谷国家公园,位于美国犹他州西南部的国家公园,其名字虽有峡谷一词,但其并非真正的峡谷,而是沿着庞沙冈特高原东面,由侵蚀而成的巨大自然“露天剧场”。这种侵蚀形成了众多精巧的、色彩缤纷的岩柱,可高达60多米。
Bryce Canyon National Park, located in the southwestern Utah National Park, the United States, although the name of the word canyon, but it is not a real canyon, but along the east of the Pangasin plateau, eroded from the hugeNatural "Amphitheater".This erosion creates numerous elaborate, colorful rock columns that can be as high as 60 meters.


这是入口。可以下去徒步,先下后上,一个半小时。虽属初级徒步,但是下去容易上来难,还有强烈的阳光一路“热情”陪伴。Are you ready? 反正,我下去时一溜小跑,半路上汗流浃背,上来时气喘吁吁,到终点几成“半干海参”。
主要是----太热、太红、太干!
This is the entrance.Can go on foot, first after the last, an hour and a half.Although the primary walking, but it is easy to go up difficult, there is a strong sunshine all the way "passion" to accompany.Anyway, I went trotting, sweating halfway, up breathless, to the end a few into a "semi-dried sea cucumber."Mainly ---- too hot, too red, too dry!


这是露天大剧场的大幕?
在西部强烈阳光的暴晒下,岩石的表面是像火一样的颜色。
This is the grand theater curtain?Under intense sun exposure in the west, the surface of the rock is a fire-like color.


这是大舞台?
从南至北,布莱斯峡谷连续迈上5大台阶,依次取名为巧克力崖、朱崖、白崖、灰崖、粉崖,它们一层层上升,露出30亿年的彩色沉积层。约6000万年以前,该地区淹没在水里,有一层由淤泥、沙砾和石灰组成的600米厚的沉积物。后来地壳运动使地面抬升。水逐渐排去,庞大的岩床在上升过程中裂成块状。
This is a big stage?From south to north, Bryce Canyon continuously climbs to 5 major steps, named chocolate cliffs, cliffs, white cliffs, gray cliffs and pink cliffs in succession. They rise layer by layer, revealing 3 billion years of colored sediments.About 60 million years ago, the area was submerged in water with a 600-m-thick deposit of silt, gravel and lime.Later crustal movement raised the ground.Water is gradually discharged, a huge rock bed in the process of rising into a block.


这是观众席?
这些岩柱由风、河流里的水与冰侵蚀和湖床的沉积岩组成,呈红、淡红、黄、白等60多种色度不同的颜色,加上光彩变幻,色泽金流溢彩,夺人眼目。
This is the auditorium?These rocks are composed of winds, water and ice erosion in the rivers and sedimentary rocks in the lake bed. There are more than 60 different colors, red, pink, yellow and white,Eye-catching.


这是观众们?
1875年,苏格兰拓荒者埃比尼泽·布莱斯定居于此,并在峡谷底部建立了一个牧场,这里也因此得名。
This is the audience?In 1875, Ebnizzei Bryce, the pioneer of Scotland, settled here, and a ranch was established at the bottom of the canyon, hence the name here.


这是演出阵势?
怎么都是红彤彤一片?大剧场开足了红色灯光?
This is the performance battle?How are all glowing?Theater full of red lights?


精通地质学的“报幕员”解释:这里红色、橙色与白色的岩石形成的奇特自然景观,被誉为天然石俑的殿堂。
Proficient in the geology of the "newsagents" Explanation: here, the red, orange and white rocks form a strange natural landscape, known as the hall of natural stone figurines.


这是演员群像?
在这里目不转睛地拍照取景,眼睛会充血。给自己带上了墨镜,也给照相机镜头戴上了“墨镜”(偏振镜),蓝天白云的背景就会更突出。某人问,这些片子做过PS吗?老实交代:做过。不过不是加色彩,而是减红色。不然,太、太红了。
This is the actor group?Here intently taking photos, eyes will be congested.To bring their own sunglasses, but also to the camera lens put on "sunglasses" (polarizer), the background of blue sky and white clouds will be more prominent.Someone asked, these films ps done?Honest explanation: done.However, not add color, but the red.Otherwise, too, too red.


最后一幕,全场起立!大合唱!
The last scene, the audience rose!Chorus!


