Tips on exploring Gran Canaria. Part I - Mogan.

Even though this island has been used, abused, and then forgotten by the hordes of tourists that used to visit it, Gran Canaria is still a beautiful place that rests in the hearts of those who return to the island year after year. You see, when I was little, this place was buzzing with life, during the day and night. It was Ibiza of the last decade. Now a little bit laid back and quieter, with run down homes all over the island, there are still gems to be found. A lot of them. And most, far away from the tourists.

But today I want to show you a place known to visitors, still beautiful, and so different from the rest of the island. Puerto de Mogan. Or just Mogan, if you venture out of the port. This place is referred to as little Venice. And even though the term is made more to attract tourists, this is undoubtedly a very spectacular place that does encompass the charm of the Gondola city. With alluring architecture and that ocean blue water, this is where people go for the weekly market, cute house sightseeing, and enjoyable restaurants.

My journey here starts in the port. I have mentioned this before but I will again. I was on holiday, to the Canary Islands, at the beginning of June this year (very recently). Even though I had not planned to travel much due to financial circumstances, I still got to go as my aunt, who lives on the Island for almost 20 years, bought my flight tickets for my Birthday. I also stayed at her place and was fed by her so you can imagine that my expenses were minimal. In fact, I know exactly how much I spent, 90 euros, for train tickets to and back from the airport, and my lenses (I used to live in Gran Canaria as well and they have all my data there at the opticians)

That being said, you will need some money to go to this holiday Island. But it will still probably be cheaper than other tropical destinations. The flight tickets can be as low in prices as 100 euros (together, there and back) from all of the Europe. The food is not very pricey, you can get an entrecote for 13 euros as well as 30. Or fish for 10 euros as well as 50. The issue might be with the place you stay in. As of last year, the apartment prices skyrocketed. For properties, short-term, and long-term rentals. If you owned a property on the island from a couple of years ago and sold it now, you would have a hefty sum on your hands. To put this in perspective, an apartment you paid 650 euro per month last year is worth 950 euro today.

There are still places to stay. For example, through Airbnb. Yes, they are more expensive than they used to be but there are some things that you might really consider if you are a travel lover. You see these boats? Well, you probably do. They are hard to ignore. There are boat rentals on Airbnb. You can stay in the place if you feel adventurous. Most boats come equipped with a captain so there is less privacy. But if you are looking hard enough, you can find a boat that you will be left alone on. You will not be allowed to sail it, obviously. It will stay in the harbor or right next to it. Also, you might be able to get the owner to take you out in the ocean for a tour one day. That is going to be extra(in expenses) but it is totally worth it as, there are a lot of dolphins in the ocean and if you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of them!

You can see fish in the water.

How do I know all of this? I have done most of it. My aunt works with a dolphin tour group and her boyfriend is fixing up his own yacht to rent out for people. It is a big and beautiful thing that can accommodate a family of four and has all the necessities. I was in Gran Canaria when they were fixing up the boat and it looked majestic. Next time, I am sure I will get to have a sail in it! Plus, I have no fear that it will sink as my aunt's boyfriend is a licensed captain that works on ocean ferries. Additionally, he is a licensed diving instructor. Boy, he can hold his breath for long underwater!

Here, about those dolphins... There are multiple dolphin tours in different cities available for you to choose from. This time we went from Puerto de Mogan instead of Puerto Rico. These are wild creatures so, no, you can not swim with them. That is the most common question that we get asked. There is not a place in Gran Canaria where you can swim with the dolphins. And, isn't it better? When the creatures can live in the wilderness and enjoy their jumps? Plus, you never know what type of dolphin you are going to catch a glimpse or a show of. It is an adventure into the unknown, into the ocean.

The thing about dolphins is, they are usually in hordes but some are smaller than others. They usually jump right next to the ship but sometimes they do not. They didn't with us, on my last ride, as they were mating. Yep, they did the nasty. :D Also, there are more waves the further out you go in the ocean. On our ride, we went out and did not find anything. But, as we came back, close to the harbor, we were informed by another ship that there were dolphins! That is what the ships do, they tell each other about the swimmers and a huge network of seamen is built.

The things to consider when you are thinking of taking the trip (I helped out my aunt in the biz for a couple of months so I actually know a thing or two about this). Taking a dolphin tour, you will see the majestic creatures 90% of the time (except in November, the weather is pain and the dolphins are far out in the ocean). That being said, do not leave the tour to the last day as the companies have a guarantee: If you do not see the dolphins or whales, you go again, for free. Sometimes the weather is shit. Other times the dolphins are just not there. But, to make sure you see the creatures, go on the trip early on. It is a two and a half hour trip and you can take food with you on the ship. If you are attentive and lucky, you might even see a whale!

Take a jacket as it gets windy out in the open. Yes, the ships have closed spaces but you really do not want to miss the ocean. If you feel like that good ol' seasickness is coming at you, look in front of the ship and on the horizon, not on the waves! Take suncream. The ocean water on your skin will attract those sun rays. If you have small children, take a stroller, it is allowed and encouraged on the ship. Finally, prices. If you stay in Maspalomas, you will be picked up from your hotel or Airbnb, the prices will be increased for the drop-off. If you are in Mogan or Puerto Rico, the tickets should be 25 euros. If you are lucky and the salesperson has a small number of customers, you might get on for 20 euros. Kids are 15 euros. If you have six-year-olds, tell they are 4, kids under that age go for free. Some vendors will let on your 7year-old for free if they are in a good mood and you seem nice.

