Big Tubes at El Malpais Nat. Monument, New Mexico

Located in central western New Mexico about an hour west of Albuquerque, El Malpais (pronounced mal-pie-EES) is Spanish for The Badlands. The region is home to the Zuni-Bandera Volcanic Field, where five lava flows lie in a rugged, roiling sea of petrified basalt across some 100,000 acres, up to 475 feet thick in some places. Around 3,00 years ago, one of the world's most pristine lava flows was laid down, which combined with the older flows dating back over a hundred thousand years, form a 17 mile network of underground lava tubes. Surrounding this network, which is the longest in the US, rise the cinder cones from 30 much more ancient volcanoes.

The Big Tubes area features several caves which are accessed via a short, 1/2 to 1.5 mile hike over rough lava terrain, including smooth pahoehoe and chunky a’a. Since paths are impossible to see over the uneven lava field, you have to keep a sharp eye out for the many cairs, or stacked rock piles that mark the trail through twisted juniper and ponderosa pines which grow out of the basalt. These trees are small, but they are deceptively old, some of them standing for centuries before the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. One tree in El Malpais has been around since around 700 A.D. and is the oldest Douglas Fir in North America.

Big Skylight is one of the caves found along the Big Tubes trail. This cave is immense, featuring lava benches and moss gardens, and requires a little bit of climbing to reach. We had our toddler with us, so we weren't able to explore the caves on this trip, but plan to go back soon. Giant Ice Cave is another popular lava tube, featuring a year-round ice room and ice columns during winter and spring. To reach most of the caves here requires going over several cool lava bridges that stretch over this otherworldly landscape.

Interesting geological features and ice formations can be found inside the lava tubes, as long as you pick up a free caving permit and bring the right equipment (flashlights, rope). Permits can be had at the El Malpais Visitor Center and sometimes at the Information Center. To prevent the spread of white-nose syndrome in bats, any cave gear used in a WNS-affected state may not be used in any cave in New Mexico. WNS is a devastating disease caused by a fungus which has killed millions of bats in the US. It can severely dehydrate them, and causes victims to wake up during hibernation, leading to starvation.

To reach the Big Tubes Parking Area from Highway 53, take Cibola County Road 42 (unpaved) south to NPS Road 300. After leaving Hwy 53, the 8 mile road to the Big Tubes area is unpaved and can be impassible after rain or snow, so a high clearance vehicles may be needed.

Be sure to wear sturdy boots, as the lava can be rough on shoes as well as ankles. I know some people bring dogs, but it is not recommended, as the rocks can cut up a dog's feet, not to mention bike tires. When we went (end of August) there was absolutely no-one around. We didn't see anyone on the road even, and had the whole place to ourselves. There are picnic tables and charcoal grills around, and while you can't camp right at the parking area, you can primitive camp anywhere else.