离开布莱斯峡谷向南,在犹他州内的15号公路上行驶。
美国的公路双号是东西向,单号是南北向。著名的66号公路横穿东西;1号公路沿西海岸纵贯南北。而15号公路北起蒙大拿州与加拿大的边界,南连加利福尼亚州的圣迭戈,全长2307公里。
Leave Bryce Canyon south on Route 15 within Utah.The United States highway double number is east-west, single number is north-south.The famous Route 66 traverses east-west; Route 1 runs north-south along the west coast.Route 15 north of Montana and Canada border, south of San Diego, California, a total length of 2307 km.


奔驰在辽阔荒芜的原野上,没见到西部影片里常见的“灰狗”大巴,一路上各种旅行车各秀风姿。
Benz in the vast deserted wilderness, did not see the common Western movie "Greyhound" bus, along the way all kinds of wagons beautiful show.


穿行美国西南部的莫哈维沙漠。这个美国最大的沙漠从南加州到内华达,从亚利桑那到犹他州,肆意蔓延了6万多平方公里。
虽然是非常荒凉的地方,但是公路两侧一望无际的荒漠上,遍布着高低错落的沙漠植被,虽然斑斑驳驳时露黄沙,还远远称不上绿色地毯,但它们毕竟已经牢牢植根于黄沙之中,在这里生存下来了,干热的沙漠风淫威顿失,肆虐的沙漠尘埃也没有了往昔的野性。
Travel through the Mojave Desert in the southwestern United States.The largest desert in the United States, from southern California to Nevada, Arizona, to Utah, wantonly spread more than 60,000 square kilometers.Although it is a very desolate place, but the endless desert on both sides of the road, scattered in the level of scattered desert vegetation, although the mottled barbed yellow dew, far from the green carpet, but they are, after all, firmly rootedAmong the yellow sand, it survived here, and the hot and dry desert was deserted and the desert dust wreaked havoc was no longer wild.


如今地表已不再流动,飞沙难以形成,天空湛蓝,视野开阔,长途跋涉之后车辆并没有披上遮挡视线的灰尘。这就得益于人类治理沙漠的努力。他们从世界各地筛选出耐干旱的草木品种,经过反复地试种改进,培育出了一批生命力极强的抗干旱作物,用飞机把种子撒到沙漠里,其中就有从中国引进的骆驼刺和梭梭草,从非洲引进的约书亚树等沙漠植物。在1900年代,那里还是干旱的不毛之地,人迹罕至,现在穿行在荒漠公路上,天高地阔的西部能让心情飞扬起来。
Now the surface is no longer flowing, flying sand difficult to form, the sky blue, broaden their horizons, the vehicle did not put the dust blocking the line of sight after a long journey.This is due to human efforts to control the desert.They screened drought-resistant grass and wood varieties from all over the world. After repeated trials and improvements, they have cultivated a batch of highly-endurable drought-resistant crops. They sprinkled seeds into the desert with airplanes, among which camel's thornAnd desert velvet grass, Joshua trees and other desert plants introduced from Africa.In the 1900s, where there was still arid barren land, it was inaccessible. Now walking on the deserted highways, the high west of the sky made the mood flies.


犹他州西南部的锡安山国家公园,风景集中地是锡安山峡谷,主要特色为山谷,岩壁,河流,以色彩艳丽的峡谷著称于世。约有24公里长,宽不到1公里甚至仅有数米。我们的车在峡谷里蜿蜒而行,有时宽可观云,有时却只见一线蓝天。
Zion Mountain National Park in southwestern Utah, the scenery is concentrated in Zion Canyon, the main features of valleys, rock walls, rivers, colorful valleys known.About 24 km long, less than 1 km wide or even only a few meters.Our car meanders in the gorge, sometimes wide clouds, and sometimes saw a glimpse of the sky.


峡谷深达2000~3000米,谷壁陡直,几乎可与地面成垂直状态,险象环生,难以攀援,让人望而生畏。谷中的山体都是形状独特、肌理清晰。岩石色彩绚烂,呈暗红、橘黄、淡紫、粉红各种颜色,在阳光的映衬下,流光溢彩,变幻无常。
Gorge deep 2000 ~ 3000 meters, steep valley wall, almost vertical with the ground into the ground, dangerous, difficult to climb, daunting.The mountains in the valley are unique in shape and clear in texture.Rocky colors, dark red, orange, purple, pink in various colors, against the background of the sun, Ambilight, fickleness.


