Morocco: Fez and Chefchaouen

Morocco is a dazzling country, travelling in it one can appreciate many experiences, from trekking the Atlas mountains, seeing the stars in the Sahara, haggling in ancient bazaars, relaxing in palatial riads, or simply taking it easy with a mint tea.

In this journey we barely scratched the surface of what Morocco has to offer.

The geography

Morocco is the westernmost frontier of the Arab world, sheltered from the rest of Africa by the mighty Sahara, and the towering Atlas Mountains. It is similar in size to California or Spain, with a population of 33 million, and a unique climate and history straddling the Mediterranean and Saharan Africa. The luscious northern highlands of Morocco are in stark contrast to the dunes and desert of the south.

Morocco has a fortunate location and close proximity to Europe, with Spain just 15 miles over the Strait of Gibraltar, as well as access to both the Mediterranean Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean.

🙋 Fun fact: France and Spain are the only other two countries bordering both the Mediterranean and Atlantic Oceans.

The history

Morocco is an intriguing blend of cultural influences primarily from Islamic, Berber, and European cultures. A rich civilisation and distinct culture has emerged through the successive migrations and invasions of people from all over the world.

1. Human activity in Morocco can be traced back between 90 and 125,000 years.
2. The predominant Berber population thought to be descendants of ancient Egyptians, established their tribal strongholds about 3,000 years ago.
3. From the east the Phonencians started to arrive in Morocco around 800 BC.
4. Carthaginians arrived around 200 BC, before falling to Roman rule in 146 BC.
5. As the Roman empire fell into decline Morocco was invaded by the Germanic Vandals tribe.
6. Arabs arrived in 700 AD bringing Islam, and a spate of ruling dynasties including: the Idrissids, the Almoravids, and the Almohads.
7. By the 15^th century Spain and Portugal began to intrude into Morocco, after having expelled the Moors from their own lands.
8. By the middle of the 19^th century Morocco's strategic importance had become evident to all of the European powers, and they engaged in a protracted struggle for possession of the country.
9. In 1911, France was formally acknowledged as protector of the greater part of the country, with Spain receiving a number of isolated regions.
10. French rule came to an end in 1953.
11. Today, the country is ruled by King Mohammed VI. He appears to be leading Morocco toward both long-term stability and a greater degree of economic prosperity.

🙋 Fun fact: Romans began making wine in Morocco over 2,000 years ago. This practice was abolished with the establishment of Islam in the 7th century AD. Under the French Protectorate, the Moroccan vineyards were revived and, in 1956, passed into state control. The Gris de Boulaouane, a rosé with an orange tint, is one of the best Moroccan wines.

Today, the complex history of Morocco is reflected by the varied ethnic groups, diverse architecture, unique cuisine, and multiple languages. The two official languages are Arabic and Amazigh (Berber), but French is also well known yet considered an aristocratic language. In the northern areas of Morocco Spanish is commonly spoken. English has also gained a presence in the country since it was introduced to the public school system in 2002.

The Western Sahara

Western Sahara is a disputed territory south of Morocco, slightly larger than the size of the United Kingdom. This area is some of the most arid, inhospitable, sparsely populated land on the planet.

Since the withdrawal of the colonial ruler Spain in 1975 the region has been claimed by Morocco, Mauritania, and the self-proclaimed Sahrwai Arab Democratic Republic. The Polisario Front arose to fight for independence and the establishment of the Sahrwai Arab Democratic Republic, they fought a bloody 16 year long war, ending in a UN coordinated cease-fire in 1991.

The cease-fire was agreed on the promise of a referendum for the Sahrwai people to determine their sovereignty. A referendum never happened and today the region is 80% controlled and administered by Morocco, with the Polisario Front controlling the remaining land. The area has a strong military presence and demonstrations criticising the Moroccan authorities occur regularly, with periodic ethnic tensions between the native Sahrawi population and Moroccan immigrants.

The Morocco controlled region of Western Sahara contains more than 72% of the worlds Phosphate. This phosphate is a key element in fertilisers and is therefore a vital global commodity. Fertilisers made from phosphate rich rocks are necessary to grow nearly every crop, without which humanity’s growing population would not be able to feed itself. As other country’s domestic reserves of phosphate are depleted the in the coming decades, this disputed region could be essential for meeting global demand.

🙋 Fun fact: the longest converyor belt in the world runs from the Bou Craa phosphate mine in Western Sahara 61 miles across the desert to Port El Aaiún, where massive ships transport its contents across the globe.

To find out more about Western Sahara phosphate production read this article, and to better understand the complex political situation in the Western Sahara watch this video.

The food

Moroccan cuisine is a delight! A mixture of Mediterranean, Arabic, Andalusian, and most importantly, Berber cuisine with a tiny European and Subsaharian influence. In the below image you can see a Chefchaouen goat's cheese salad, chickpea soup, a Moroccan dinner, vegetable tagine, mint tea, and tagines cooking.

Tagines are ubiquitous slow-cooked Moroccan stews, which take their name from the conical clay or ceramic dish that its cooked in.

🙋 Fun fact: the national drink tea was first introduced to Morocco in 1854 when blockaded British merchants uploaded large quantities of tea at major Moroccan ports. Thé à la Menthe (Green Mint Tea) is Chinese green tea brewed with a handful of mint leaves and liberally loaded with sugar.

Fez

Fez is an ancient walled city founded by Idris I in 789. The central medina area is a UNESCOworld heritage site of narrow maze like alleys jam packed with small shops and traders. Walking around the medina is enthralling and sometimes overwhelming. Yet, there are plenty of peaceful rooftop cafes and relaxing restaurants to slip into, of which cafe clock comes highly recommended (the date smoothie is highly recommended).

🙋 Fun fact: Fez el-bali (Old Fez) is the world’s largest active medieval city and car free zone.

There are also some unique accommodation options available in Fez such as staying in Palais El Mokri. A crumbling yet magnificent palace still in the family of Muhammad al-Muqri.

Chefchaouen

The wonderful mountainous city of Chefchaouen in the northern part of Morocco was founded in 1471 as a fortress city to defend against Portuguese invasions.

Almost every building is painted blue with theories abounding as to the reason for this. Some say it to keep mosquito's away, whilst others say that Jews when fleeing Hitler in the 1930s introduced it as a reminder of sky, heaven and leading a spiritual life.

🙋 Fun fact: a popular garment amoungst Berber's of the Atlas mountains is the djellaba. A long cotton or woolen hooded robe. Traditionally the colour of a djellaba indicates the marital status of the wearer, with light colours for married people.

Chefchaouen is a very refreshing and relaxing place to spend some time enjoying the fine mountain air and pleasant scenery. There are also some wonderful handicraft shops and handmade carpets to purchase.

Final words

Morocco is absolutely stupendous and has much to explore and experience. If you are lucky enough to visit the best advice I can pass on is wherever you go remember to 'notice the patterns'.