Greater Than a Tourist – Bologna, Emilia-Romagna Region, Italy: 50 Travel Tips from a Local
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Eat Pizza at a Pizzeria
So what would a trip to Italy be without pizza? Hardly a trip at all. Keep in mind that you rarely order pizza by the slice in Italy. When you eat pizza, you get the whole pie to yourself. It sounds a little intimidating at first, but somehow folks always manage to eat the whole thing! You’ve got plenty of options in Bologna, but the best by far is Bella Napoli, on Via San Felice. Don’t let the less-than-warm wait staff or the relatively small pizza put you off. That’s just the way the pizza is at Bella Napoli, and every bite is delicious. And a word to the wise for those of you who are just learning the language, “peperoni” means peppers. If you want a pepperoni pizza, you need to order “salame piccante.” I learned that the hard (funny) way! Oh, and don’t forget that you DON’T tip! Waiting table is a respected profession, and your bill will include a “coperta” for every person in your party.
Eat Like You’re in a Local’s Own Kitchen
Looking for a place to have a traditional meal out? There is no lack of options in Bologna, but I highly recommend the Bolognese cuisine at Trattoria del Ponte Lungo. The tortellini in brodo are delicious, but you might also be tempted by the tagliatelle con ragu. You take the same bus (13, 81, 87, 91) as you would take to get to the supermarket, and get off at the Ponte Lungo stop. They are open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, but their schedule can vary on weekends and holidays, so call ahead. And don’t forget that the dinner hour starts much later in Italy, say 7:00, so you won’t find them open before that. The atmosphere is casual, with family groups and after-work dinner parties equally welcome, and the rates are very reasonable. And if you find you’re at a loss as to how to proceed with all the wonderful choices on the menu, the wait staff are more than happy to help.
Enjoy Long Weekends in the Springtime
The Monday after Easter, or Pasquetta, is always a day off. The kids are off from school, and virtually everything is closed. This is true all over Italy (and many other places too, I’m sure.) But if you are lucky, you will find that Pasquetta falls closely to two other holidays which are near and dear to the Bolognese heart: Liberation Day on April 25, and Labor Day on May 1., known to one and all simply by their dates. April 25 commemorates the end of World War II and is particularly poignant to the Bolognesi not only because many of the older generation remember watching the liberating armies march through the city gates, but because the Resistance was very strong in this northern town, and the people suffered greatly because of it. May 1, is a holiday honoring the worker, and given Bologna’s history and politics over the years, Labor Day here will involve multiple rallies and marches for workers’ rights. People plan long weekends, or walks through town, and on these two holidays, you will get a real glimpse of Italians and the Bolognesi in particular celebrating who they are.