There used to be bigger competition amongst vendors but now, a boat was taken out from the water and most sellers do not try to grab your attention. That means that finding that 20 euro ticket might be harder. Also, if you try to drag the price down, you are most likely going to get sent on your way. But if you seem uncertain of going and act polite, you might just get those cheaper tickets. Also, groups get treated better as they bring in more money. 6 people plus children will get on cheaper than a family of four. So find a stranger, team up, and get those discounted tickets!

The yellow submarine*. This is the most popular attraction in all of the ports of Gran Canaria. It is also quite pricey (35 euro for 45 minutes) and not really that impressive. I will tell you about it in another post as I was on the thing and have some photos.

You have arrived in Mogan either by a ferry that goes from multiple locations, a bus that goes everywhere, and is cheap, your car rental or your tour group. When you come for the dolphin tour, you have around an hour to walk around the small town. It might be enough for those who want to snap some quick photos but if you are into food, shopping in brand stores, or the local beach that is actually somewhat secure, this is the place to spend a while in. But do not try to snorkel, the water here is not that crystal. There are better snorkeling places (again, tell you later about them).

The second image is completely bare. Yes, the sky is so blue in Gran Canaria

The very curious thing about Gran Canaria is that while it was sunny in Mogan and all of the South Coast, the capital, Las Pama had rain. Well, I can not say that but that is what happens most of the time. While Maspalomas, Puerto Rico and Mogan are always sunny, Las Palmas, that is 70 km away, is oftentimes cloudy and rainy. The one time I went there while on my last trip, that was the reality(also when I lived on the island). While I left home in shorts, I wished I had taken pants to the big city. Next to that, Las Palmas looks different from any other town, it is more like a big city in Europe than on a tropical Island.

Mogan, however, is filled with colorful flowers, tiny restaurants serving Tapas, and fun houses that sell for ridiculous prices. It is the place to go if you have seen everything else on the Island. Even though I doubt you have, I lived there for a year and the mountain regions are still a mystery to me. The architecture in Mogan is posher than in Maspalomas. It is smaller than the big city, it has fewer tourists, but not little, and it is wonderful to visit and spend one day in. Look out for pickpockets, though! And people who try to stop you on the street and attract your attention(goes for every place in Gran Canaria). You might end up without your wallet! The illegal immigrants that come from Africa practice some shady business(not all but some). There are even government put signs, and I, myself, have encountered ladies that try to circle you and touch your hair, hands, or anything else to take your attention away from your bag.

Unedited but cropped

In last years the pickpocketing has subdued and tourists have become smarter. Also, the police look after the issue more attentively. When you encounter a situation like this, just ignore the people or talk in a stern voice. Do the second one if the women do not back off. Also, there is another thing to know about Mogan, and the island itself. If you are looking for a party, Maspalomas is where you should go. That is the only place that has somewhat bearable nightlife. Mogan is for families, elderly people, and couples in love and looking to spend the time together, without that crazy partying.

It is quiet and it has many hidden gems. From the trails that you can explore to the beach that is quite nice as the lifeguard is always present. Decent shops that have genuine brands and not just imitations of them. Restaurants that offer locally caught fish for reasonable prices, and water activities all around. It is a smaller town and if you want to explore more, I would suggest renting a car or staying somewhere else. Leave Mogan for visiting. Once or twice. Because it is worth it. There are no other places in Gran Canaria that look like this. I know I am repeating myself, but those arches filled with flowers and the cute houses alone are worth the visit.

Also, as I said, I lived on the island for a year and had not been to Mogan during that time. When I went there, it was something new that surprised me. It was different and so worth it!

The first day I went to Mogan, I was there early, around 11 AM, I think. The people were not yet walking around and it was quiet. After we came back from the dolphin tour with the Líneas Salmón ship (more expensive tour with a glass bottom) there were still not many people walking around. Most were laying on the beach or at their resorts. Tthe restaurants were just setting up as, in Gran Canaria, the hottest time is over only after 4 PM and that is when all the walking starts.

I mentioned that Gran Canaria has been used and abused, and left behind. It is not such a popular island anymore. Its golden years ended around 10 years ago. That is what makes this a perfect island. It is a little cheaper (but the prices are starting to rise again) and it is not crowded. If you are going on holiday to party, this would not be the wisest choice but if you are interested in trips and sightseeing as well as leisure by the pool or ocean, this is ideal. The island is dominated by older tourists and families. It is quite safe unless you wander into some dark corners of party districts (tell you about in another post).

You can go on some fishing trips, all-inclusive hotel eating rampages, and timid party boats. You can lay in the sun all your holiday and actually have a holiday, in silence and peace. It is mind and soul healing to come here for a week or two even though I would not suggest living here as summers get unbearable and Calima is an unwelcome guest. Calima is the sand that comes from Sahara. It carries over and there are days when you just breathe sand without really seeing it. Nobody feels comfortable during those days as the air becomes heavy and hot.

Right after the locals, the island is dominated by German, Swedish, and English guests. There are whole communities here, bungalow complexes where you will only find people speaking Swedish or German. A lot of stores are owned by foreigners, and the BIO product movement is just catching on. It was imported by those who came to live on the island thanks to its appeal and beauty. The life here is great if you love the weather, and most people in the coastal towns are tourists, except Arguineguín, that is a very local place. Newcomers are accepted as they bring money to the island and do not really bother the locals.

There are some things, like the price rise, that the tourists bring, but there are also jobs that need to be filled. Not all Canarians speak English, though and these jobs are often filled with visitors. It is a two-sided sword but I have not really encountered any issues on the island in that regard.

So, little Venice. Let me show you why Mogan is called that. A stray cat might be visible, they have an issue with that there (again, tell you later). Oh, and none of the followeing pictures are edited.

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Thank you for the read and visit Gran Canaria soon!
Have a great day, today, tomorrow, and forever!
Linda.