锡安山国家公园是一个巨大的盆地,也有一些沙漠,属于美国科罗拉多州高原。这里其实是被东面的落基山脉和西面的内华达山脉夹在中间的一个盆地,总面积约有50万平方公里。我们只是在峡谷间穿行了一段。
Zion Mountain National Park is a huge basin, there are also some deserts, belonging to the Colorado Plateau.It is actually a basin sandwiched by the Rocky Mountains in the east and the Sierra Nevada in the west, with a total area of ​​about 500,000 square kilometers.We just walked through the canyon for some time.


峡谷内到处可见茂密的树林,潺潺溪流以及高山怪石,非常适合爱徒步的人寻幽访胜。路一转,山一回,洞天之后,自是另一番光景。我们没有足够的时间在里面流连忘返,但遇到傍晚时分有质感的光色,也算难得了。
Lush forests, gurgling streams and rugged rocks are found in the canyon, ideal for those who love trekking.Turn the road, the mountain back, after the cave, is another scene.We do not have enough time to indulge in it, but in the evening there is texture of the light color, is also considered rare.


名字锡安(Zion)指的是犹太人的天堂,但是这个公园却与印地安有深厚渊源。锡安峡谷向来是印地安人的圣地,是他们祭神的地方。天色稍暗后的感觉也真的很肃穆。初夏的锡安气温虽高,却不觉闷热。见到有一些背包的健行者在林间水边漫游,与古老的印地安之灵一同分享山水的秀气。
The name zion refers to the Jewish paradise, but the park has deep roots in the country.Zion Canyon has always been the holy site of Indians, is where they worship God.The feeling of a little dark after the sky is really very solemn.Zion summer high temperature, but do not feel hot stuffy.I saw some backpackers hiker roaming the waterfront in the forest, with the ancient Indian spirit to share the delicate scenery.


1872年,几位探险者对锡安山峡谷进行了地质勘测,并命名了几种地貌。后来又有人进行了大范围的区域制图。正是他们生动的报告、照片和画卷,引起了人们对锡安山的关注。1903年,有画家重现了峡谷内的风景,并在圣路易斯世界展览会上展出了他的作品。观众们怀疑如此奇伟的景观是否存在。由于人们的关注,1919年国会宣布建立锡安山国家公园。
In 1872, several explorers conducted a geological survey of the Zion Canyon and named several landscapes.Someone later conducted a large area charting.It is their vivid reports, photos and pictures that draw the attention of Mount Zion.In 1903, some painters recreated the canyon's landscape and exhibited his work at the St. Louis World's Fair.Spectators wonder if such a marvelous landscape exists.Due to the concern of people, in 1919 Parliament declared the establishment of Mount Zion National Park.


茂密的树林,潺潺的溪流,红色的岩石,每次峰迴路转都别有洞天。
夕阳西斜,两旁高山被染成一片瑰丽金红,更是不该错过的惊艳。
Lush forests, gurgling streams, red rocks, every time the peak changes are quite different.Sunset west slope, both sides of the mountain was dyed a magnificent gold and red, but also should not miss the stunning.


锡安山国家公园近600平方公里范围内遍布著沙漠盆地,高山峻岭,河流湖泊,峡谷深壑,森林植被,奇石怪岩,瀑布溪水,以及各类珍稀的动植物,可以说科罗拉多高原的各种景观几乎应有尽有,摄影者只恨时光流转太快。
Zion Mountain National Park, nearly 600 square kilometers within the scope of the desert basin, mountains, rivers and lakes, gorge deep valleys, forest vegetation, rock strange waterfalls, stream waterfalls, and a variety of rare plants and animals, can be said that the Colorado PlateauAlmost everything is available for all kinds of landscapes, photographers only hate time to move too fast.


守望到太阳落到山背后,回旗杆镇借宿。
Watching the sun fall behind the mountain back to flagpole town accommodation.


