Why we love Granada, Nicaragua... a travel recommendation

"Aqui Fue Granada"...Translation: Here was Granada. This was what the retreating US mercenary William Walker left on a plaque as he lit the city on fire and made his escape to Lake Nicaragua from Central American Troops. 

Granada Nicaragua was established in 1524 and is one of the first cities in the Americas. It is the conservative stronghold of Nicaragua and is an important trading hub. It lies on the Northwest edge of lake Nicaragua, which is the largest lake in Central America and 19th largest lake in the world. Because of its trading importance, Granada was also a frequent target of Pirate of the Caribbean, Henry Morgan AKA Captain Morgan. He sneaked up the San Juan river in canoes, crossed the lake (no easy task...its windy and whips up some swells), and sacked the city three different times! The city was rebuilt each time back to the original colonial splendor. 

Then came William Wallace. In short, he was an American mercenary hired by rival city Leon to help defeat Granada in civil war. Wallace was successful and declared himself president in 1855 and his governance was recognized by the US in 1856. This was not to last long as Wallace became greedy and wanted all of Central America for himself. United Central American troops invaded Granada in late 1856 and as Wallace and his men escaped in heavy gunfire, they set the city on fire. "Here was Granada."

We visited Granada last week for our quarterly visa run out of Costa Rica. Usually we travel to the border, get our stamp, and turn around. This time, though, was special. We had my parents here from out of town and we wanted to show them the charming colonial city of Granada. From the Costa Rica border Granada is about an hour and a half car ride. Granada makes a great base to go to nearby attractions like the Massaya Volcano and Massaya market.

These days there is no civil war and the city is thriving with tourists that visit the many churches, restaurants, museums, and bars. It is fun just walking the streets and looking into the colonial houses. On the outside they are long walls painted bright colors with iron and wood doors. Inside are beautiful courtyards with gardens and pools lined with hundreds year old tile. Each is different and unique and many have been beautifully restored in the last 10 years. 

We stayed in a charming boutique hotel that was converted from a colonial home called, Casa San Francisco. It has 14 rooms, a restaurant/bar and a small swimming pool that stayed refreshingly cool during the hot Granada afternoons. 

The garden in the courtyard is full of pretty tropical plants and flowers. There is even a turtle cruising around. 

Each room is different and has lots of charm. The staff is friendly and the beds were comfortable. The free breakfast was awesome too. There were about 10 items to choose from ranging from continental to eggs with Gallo Pinto (beans and rice), pancakes and french toast, or fresh fruit. It was a deal at $50 a night in the off season. I would also highly recommend the happy hour in the bar at the hotel called Bocadillos. There are several drinks that are two for one. My wife's favorite is the Macua which is the national drink of  Nicaragua and made with white rum and fresh fruit juices, usually lemon and guava. Delish!! They also serve many tasty tapas plates like pulled pork, hummus, ribs...most are under $5.

Walking the town is a dream for photographers. The people look you in the eye and make for some great street photography shots. Plus the people you will come across are warm and friendly. The colonial architecture and the bright colors of the buildings make for some interesting shots with the volcano in the background. Inside the many cathedrals there are also photo opportunities. 

In central park there are dozens of horse drawn carriages lined up waiting to take you on a city tour. Its about $20 for 5 people to go around town for an hour. The guide will explain some of the colorful history of the city, show you Williams Walker's house (which is for rent incidentally) and the local cigar making factory. They will also drop you off at the lake to take a boat ride around the islets of Granada if you like. There are 365 of these little islands and many have homes on them as well as tropical birds and monkeys. Its worth the extra $35 or so to take the boat tour. 

If you haven't yet visited Nicaragua and Granada, I highly recommend that you spend at least two days in Granada. You wont be disappointed.

All photos original by me.