Snow-Filled Mountain Climb Up Bukhansan Seoul (북한산)

I've always set my sights on mountains when I came to Korea, with the first being Bukhansan Seoul. When I booked the flights, I was too awestruck at the thought of climbing viewpoints covered in white, puffy snow. Then when I arrived, I forgot about how cold it would actually be. 'Freezing ice' is a more fitting phrase of just how chilly it was. But that did not stop me climbing Seoul's highest mountain. Nor did the flu. Nor not having any climbing shoes or spikes. Yep. what a fun adventure.

Bukhansan Seoul (북한산)

• Baegundae Peak 836m
• Time 5.5 hours in snow season
• Tallest mountain in Seoul
• Note caution with hiking boots
• Distance approx. 5km
• Month of Hike Early January
• Temperature -15 at peak
• Difficulty Moderate in Winter

Climbing with Grit

There are 3 mountain peaks in Bukhsan National park - Baegundae (백운대)being the highest at 836m, Insubong (인수봉) at 810m, and Mangyeongdae (만경대) 787m. I had my eyes fixed on Baegundae Peak and it is worth it, though Insubong was looking photogenic on my way down.

836m may not seem high, but for me, my first solo mountain climb at Bukhansan means a lot to me. Even more when I think about the circumstances as I threw myself up the mountain. I took off my mask that had been protecting my face from the battering cold winds at -15 degrees. The one picture I had taken for me right at the peak had to be the V-pose. Not surprising and unapologetic.

But none of that mattered as I mentally pushed myself after New Year in Seoul to climb. The sunshine breaking through streaky branches of trees, powder snow and invisible ice, mixing comfort and dangers along the route. I feel alive when I'm on top of viewpoints with nothing but beautiful landscapes that go as far as the eyes can see. Whether it's the first or 20th climb up a mountain, Bukhansan is a scenic trail that offers a good workout and peak reward, heightened with care and caution in the winter times.

Reaching Bukhansan

There are multiple entrances to Bukhansan, along the north, south, east and west entrances. I opted to go from the west entrance which is a longer route and follows to the east exit. It's pretty much an all-day trek while the sun is out and so, I set out early morning (9am). I took the bus from Sinchon since the nearest metro station is Gupabal with a long walk still to go from there. I got off along Bukhansan-ro road before it turned towards the station, making for a shorter walk, albeit still 20-30 minutes to go. I do recommend the buses from Seoul which are more convenient for this entrance. I was in transit for close to an hour since there are a lot of stops outwards from Seoul city though.

Bukhansan National Park have several outfit stores and restaurants lined up in case you need anything. For me? I bought 2 extra bottles of water, just in case. I took my medicine with me since I was still recovering from the flu at the time. No biggie.

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From West to East

With several trails at the end of this road, I decided on the path straight ahead that followed along the river-turned-ice. I do prefer the snow view to climb during snow season. The white, blanketing snow just adds an extra layer of appreciation for me.

Throughout the route, there are maintained pathways with wooden or metal structures, and grippy steps to help along the way. Most of the time, it's worn trails to guide you. And at the top, you'll depend heavily on the rails and poles, even with climbing boots or spikes.

Ah yes, I did forget to mention - I didn't bring climbing shoes. The ones with spikes on the bottom or more geared to give you better grip and stability in these sort of conditions. Well, more specifically I didn't have any, since I was travelling minimally. Just me and my hiking boots. Least to say, I made it though without any harm and added a little bit of unnecessary spice to the experience, but I enjoyed it a lot. Like always, safety first, so if you're thinking of going in the winter, either having climbing shoes that cope with the snow or spike attachments that wrap around and under the outsole of your shoes.

There are several stationed checkpoints that give shelter should you come across bad weather to stay dry, or if you simply want to have a break. I came across one mid-way from Baegundae Peak then none for the rest of the way. The route had a nice mix of terrain, heights and paths to walk through, opening up for check-in views or mountains over the horizon.

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Temples, Shrines and Landmarks

I really enjoyed the scenery, coming across traditional structures, temples and shrines that are worth visiting if you factor them in the time. They would warrant another visit, with climbs to the other two peaks in Bukhansan Seoul.

Trails followed the terrain, often hiking up and down. Going down needs a bit of caution (remember I have hiking shoes), so I normally hold onto walls and take steps down. There are also uneven parts completely covered in snow that I double check how deep it is. So just be careful, but nothing of concern. Do glance over the walls at this part, with a vantage point at the top to see a sweeping landscape view of Seoul.