翌日又是一个大晴天。早早到了科罗拉多河上的鲍威尔湖,以早年来这里探索的美国独臂将军约翰•卫斯理•鲍威尔命名。筑坝截流形成的蓝色湖泊,跨越犹他州与亚利桑那州。格兰水坝阻断了科罗拉多河的河水,上游成了鲍威尔湖,下游是科罗拉多河的格兰峡谷。
The next day is another sunny day.Early to the Lake Powell on the Colorado River, named after John Wesley Powell, a U.S. uniformed general who was explored here in the early years.Dammed by the closure of the Blue Lake, spanning Utah and Arizona.The Glen Dam blocks the water of the Colorado River, which becomes Lake Powell upstream and the Grand Canyon downstream of the Colorado River.


鲍威尔湖的修葺史几乎就是这个地区的近代史,它能够唤起西部人和当地土著对于十九世纪欧洲殖民者对这里无情的掠夺的记忆。在这片土地成为广阔平静的湖面之前,它是属于纳瓦霍印第安人的,他们被迫用这片肥沃的土地交换犹他州南部的相同大小的土地,但是那里的土地几乎不能用来耕种。
The history of Lake Powell's repair is almost a modern history of the region, evoking the memory of the West and native Aborigines of the merciless plunder of the nineteenth-century European settlers here.It belonged to the Navajo Indian until it became a vast, calm lake, forced to exchange the fertile land for the same size of land in southern Utah, but the land there was hardly available for cultivation.


这里有各种红色砂岩、石拱、峡谷和万面碧波。早在1972年鲍威尔湖就建立了水上休闲娱乐中心,成为美国西南部的主要国家度假区。我们只是走过路过,远望一会儿而已。
There are all kinds of red sandstone, stone arch, canyon and Bibo.As early as 1972 Lake Powell has established a water recreation center, becoming the major national resort in the southwestern United States.We just passed by, looking afar for a while.


我们现在就来到了纳瓦霍印第安人的羚羊峡谷。看到一些旅游宣传资料上特意说明,羚羊峡谷是“摄影师梦想的天堂”。位于美国亚利桑那州的羚羊峡谷,是北美印地安人最大部落Navajo人的属地。据说是当地印第安酋长静思冥想、与天神对话的所在。
We are now in the Antelope Canyon of Navajo Indians.See some travel promotional materials specifically stated that the Antelope Canyon is "a photographer dream paradise."Antelope Canyon, located in Arizona, USA, is the home of the navajo, the largest tribe of North American Indians.It is said to be the place where the local Indian chief meditates and talks with the gods.


羚羊峡谷是世界著名的狭缝型峡谷,诡异的形状是柔软的砂岩经过百万年的暴雨洪水和风的侵蚀。
Antelope Canyon is a world famous slit gorge, the weird shape is the soft sandstone after millions of years of storm floods and wind erosion.


光线完全是自然光通过岩石缝隙射入洞内的,因此光线时刻在变化,一年四季,甚至每天不同的时间不同的角度看到的光影色彩都不同。夏天偏桔红,冬天偏蓝紫。红沙岩石梦幻般的色彩、优美的线条、精细的纹理,让人惊叹大自然的美妙!
The light is completely natural light into the hole through the rock cracks, so the light moment in the change, all year round, even at different times each day to see different angles of light and color are different.Summer partial orange, blueish purple in winter.Red sand rock fantastic colors, beautiful lines, fine texture, amazing natural wonderful!


像是火红的绸缎当空飘舞。
Like a red satin flying in the sky.


近午时分的太阳成了挂在洞顶的明灯。
试图拍出直射到洞底的光柱,无奈身边游人挤挤挨挨,没有找到恰当的角度。
The sun near midday became the lantern hanging from the top of the cave.Trying to shoot straight to the hole of the light beam, helpless crowded crowded people around, did not find the right angle.


在羚羊谷里拍摄是件困难的事。人很拥挤,留给拍摄的空间很小;而大多数值得拍摄的景色都存在极大的光比,现有摄影器材的宽容度大多难以满足将高光和暗调完全记录的需要。
但也正是羚羊谷狭窄奇特的岩石,在阳光照射和映衬下形成的魔幻光影,给拍摄提供了足够的发挥和想象空间。
Filming in the Antelope Valley is a difficult undertaking.People are very crowded, leaving little room for photography; and most of the scenes are worth the shot there is a great light than the tolerance of the existing photographic equipment are mostly difficult to meet the high light and dark full recording needs.But it is also the strange rock antelope Canyon narrow, the sun and the background of the formation of magic light and shadow, to provide adequate shooting and imagination.


