For only three nights every year the sky and the rivers in Thailand twinkle with the light of thousands of candles. This is the famous Sky Lantern Festival, Loi Krathong (ลอยกระทง) in Thai.

It starts on the evening of the full moon in the 12th month of the traditional Thai lunar calendar. In 2018 the rivers and the sky in Asia will fill with lights again during 21-23 of November.

Bhumibol Adulyadej

November 2016. I was in Bangkok and the whole of Thailand was in mourning. Their beloved king, Rama IX - Bhumibol Adulyadej, has died after almost 70 years of reigning. Most of Thais, old or young, didn't remember the country before 1946, they did not know any 'other king'. Rama IX was really loved and they were all despairing.

Thailand under his care has changed from the backward Siam to one of the Asian tigers, a country both modern and friendly for business. Redbull, a Pad thai in your fastfood bar, The Hangover Part II, Muay Thai, relatively cheap holiday and ladyboys - all of these things are possible thanks to Rama IX... The Thai army and the oppressions of Thais did have a small role in this, but it's a different story.

After his death, one year of National Mourning was announced. During the time of my journey through Thailand and Cambodia, which coincided with the first month of mourning, many music festivals and other events were canceled and some parts of Grand Palace in Bangkok were closed, for obvious reasons. Most of Thai people were dressed in black clothes.

It was not a country I've seen before on postcards and youtube clips. All the better for me! The capital was crowded with people going to Grand Palace to honour the late king with the last bow. After a few days I left a sad Bangkok and went to the North of Thailand, to Chiang Mai.

Stay tuned for my next post about Chiang Mai and Loi Krathong Festival! @veggie-sloth