Wonderful views from Balmhorn

Outline

Being a large peak, the Balmhorn lies above Lotschenpass and Gemmipass in the western side of Bernese Alps. The north side of the peak contains a large glacier. The eastern and northeastern of the peak is made of rock. To the southeast, a long snow and rock ridge connect the Balmhorn to the Rinderhorn. To the west, connection is made between the Balmhorn and Altels by an elegant narrow ridge.  

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Image credit Balmhorn

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Melchior Anderegg, Jakob, Frank, Horace and Lucy Walker were the first people who climbed the Balmhorn through the Zackengrat on 21st July 1864.

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Image credit Emerging into the sun on the start of the summit ridge

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How to arrive there

To arrive in the north side of the peak, you will have to mount from the Balmhorn Hut that is accessible from the town of Kandersteg through the Gasterntal. You will have to travel three hour hike from town, or two hours from the closest road access.

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Image credit Wonderful view of Balmhorn; Altels und Rinderhorn

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You can mount the Zackengrat from Berghotel Schwarenbach which can be accessed from Leukerbad or Kandersteg. People can reach the southern part through Gemmipass from Leukerbad which is known as the shortest approach. From the north side, one can either mount or go via lift from Kandersteg. It will take approximately two hours from the top of the Sunnbuel Lift.

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Image credit Balmhorn

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People can mount the Gitzigrat from the Lotchenpass Hut which is easily accessible from the Lotchental or you can reach there from Kandersteg, but you will have to face more trouble.

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Image credit GORETEX BALMHORN_3 GORETEX BALMHORN

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How many routes are on the Balmhorn

1) SW Ridge or Zackengrat, WS

If you go through this rout, it will take approximately 5 hours from Berghotel Schwarenbach. One can reach the ridge by mounting the steep slope which starts from the head of the Schwarz Glacier to Zackenpass. 

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Image credit Zackengrat

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First climb: Melchior Anderegg with Frank and Jakob, Lucy Walker and Horace on 21st July, 1864.

2) North Face, S

It is accessible from the Balmhorn Hut, and you need approximately 4 to 6 hours to reach there. This glacier climb is long and very steep with several options. The way includes overcoming steep section which differs from 60 to 90 degrees. 

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Image credit Lötschenpas Hut

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First climb: Edgar Seiler and Pierre Desaules on 14th July 1935.

3) Northeast Ridge or Wildelsiggrat, ZS

To reach Northeast Ridge, you need about 5 to 7 hours from the Balmhorn Hut. The way to ridge is very steep and it is climbed along the side of the north face and and contains a mixture ice, snow and slightly poor rock with places of III.

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Image credit Berghotel Schwarenbach

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First mount: Hans Bichly, P. & A. Muller, and Herman Seller on 12th July 1901.

4) Southeast Ridge or Gitzigrat, ZS

It takes about 6 hours from the Lotchenpass Hut. 

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Image credit Gitzigrat

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First Climb: Christian & Hans Hari, Heinrich Dubi, and Louis Liechti on 29th July, 1886.

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Image credit specialties of Balmhorn Restaurant

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