印第安导游说,这个像酋长。
同样的岩石,在不同的光照下会有不同的色彩与质感;相同的位置,不同的观察角度就会有图形的想象空间。更多的光影,需要每个人自己去发现和品味。
Indian tour guide said this is like chief.The same rock, in different lighting will have different colors and textures; the same location, different viewing angles will have a graphical imagination.More light and shadow, everyone needs to discover and taste.


参观羚羊谷须由当地印第安导游带领。正午时分游客集中,排队好久才得以入内。看来他们会说多国语言,对我们中国游客,全程挂在口头、发音比较标准的一句话就是“往前走”。于是我们只能听话地、不停步地往前走,当然可以趁他们“管束”稍有疏忽时,磨磨蹭蹭一步三回头,于是才有了这里呈现在这里的片子。对于喜欢捕捉光影的摄影爱好者来说,这短短的500多米的路程,显得既丰富又短暂。
Visit Antelope Canyon to be led by local Indian guides.Noon time tourists concentrated, queuing for a long time to be admitted.It seems that they can speak multiple languages, to our Chinese tourists, the whole sentence is verbally articulated and the standard pronunciation is "going forward."So we can only obediently, walked on without stopping, of course, can take advantage of their "oversight" a little negligence, rubbing rub three or three times, so there is the film here presented.For photographers who like to catch light and shadow, this short, 500-meter journey is both rich and short.


寂静的地缝里,可以真切体验永恒时光的不息。
看似渺无人烟的地缝里,流动着峡谷生命的年轮。是谁弄来了这些树枝?是洪水冲进来留下来的。流水是这个峡谷生命的缔造者。眼前砂岩上优美的线条,就是已经凝固的流水的旋律。在狭窄的谷底行走,仿佛探索在时间隧道。
还流动着变幻的光影。如果用延时摄影方法,可以清晰记录下时间流动的过程。可惜我没有时间尝试。但如果真的尝试了,也许我会晕眩,不是因为缺氧,而是因为这种从未体验过的流动的炫彩。
Silently in the seam, you can really experience the eternal timeless.Seemingly unattractive seams, the annual ring of the gorge life.Who got these branches?The flood rushed in to stay.Water is the creator of this gorge life.In front of the beautiful sandstone lines, is already solidified water melody.Walking in the narrow valley, as if exploring the tunnel in time.Also changing the flow of light and shadow.If you use time-lapse photography, you can clearly record the flow of time.Unfortunately, I do not have time to try.But if you really try, maybe I will be dizzy, not because of lack of oxygen, but because of this never-before-experienced flow of color.


明白了为什么当地印第安酋长会静坐在这里冥想:倾听大地深处的声音,仰望白云苍狗的变幻,在炫彩的时光里,听取神的喻示。
Understand why the local Indian chief meditates meditating here: Listen to the voice of the earth, look at the changes of Baiyun Canggou, and listen to God's metaphor in a colorful time.


地缝里摸索了一阵,终于重回地面。一时竟然恍惚觉得阳光赤裸单调、一览无余。
据说这里过去是叉角羚羊栖息处,峡谷里也常有羚羊漫步。好吧,我们也算做了一回羚羊。地上是赤裸裸的安静,地下是光与色的喧闹,我的脑子里,两个世界在冲突,好久才平静下来。
Groping in the seam for a while, and finally back to the ground.Moment of a moment, even feel sunshine bare and monotonous, glance.It is said here used to be the habitat of the pronghorn antelope, gorge is also often antelope walk.Well, we can count it as an antelope again.The ground is naked and quiet, the underground is a noisy light and color, my mind, the two worlds in conflict, calm down a long time.


钻出“地缝”,在佩吉镇上午餐后,向南沿89号公路行驶直奔马蹄湾。
这里也是一片硬朗火热的土地。
Drill out "Seams," and after lunch at Page Town head south on Route 89 to Horseshoe Bay.Here is also a tough land.