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Scenic Altitude

As I gained altitude, that's when the scenic views really started to kick in. I have big love for landscapes, so views like these get me excited. I stop every few moments turning back, looking around. And then I soak in all the views from here and snap away. I can't share all of my photographs because it'll get too big, but hopefully the highlights show the beauty en route to Baegundae Peak.

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The acute climb

I'm very close to the Baegundae Peak now. From here on, I became just a little bit more cautious. At this point, there were people at this intersection coming from different hiking routes.

Climbing shoes and spikes play a big part here (which I don't have), for extra traction and grip. The climbing route had ice that make it super slippery. I depended a lot on the ropes to pull my weight up since I had little grip otherwise. The poles acted as resting points for my feet if I wanted to stop and absorb the city view of Seoul behind.

Wow.

Have a look for yourself from Bukhansan Seoul.

The wind became stronger and the bitter chills even cooler as we reached over 800m. But the view was stunning. I was now climbing the boulder rocks at 30 degrees and steeper - at one point, I had my body near sideways to get better footing and leverage. Any remote chance of my foot overstepping into icy territory and I could feel my feet cave underneath me. I took my time hoisting myself up with my upper body strength. Luckily, with no one tried to come down to complicate things.

The top part of this was drier which made it easier to climb the remaining rocks which was a relief. I did enjoy that sense of uneasiness and caution however (is that a good thing?). My hiking shoes went sledging along the sludgy snow before making the final push to the top. Layers of built-up snow and the ropes disappearing over the horizon had me excited for what was at the top...

It's truly special.

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Baegundae Peak

Partially breath-taking because of the view, partially breath-taking because of my gasp for air, it's a stunning view nonetheless. The breadth of Seoul city in full, uninterrupted display to appreciate. Coming here in the winter for a snow view is definitely worth it. People ate heir lunch as it past 1pm on the smooth, over-reaching boulder I had seen below. It wasn't safe for me since my hiking shoes had no grip with no barriers, so I didn't go there. But, I did stay at the top with the Korean flag waving in the wind by the stone I V-posed with earlier.

I spent around 30 minutes adoring the sights and taking some shots before the chills started getting to me as I stopped moving. A drink of one bottle and bite of my kimbap I bought earlier that morning and I was back on the move.

Chasing the Light

I headed for the nearest exit to Bukhansan Seoul, which was just south-east of Baegundae Peak. In January, the sunsets around 5:30pm so it's always good to start earlier. Before that however, the mountain hills and forest foliage lower the amount of light coming in, making it darker to trek through. Going down was especially tricky as rocks and steps were iced-over.

Leapfrogging from one stone to the next that had dry patches. Not exactly your typical stroll but hey-ho it nearly worked. 'Nearly?' you say. Yes, nearly. I slipped down the set of steps, sliding down at growing pace for 10m before I could stop myself with my feet against a rock. No grip with my gloves on... it was like going down a slide. It didn't hurt much, but I became very careful. So yeah, climbing shoes. It was quite fun though as I laughed after (again, a good thing?).

Walking further and I past Insubong, the 2nd highest peak in Bukhansan. A beautiful peak isn't she? (I'm claiming gender as I see fit). Would like to see what the view is like up there next time.

The Journey Home

The steep trail levelled-off, with flat paths propping up, meaning I was nearly there. The sun now visible in the sky as the mountains faded further away from me, and the rays shining the trail to unearth the soil below.

Not long beyond this view, I reached a set of wooden stairs which lead me down to the main road back to civilisation... I finished my climb to Bukhansan Seoul.

It was a short walk before I reached the rows of restaurants, mountain climbing shops and usual Seoul lifestyle in the outer region. A few hours ago I stood atop the highest mountain peak near Seoul, gazing at the capital , reflecting on my appreciation of being here.

I had done it. My first solo climb up a mountain. I made it in good time as the sun already fades behind the mountains. Further down the road leads to Bukhansan Ui station where I took the Ui-Sinseol Light Rail Transit line (LRT) back into the heart of Seoul. Low on T-money balance, a pharmacy store just to the right of the station entrance is a good place to top up

During the hour transit back to Hongdae, I relived the scenic pulsation of awe I had at the top of Baegundae Peak. I felt great achievement mentally spurring myself along to climb while still recovering from the flu, climbing up in the ridiculously cold weather alone, embracing the snow and ice during my climb atop, and more importantly, coming down in one piece. I remember it all so vividly; they are moments I'll reflect back on for many years to come.

Would I go back to Bukhansan Seoul? Yes. Would I go back in the snow? Yes. Would I go back in hiking shoes? Yes.... maybe.

This is my own written article originally published on my website at One Tech Traveller

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