从停车场翻过红土山丘才可以看到马蹄湾的真容。阳光强烈,无遮无拦,空气干燥且非常“温暖”,该做些什么,相信你比我更懂。想拍照的,别忘了带上你的长枪短炮,这段路来回一次至少半小时。
Turn over the red soil from the parking lot to see the true content of Horseshoe Bay.Strong sunshine, no cover no block, the air was dry and very "warm", what to do, I believe you know better than me.Want to take pictures, do not forget to bring your long gun short cannon, this road back and forth at least half an hour.


与羚羊谷相距不远、坐落于亚利桑那州佩吉小镇附近的马蹄湾,是科罗拉多河在亚利桑那州境内的一段U形的河道。由于河湾环绕的巨岩形似马蹄,所以叫作“马蹄湾”,也有人叫它科罗拉多河的大拐弯。
A short distance from the Antelope Valley, on Horseshoe Bay, near Peggy, Arizona, is a U-shaped river in the Arizona state of the Colorado River.Because of the river surrounded by giant rock-like horseshoe, so called "Horseshoe Bay", some people call it the great turn of the Colorado River.


这个“大拐弯”只有一个观望点,但这个点的震撼程度,据说世界上难以找出第二个。要想拍下全景,就得贴近落差300多米的悬崖边。导游曾贴心地关照:千万注意安全,最好卧倒、趴下。不过,反正没见有人趴下。
The "Big Bend" has only one wait-and-see point, but the degree of shock at this point is said to be hard to find in the world.To take a panoramic view, you have to be close to the cliff more than 300 meters.Tour guide has caring attention: Do not pay attention to safety, the best lie down, get down.However, anyway, no one got down on the ground.


俯视科罗拉多河时,可以望到河面上苍蝇般小的船。这里的土质含大量的铁和锰金属,在阳光下闪耀着美丽的金属红色,而切出这个湾的科罗拉多河是翡翠般的绿色,红色的土和绿色的河交相辉映,非常赏心悦目。
Looking down the Colorado River, you can see the small flies on the river boat.The earth is rich in iron and manganese metal and shines with beautiful metallic red in the sunshine. The Colorado River cut out of the bay is emerald green with red earth and green river paving the way for each other.


斗胆小心翼翼、步步为营贴近悬崖边,镜头拉到16mm大广角收了全景,后撤时腿脚发软了。
270度拐弯的马蹄湾从形状上来看很完美,这个湾也够深够大,所以才够气势!河水围绕的孤岩陡立,仿佛诉说着千万年生命的不屈。
Carelessly cautious, step by step close to the cliff edge, the lens pulled wide-angle 16mm received the panoramic, legs and feet retracted soft.270-degree corner of the Horseshoe Bay from the shape point of view is perfect, this is enough deep enough for the Bay, it is enough momentum!River rock surrounded by solitary rock steeply, as if telling the unyielding life of thousands of years.


下午到了科罗拉多大峡谷南缘。车上瞌睡?没有没有,即便是在饱餐过的午后。这很大程度上是因为对“约会”这个大峡谷的期待。
科罗拉多高原抬升时,科罗拉多河及其支流切割层层沉积岩,由此形成了大峡谷。将近20亿年来的地质变迁史一览无余。薄薄的一层岩石,代表着上百万年的历史。
Afternoon to the southern rim of the Grand Canyon.Sleepy in the car?Nothing, even in the afternoon after a good meal.This is largely because of expectations of the Grand Canyon, dating.During the uplift of the Colorado Plateau, the Colorado River and its tributaries cut layers of sedimentary rocks, forming the Grand Canyon.Nearly 2 billion years of history of geological changes glance.A thin layer of rock, representing millions of years of history.


乍一看,大峡谷就像是巨大的桌子上被乱刀斩出的刀疤。
科罗拉多大峡谷全长446公里,最深处2133米,位于美国亚利桑那州西北部,科罗拉多高原西南部。科罗拉多高原为典型的“桌状高地”,也就是顶部平坦侧面陡峭的山。
At first glance, the Grand Canyon is like a scar thrown by a knife on a huge table.Colorado Grand Canyon is 446 kilometers in length, the deepest 2133 meters, located in the northwestern Arizona, the United States, southwest of the Colorado Plateau.The Colorado Plateau is a typical "table-top", the steep, flat top of the hill.


大峡谷是科罗拉多河的杰作。这条河发源于科罗拉多州的落基山脉,洪流奔泻,经怀俄明、科罗拉多、犹他、亚利桑那、内华达、新墨西哥及加利福尼亚7个州,进入墨西哥北部后,注入加利福尼亚湾。“科罗拉多”,在西班牙语中意为“红河”,这是由于河中夹带大量泥沙,河水常显红色。
The Grand Canyon is a masterpiece of the Colorado River.Originating in the Colorado's Rocky Mountains, the river floods and plunges into the Gulf of Mexico via Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico and California's seven states into northern Mexico."Colorado" means "Red River" in Spanish because of the large amount of sediment entrained in the river.


蜿蜒于谷底的科罗拉多河曲折幽深。这条河全长2334米,不到长江的40%,但整个大峡谷地段的河床比降为每千米150厘米,是密西西比河的25倍。这就造成了峡谷中部分地段河水激流奔腾的景观。如此,沿峡谷航行漂流便成为引人入胜的探险行动。
Meandering at the bottom of the Colorado River winding twists and turns.The river is 2334 meters in length, less than 40% of the Yangtze River, but the entire Grand Canyon area has a riverbed drop of 150 centimeters per kilometer, 25 times that of the Mississippi River.This created part of the canyon where the river rapids Pentium landscape.In this way, rafting along the canyon will become a fascinating adventure.


大峡谷山石多为红色,从谷底到顶部分布着从寒武纪到新生代各个时期的岩层,有徒步穿越大峡谷的大咖描述:最上面石头的是几百万年前的,接着往下走会发现石头和土的颜色也会变,这也是因为这个层次是几亿年前的,到了最低部科学家还找到25亿年前的石头。
Most of the Grand Canyon rocks are red, from the bottom to the top of distribution from the Cambrian to the Cenozoic rock formations, there are large caverns walking through the Grand Canyon Description: The top of the stone is millions of years ago, and then downWalking will find the color of the stones and earth will change, it is also because this level is hundreds of millions of years ago, to the lowest part of the scientists also found 2.5 billion years ago stone.


大峡谷的谷底深长干热,一派荒漠景观。在这里生长的生命倔强而任性。
Grand Canyon dry bottom of the valley, a desert landscape.Life here is stubborn and wayward.


空中老鹰在“巡航”,林中松鼠正窜行。小心头顶的鹰爪!
大峡谷国家公园也是许多动物的乐园。沙漠大盘羊生活在峡谷深处陡峭的绝壁上,从悬崖边缘观察到驯鹿的身影,山猫和山狗生活在这里出没,还有浣熊、海狸、花栗鼠、松鼠、野兔在此处定居。
Air Eagle in the "cruise", forest squirrels are channeling line.Watch out for the eagle's paw!Grand Canyon National Park is also a paradise for many animals.Sheeps and dogs live in the desert, as are raccoons, beavers, chipmunks, squirrels and hares. The desert sheep live on the steep cliffs in the depths of the canyon. The reindeer is observed from the edge of the cliff.


崖上人伫立。在宏大的场景里,渺小的人们是在感慨还是感伤呢?
念天地之悠悠,独怅然而涕下?
Cliff standing on the cliff.In a grand scene, small people are feeling or sentimental it?Read the world long, unique but runny?


但这里并非前无古人。据说早在5000年前,就有土著美洲印第安人在这里居住。
这些树,似乎在提示我们:土生土长的当地居民是如何在严酷的自然环境里一代又一代生存繁衍的。可是,他们面对的,仅仅是自然环境的严酷吗?
But here is not unprecedented.It is said that Native American Indians lived there 5000 years ago.These trees seem to be reminding us how indigenous natives survive and thrive in harsh natural environments from generation to generation.However, they face, is the harsh natural environment?


有下去徒步的冲动,但随即脑补:从北到南穿越大峡谷,这是一个38公里长、下1750米、上1500米的路程,干热、蛮荒、无助-----
荒漠何以炫彩?
也许是敬畏却不可亵玩,亲近但不能亲昵,欣赏而难以征服?
Go down the impulsive trek, but then brain up: From north to south across the Grand Canyon, which is a 38 km long, 1750 meters, on the 1500 meters away, hot and dry, helpless -----
How bright desert?
May be awe but may not be obscene play, close but not intimacy, appreciation and difficult to conquer?

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